Has anyone have experience with new production Sophia Electric tubes with an Aegis? KT88, EL34 or 5U4G. I have a pair of KT88s which worked well on my old Cayin HA-6A but curious how they compare to NOS on this amp before I go down the rolling rabbit hole if I end up buying this 🤓

I asked ZMF support the same question regarding the sonic differences and got this reply. I'm still waiting for mine to ship so can't comment on my own experience. Of the two LTD woods, Cocobolo is the more dense wood and thus will have a shorter attack/decay time due to the sound being...

Just curious what would happen for someone who buys it from overseas direct from ZMF and there is no local dealer?

That's great to hear, thanks for clarifying!

A few posts with pics seem to show a lower output power for XLR vs RCA (max 1.8W vs 2.5W). I'm curious why this would be the case as I would have thought it'd be the other way around (e.g. Cayin HA-6A)

Has anyone compared an Atrium Closed in Queensland Maple to any other wood? Just curious what the sonic differences are and if it's similar to the generic differences between very hard and softer woods since it's on the softer side.

I've moved from a Cayin HA-6A with $$$ NOS tubes to an all Ferrum stack (Oor, Wandla, Hypsos) as I could never quite dial in the sound even with tube rolling. Plus it's half the desktop real estate when stacked. All the punch and slam from the SS Oor and a rich, DSD sound with a massive stage...

Sorry, I had a typo.. hottest to coldest I was told by support was Hypsos, Oor, Wandla. Technically you'd stack coldest to hottest, but I reversed Oor and Wandla and put feet in between for my own convenience. To be honest, Ferrum stated it didn't matter what order it was stacked.

I've put isolation feet between the Oor and Wandla (with Hypsos at the bottom) and don't have any issues with heat. I also turn it off the Oor and Wandla when not in use. This must be Ferrum's most asked question... their support told me it's not an issue, but stated that Hypsos, Oor then...

Looking at my invoice, I had to buy an extra cord. Hypsos had one cord, splitter had another, and I bought one to hook up the Wandla.

My general impression of the filters, and mind you they are all so close to each other and I'd be perfectly happy with any of the HQ ones, and it really comes down to personal preference and the music you listen to HQ-Apod - the most technically correct/analytical with the best sense of space...

I mostly use HQ-Gauss vs the HQ-Apod/HQ-Apod-MP filters for the richer, more dynamic/punchier sound. HQ-Short is a close second. I've been using Wandla in Analog mode with the Oor in bypass so I can use the remote control instead of reaching over my desk to change the volume control :beyersmile:

I used a 3 pin 3.5mm, but yea, moot with 1.2 so I've removed it.

With the 1.2 Firmware, it actually doesn't need a 3.5mm cable or triggers to be set. It looks like the Wandla will turn on from the Hypsos and splitter if the Wandla's Power-up mode setting is set to "Working".

I have the Oor and Wandla powering up from the Hypsos knob. A solid push will turn it on or off. - Hypsos: Trigger -> Out - Oor: left at XLR - Wandla: Trigger Detection -> In; PowerUp Mode-> Working (with 1.2 firmware) I have a 3.5mm cable from the Hypsos to the Wandla trigger ports.