[pjopek]

Hello everyone,
I have a newly purchased SU-6 and I want to ask.
Do I need to install the driver when using SU-6 in Windows 10 Pro?
And if so, what is the current working version of the driver? I currently have the SU-6 in plug'n'play mode.

My connection topology is:
Ludic Heimdall Netfilter G30 + SUPRA LoRad cable --> PC --> USB cable 2.0 A/B --> Singxer SU-6 DDC --> Coax cable SPDIF --> RME ADI-2 DAC FS - -> XLR cables --> Singxer SA-1 headphone amp --> balanced 4-pin XLR headphone cable --> HiFiMAN Arya Stealth headphones

Is there anyone here who also has a SU-6 connected to an RME ADI-2 DAC FS please?
Thank you.

 

[Ian S]

Do I need to install the driver when using SU-6 in Windows 10 Pro?
And if so, what is the current working version of the driver? I currently have the SU-6 in plug'n'play mode.

You probably don't want the current one.

I made a very welcome discovery.

My SU-6 had the problem of needing the USB lead unplugged and re-plugged every time the PC went into and out of sleep.

I had 5.12.0. I uninstalled that and installed the latest driver, 5.68.0, also had that problem. Then uninstalled those and installed the Singxer SU-1 driver 4.45.0 and now it works. Just as my SU-1 used to. Never needed to unplug that after sleep and now don't need with the SU-6.

 

[pjopek]

You probably don't want the current one.

I haven't installed any, that's why I'm asking. As it is written in the manual: 4. WINDOWS system needs to install the driver we provide, the latest version of WIN10 can be
used free of driver, but it is recommended to use the driver we provide.
And without the drivers, the SU-6 shows up normally in my audio device. RME then shows me the maximum transmission quality of 24bit/192kHz via coaxial cable.
Since I read that there are problems with those drivers, I prefer not to install.

 

[Xoverman]

@Xoverman

Regarding the other two 3045 for the USB area, from the photos I can't see exactly what you did.

Can you please explain.

For the 1.0 Volt:
Did you remove the remove that tiny 6 pin chip? yes
Did you remove that 3Ω3?
Where did you join the earth pin? ?
Did you buy a 1.0 V 3045 or use you own resistor to set it's voltage? I used my own resistors
Did you set the PGFB as with the 3.3 Volt 3045? I always use PGFB with the 3045 because I alwase use 22 or 47 µF
Did it need that much heatsink or would smaller one be enough. you do need a heatsink but it can be a little smaller

For the PLL:
Are you feeding 3.3 Volts to that chip marked? Y2933 32KG4 CEC2 What is it? No searches I did found it. TLC2933A High Performance Phase Lockes Loop
Did you disconnect the voltage to that chip so the 3045 could feed it? Where did you interrupt the supply? yes

Is it necessary to use screened lead? yes, it gives a defined return path
Did you set the PGFB as with the 3.3 Volt 3045? yes

Do you have an external 5 Volt PSU feeding the USB in the Singxer instead of the computer USB bus? Mine is fed from my computer via the USB lead so would these three 3045 regulators have more effect in my Singxer that your already isolated USB area? I have two sources. On e is a fiber isolated USB conection to the PC. And the other is a highly modified Opticalrendu Ver. 1.0.1
Thanks.

 

[Xoverman]

 

[Ian S]

@Xoverman

Thanks for that help.

For the PLL:
Where did you interrupt the supply? Did you cut each track from the via to the capacitor? I can't quite see it on the photo.

I think I'll get all three of the extra 3045 that you did as all the small changes can add up to something worth having.

As vibration affect the clock signals so much, have to tried sticking 4mm butyl damping pad to the PCB under the Xtals? Might it get them too hot, as it will insulate to some extent?

A

 

[dleblanc343]

If anyone is curious to compare their SU-6 with the original SU-1, I'm needing to make space and dismantling office rig.

SU-1 is yours for $100 shipped

 

[Xoverman]

@Xoverman

Thanks for that help.

For the PLL:
Where did you interrupt the supply? Did you cut each track from the via to the capacitor? I can't quite see it on the photo.

I think I'll get all three of the extra 3045 that you did as all the small changes can add up to something worth having.

As vibration affect the clock signals so much, have to tried sticking 4mm butyl damping pad to the PCB under the Xtals? Might it get them too hot, as it will insulate to some extent?

A

Yes, I cut each track from the via to the capacitor. Make sure that you don't use ceramic capacitors for the CSet. Use polymer tantalum ( 22uF better 47uF ) !!!!!!
The ceramic capacitors generate tons of noise. Extremely sensitive to vibration. Also change the CSet pin capacitors of the XO supplys. You won't believe the change in clearety. It's extreme. It took me three years to figure that out. I never believed that the effect is that extreme. And I think the rest of the engineering would out there can't imagine it either, otherwise everybody would use tantalum capacitors for that job.
Cheers from Germany

 

[Ian S]

@Xoverman Thanks very much for finding that out and telling us.

My three 3045's arrive today and I'll be placing my order for the caps & resistors tomorrow.

I had three ceramic 22µ on the list so I'll change those to poly tants, and also replace the three CSet caps I fitted a few weeks ago.

Also on the list are some more polymer tantalum to replace some of the other MLCC near regulators and chips.

Did you use 22µ or 47µ for the Xtal CSet caps? If 47µ, I presume it started OK and wasn't too slow and caused a start up time out?

I found some Tantalum Nitride resistors so plan to replace the 3045 Set resistors with those. It's 33.2kΩ for the 3.3 Volt & I think 10 kΩ for the 1.0 Volt.

https://www.digikey.co.uk/en/products/filter/chip-resistor-surface-mount/52?s=N4IgjCBcoMxaBjKAzAhgGwM4FMA0IB7KAbRAHYYIBdfABwBcoQBlegJwEsA7AcxAF98YAJwAOYfBBJIaLHkIkQABhBVBIAExLRAVknTZOfEUikwSgAQBrAPIALALaYQ+GDAB0G6-aeq6jSBAAVS4OehtkAFlsVEwAVzZsAXwAWghoKRQMIwVTEB0AFmp1FI19KHY4+RNSPTVUgvKZbOrFHWFClTV+fiA

Should I also remove the MLCC under the poly tants that I soldered on top? Just have the poly tants there?

What value resistors did you use for the PGFB for 1.0 Volts output? I've looked all over the data sheet but it's not properly spelled out how to derive it. They stated 0.3V x (1 + Rpg2 / Rpg1). I guestimated 100 kΩ & 49.9 kΩ. Would that keep the voltage above 300mV to enable fast start up?

 

[Infoseeker]

What are the suggested supercap swap being done nowadays? Is there a specific safer brand to go for?

And what specs would a suitable Linear Power Supply need to be to compensate for that change?

 

[Ian S]

What are the suggested supercap swap being done nowadays? Is there a specific safer brand to go for?

2 x TV1625-3R0256-R
283-TV1625-3R0256-R-ND
Eaton. 25 Farad, 3 Volt, Super Cap. 18mΩ.
Replacing the two 15 Farad supercaps. Slighter wider pin spacing that the originals.

 

[Infoseeker]

Silly question:

Is there any reason I can't just use my Fiio PL50 linear power supply's voltage adjuster to set it at 7.5v for my Singxer?

 

[Xoverman]

@Xoverman Thanks very much for finding that out and telling us.

My three 3045's arrive today and I'll be placing my order for the caps & resistors tomorrow.

I had three ceramic 22µ on the list so I'll change those to poly tants, and also replace the three CSet caps I fitted a few weeks ago.

Also on the list are some more polymer tantalum to replace some of the other MLCC near regulators and chips.

Did you use 22µ or 47µ for the Xtal CSet caps? If 47µ, I presume it started OK and wasn't too slow and caused a start up time out?

I found some Tantalum Nitride resistors so plan to replace the 3045 Set resistors with those. It's 33.2kΩ for the 3.3 Volt & I think 10 kΩ for the 1.0 Volt.

https://www.digikey.co.uk/en/products/filter/chip-resistor-surface-mount/52?s=N4IgjCBcoMxaBjKAzAhgGwM4FMA0IB7KAbRAHYYIBdfABwBcoQBlegJwEsA7AcxAF98YAJwAOYfBBJIaLHkIkQABhBVBIAExLRAVknTZOfEUikwSgAQBrAPIALALaYQ+GDAB0G6-aeq6jSBAAVS4OehtkAFlsVEwAVzZsAXwAWghoKRQMIwVTEB0AFmp1FI19KHY4+RNSPTVUgvKZbOrFHWFClTV+fiA

Should I also remove the MLCC under the poly tants that I soldered on top? Just have the poly tants there?

What value resistors did you use for the PGFB for 1.0 Volts output? I've looked all over the data sheet but it's not properly spelled out how to derive it. They stated 0.3V x (1 + Rpg2 / Rpg1). I guestimated 100 kΩ & 49.9 kΩ. Would that keep the voltage above 300mV to enable fast start up?

The 47µF Xtal CSet caps I use are : F381A476MSALZT KYOCERA AVX Tantalkondensatoren – Polymer 10V 47uF 20%

I took some measurements while fixing the Opticalrendu Ver 1.0.1 USB Supply bug. Thay connected the Cset Cap to the wrong Pin of the LT3045.
The USB Supply uses two LT3045 in parallel.

This is the USB 5V output with a x100 PreAmp in front of the Scope. Cset is 22µF X7R.

This is the USB 5V output with a x100 PreAmp in front of the Scope. Cset is 22µF X7R. With vibration ! ( Just ticking aganst the PCB with the Fingernale very gentle )

This is the USB 5V output with a x100 PreAmp in front of the Scope. Cset is 47µF Tantal.

This is the USB 5V output with a x100 PreAmp in front of the Scope. Cset is 47µF Tantal. With vibration ! ( Just ticking aganst the PCB with the Fingernale very gentle )

 

[Ian S]

The 47µF Xtal CSet caps I use are : F381A476MSALZT KYOCERA AVX Tantalkondensatoren – Polymer 10V 47uF 20%

The USB Supply uses two LT3045 in parallel.

How many MLCC are you going to replace in your Singxer? Just the Cset ,or many more, or all of them!

I have about 60 in my digi-key basket, 0603, 0805, 1206. Some are 22µF, which I can stack to make 47µF, the rest are 47µF. Is it worth swapping more than those B0bb suggested?

To make a PSU for the Singxer I was looking at some parallel 3045 on a 3 pin board from Ali express. I could parallel 6 of those pairs to make 6 Amp supply..

 

[Xoverman]

Only Cset. And PLL Filter Caps. Ther not so easy to stack them. Contacks are only underneath the Caps.