Having only seen the picture, it's probably best to ask the seller.

Yes. I can see from the photo, the build has been significantly altered. Cheers, SB

"Sanyo" referes to the 2SA1968 bjt manufactored by Sanyo, which has been obsolete for quite some years. The specific BJT is used in the VAS current source in the KGSShv, as opposed to the fet 10m90 (manufactored by IXYS) being used in the "regular" KGSShv. Some (including Kevin) has reported the...

Infact, @thinker's impression might be very, very true: , this might very well be the result of the amp generating a lot of THD, Looking at the pictures, it seems like the high voltage supply is very weak in comparison to the Carbon, also it looks like most of the CCS's has been omitted...

don't it have a NB socket already? Stax tap the NB from the positive rail through 180k+390k to GND, plus a u100F (film) to GND and a 2m2 ballast resistor (which you have forgot to attach to Vout in your schematic) tapping from the PRO bias will pull down the PRO bias.

... :beerchug:

hows that? Looking at the specs provided, the amp most likely has ~325-350V rails, and around <10mA output stage current ... and sounds a bit like a 323/353 type-of-thing based on an switch mode power supply.

just ignore the comment please

V(t) = A sin (w t), and C = Q / V => V = Q / C, both derived with respect to time, and re-arrange for I, one get: I = A * 2pi * f * C

Kevin states the load: 120pf , which pretty much resemble the load Lambda/007/009 represent to the amp The current requirement is governed by the capacitance (load), voltage and frequency, the current requirement drops linearly with voltage assuming the same capacitance (load) and frequency...

However, raising the current in the output stage means more heat, means heavier sinks/chassis, and most likely more bold output transistors as well The 727 features just that, so Stax already did it, and for some reason decided not to pursue it further ...

which is easier than you might think ...

If you have located the break point, you might shorten the cable as @bmichels did it his 009's

Indeed it sounds like a bad connection of some sort. In my experience a faulty cable can be tricky. The cable may be broken somewhere other than at the actual inlet. It may have broken further down the cable. Try to fixate the driver and move the cable by holding it at the splitter rather, and...

Wireless World, Januar 1978, "Audio Power Amplifier Design", page 52

Probably no need to worry about that. If it happens at some point, a replacement cable can be had from ElectroMod in UK at some 95GBP and any skilled tech will be able to replace within 30min.

Cable relief are different between mk1 and mk2. Splitting the relief as @Tinkerer suggest is rather easy. @bmichels did it some half a year ago with some 009's .

I got a set of SR-X boards 2mm/4oz that I don't mind departing from

Donald is very helpful and provides a rather detailed step-by-step assembly guide, along with step-by-step testing to make sure the assembled circuit actually works.The only thing you need to add is the PC-supply, a box, some sockets, and lots of beads (as Donald points out).

There are a Group Buy going on at the moment at the other site. You can also find link's for Mouser BOM's, and get appropriate help the same place. Several not so experienced people have succeeded building Kevin's amps, just look through the threads over there.

KGSShv and KGSShv Carbon share most of the circuit topology. The voltage amplification in both are a cascoded "grounded grid" configuration - quite common in RF-circuit for high speed and low distortion - and also used in the famous Stax T2, Kevin Gilmore based his Blue Hawaii upon. The most...

10m90 goes to a proper heatsink, use nylon screws (not metal) and the Aavid 4170G alu oxi pad for mounting and thermal paste (regular white stuff and not anything else). dn2540 doesn't need any additional heatsinking. mount the 10m90 + resistors + DN2540 on a small piece of vero board (resistors...

You might have spend a lot of money on parts and really, really wants to go through with this - however, you questions so far all points in the same direction: don't!

Tinkering with High Voltage, wrong polarity might be an even bigger pain ... The drain of the 10m90 goes to B+ the other end of the circuit goes to the plate. And make sure the size of sink is adequate ~ 8-12W of heat from two 10m90's, and remember to use proper high voltage insulation...

Well, don't know Kenny Rankin, (the grown adult man, weeping his way through some kitsch poem) but it certainly sounds like he exhausted that particular genre long before 1st verse came to an end ...