Eternal overtime will do that. :-)

Yeah, the game just keeps going into overtime.

That is an amazing deal.

Have you tried them in your Airmid yet?

Yeah, I think that 55 lbs is the shipping weight. I don't mind the weight of the Aegis, but I'm always been of the mindset that transformers are the most important thing in an OTC design and, unfortunately, that means weight. OTL is a different beast, but that isn't great for driving planars...

That's perfectly fair. It sounds like it's not the right fit for you. I was just trying to make sure the correct info is out there as a 9 lb delta may make a difference to somebody else.

Just curious, what audio rack is that?

That is an amazing setup. I'm green with, er, Envy.

I'd be curious to see him try.

It would be more appropriate for "Britain's Got Too Much Time On Their Hands."

Not pushing you towards an Aegis, but just for sake of accuracy, the actual amp weighs about 46 lbs. I believe the 54-55 lb number comes from the weight of the amp in the shipping box, although I've personally only weighed the amp and not the amp + shipping ctn.

I used to work with a guy who could roughly guess the voltage left in a 9V by putting it on his tongue. He was an odd fellow. Probably spent too much time putting batteries on his tongue.

That whole album is very solid

I can certainly understand the stress involved in any failed transaction. I've definitely been on the downside of things before. I've had a couple of unfortunately large shipments overseas go completely missing. It was incredibly frustrating, but in the end, I took the loss . It's just not...

For the impressions, it's always better to go past the second bend. That's standard industry practice. As far as canal length, it greatly varies depending on manufacturer and individual biology. The primary reason to go with a longer canal is to avoid the occlusion effect. This is...

Is that really how most people feel? As both a seller and a buyer, I’ve always felt that the onus is on the seller to make sure it gets to the buyer safely. If it’s a valuable item, it’s insured, and any claims are made by the seller with the shipping company.

I'm just glad I bought a few pairs before this thread got cooking.

At this point, the RCAs 5691's are my preferred. I've switched to them in both my DIY Aegis and the ZMF Aegis.

There is going to be some resistance due to the wire in the leads. That's unavoidable. 0.6 ohms seems a bit high, but it depends on the gauge of the wire in the leads and how long they are.

If you are reading 0.6 ohms, then that's probably fine. I would hold one lead against the other and see what you measure. It's possible 0.6 ohms is the resistance of the leads themselves. And, not to be a downer, but I would read up a little bit on basic electronics before you actually start...

Do you have a multimeter? You can (and probably should) check continuity yourself, regardless of what Dave says. If you don't have a multimeter, might as well get one now as you'll need it to build the Aegis anyway.

Yeah, Brett Goldstein is great as Roy Kent. I like his film podcast as well.

I have tubes with broken centering pins that work just fine, but I always add guide pin adapters to prevent me from putting them in wrong. If you have a 3D printer (or a friend with one) you can just print one out. That's what I did. I can send you (or anybody else) the file if you'd like.

I liked this post, but ouch.

Ah, so that's where the old adage "never lick the anode cap" comes from.