I want to buy a yggdrasil, do I need a yggdrasil?   subscribed.

  I'd say spend a little bit more and get the schiit jotunheim with the built in dac.   edit: just to add jotunheim is very synergistic with the HD 650.

  Just fix your bottlehead crack.

Yeah probably not that low, but it does have triple the transconductance of 6080. My 7802 was cheaper than an 5998. Probably would be good to stock pile a few 7802 since I could see these are going to be very expensive in the future since I could only find one seller with it in stock. Doc I am...

  Crackatwoa is a good choice actually, for people who care about mids and musicality. Torpedo III will beat you up with the dynamics it throws at you. When matched with the HD 800 it's playing to the strengths of the HD 800, showing off it's dynamics and transient response just something that...

I built the crack sold it and built T3 then bought a crackatwoa. The crackatwoa sounds just like the crack, but it is a much lower in noise with the tube shunt regulator and with a better power transformer. Like the crrack it gots a good midrange harmonics easy to listen to, but the treble is a...

Well balanced amps just mean the ground between Left and Right Channel isn't shared and that's about it.   Well of course there are amps that do more than just that, some amplifiers are differential and balanced, a differential amplifier that is differential from input to output will reject...

For me damping ratio (impedance load/impedance source) is a matter of preference. High damping ratio makes the sound tighter and thin sounding. Low damping makes the sound softer and thicker. Higher damping is generally better for most people, it allows for better control of drivers, it also...

There was this one time for me when music sounded very dynamic but harsh. I thought it was my T3 causing it at first. But now I think it was the Musette burning in. It sounds much smoother now.

I built a crack in the past but sold it (my first real amp), the crackatwoa is just like the crack. Before in the past I had problem with the crack not presenting a wide enough sound stage, but the crackatwoa fixed that problem for me due to the shunt rectifying tubes. I think the crackatwoa is...

@deserat For me it's Torpedo III or mainline. Both parafeed, no feedback amps, the difference is differential. I think if you like the crack the mainline has that flavor but clean and mild, but in a direct comparison Torpedo III would outperform in dynamics and transparency.   The crack is...

Does anyone have an 5998 tube for sale? I am mainly interested in a tube that will lower the output impedance of my crackatwoa.

I'd put super glue on that tab.   For extra security, I'd also put dynamat extreme on the left and right side of the lolly pop driver to secure the driver to the housing, so if any other tabs fail you got dynamat to hold the driver in.   Just the left and right spots with dynamat, no need to...

  The Super Dupont Resonator mod makes the HD 800 close to the HD 800S, by reducing that 6khz treble peak in the same way the HD 800s did it (with a helmholtz resonator).   The Rug Liner in question would be this one. https://www.rugpadusa.com/products/comfort-grip My impressions was it...

I currently own the Crackatwoa and Torpedo III and built a crack in the past. I'd recommend you to build a Torpedo III, you get summit-fi performance at mid-fi price. It just stumps the Crack in transients, dynamics, clarity, details, though a leaner sounding amp.   Also if you are interested...

for a $500 budget   I'd go with an upgraded Torpedo I or stock Torpedo III (or upgraded Torpedo III if you spend the money), it can drive all your headphones very well, unless you have inefficient planars. BTW it's DIY and very good value.   It's a summit fi amp, puts out a lot of dynamics...

Ordered and waiting for my Elear. Posted to sub here.

@mad max might want to put dynamat directly on the driver (after removing spider) in addition to dynamat on the housing, It reduces the reverberation the most.

No, measuring jitter properly requires $100,000 lab equipment. Most manufactors don't even report jitter numbers. By ear the chromecast audio was tied for the most jittery source with my motherboard s/pdif optical output. (drop outs make chromecast less reliable than an computer optical...

For everday normal use for normal people the jitter won't matter much, but for the audiophile it matters a lot. But for $35 it sure is great at the price point.

1. HD 800 modded stock HD 800 is below HD 650 but wow mods really made the headphone amazing, it still requires the best recordings. 2. HD 650 modded My favorite go to cans, I wish there was an HD 850. 3. MA 900 modded fun headphone with a soundstage near HD 800. 4. Portapros porta use, pro...

You get a sort of haze, reminds me of a time when usb to spdif convertors where schiit. If you want to listen to jitter just listen to chromecast audio vs not using chromecast audio.   edit quick google search found this...

I get tons of jitter from chromecast. So sound quality is meh. But it sure is cheap though.

They going to be saying "yours is defective mines has more bass." Also portapro are open backs so puting it in a closed back headphone will have problems with the reflections from the back of the driver. They won't sound as clean as before.

Found the chart headroom is down but I had it saved. The little bump from 7-9khz is amazing for detail, it isn't overdone like the beyers or HD 800, just perfect IMO.