Be prepared to reverse polarity on ed ( more likely) or sw depending on location of notch.

Think of a capacitor as a small bucket that gets filled..caps store charge. It takes TIME to fill the bucket right? If you use a cap, it will delay the signal so it is now out of phase. THE SOLUTION per piotrus is to move it to the negative terminal if using a cap...by the time the bucket fills...

This is the basic pass calculator I use. Since the flow of energy in an IEM is more ALTERNATING versus direct current and are of negligible voltage, directionality of +- on a cap is inconsequential, but it's placement in the circuit is. Also, it is standard practice to use the correct value for...

I use this..

The sound thief works...I have a pic of mine somewhere in here..

Thats pretty interesting. I'd thought about feeding the vent back into the main bore so it acted like a passive radiator...pretty common in loudspeaker setups to maximize bass. So you were not impressed with the results?

Which switches and trim pots are you using? Every time I try to find the right ones on mouser or digikey, I end up with some giant component I cant fit in a shell!

Just one of the new ones to check out, not every Knowles driver!

I worked with Davin Moorman at Seltech...he graciously sent some samples for me to put through the paces. Their min order qty at the time was 100 pieces. Since these are now being carried by Digikey, I suspect the have relaxed their policies. I am obviously amateur, but they still worked with me.

Digikey has them now in singles...$39 each and in stock.

Any thoughts on single HP cap value for the RDU dual super tweeter? I'd ideally like it to cut at 6-7k as it doesn't appear the RDU does anything below this anyway.

yep...that's the price for 1. Only good thing is they are not counterfeit or used!

Anyone have a datasheet for the Knowles RQU35066? I can't find one anywhere and I have some samples. Also....what is the purpose of the twin separated spouts?

Here is the HE...

I do...I've got it written at home. Give me a day as I'm travelling...

I've used the HE quite a bit. Its very easy to work with and I've added est65's for sparkle and hodvtec's full range, no cap or resistor through 1 mm tube for great low end results. Didnt have to switch any polarity...

Yes you can tell if polarity is wrong because the graph will appear "notched" as above. If you are listening to it, it will sound as though a parametric filter is on it. The reason is the two drivers are out of polarity acoss those frequencies, essentially fighting/cancelling each other out in...

I don't know the mic, but what the HELL was he doing with the vent?? It looked like he was tuning the BA and feeding the output of the vent through a tube back into everything. Passive radiators are well understood in normal speaker builds, but never mentioned in this forum....I'm guessing this...

When I've used the sonion est's, I've used them in conjunction with other tweeters. I use a highpass so I'm not wasting energy (normally about 3K for me() but I only use the est to add sparkle and some high end breath....if that makes sense. It can add some dimension to even wbfk/swfk...

The short answer is you will still need a tweeter/fullrange in conjunction with an RAU. It appears (per the graph) that it doesn't hit 100DB until the 7K range, so something else is going to have to pick up the slack....this guy is just for "sparkle" in my opinion. My worry is everything else...

No stone for me...

I use the carbide rounded bit as it doesn't clog up with material...I then hit it with the sanding disks for use with the dremel...

Oil from fingers is not water soluable....

Anytime you sand or prior to your first coat, you use alcohol to remove dust, lint, debris, oil from fingerprints, etc. This makes your laq adhere better with no haze and makes it flow evenly.

I dip mine as well....I light sand only before 1st coat and clean w alcohol prior to dipping. I spin before curing and I have no issues, even with clear shells.