Prefer to keep to digital only because I apply room correction in the receiver so if I can avoid any extra A to D conversions in the chain.  I think I will lean towards the CCA, thanks.

Thanks for the input, is that on digital signal path for both?     As well, On a 7.1 reciever, does the CC2 open up a full 7.1 PCM stream or does it switch to stereo PCM as needed?

I am trying to decide between Chromecast 2 and Chromecast Audio for my application.  I have a Pioneer Elite reciever /w HDMI I want to use to play music on speakers.  Currently using an aptX bluetooth unit via digital coax.  Is there any likely sound quality difference between CCA on optical...

My opinion is not valid because I don't have hundreds of dollars sunk into parts that, in my experience, make so significant difference to the sound?  I've got nothing against listening subjectively, I pick all my other parts based on sound not specs.   Yes I do legitimately do believe...

It would depend on the application.  For a headphone recable, depending on the length the 26 AWG may add a small amount of extra resistance.  For say an RCA connection we are talking line level with high input impedance so resistance is not much of an issue here.   Big Poppa, My comment...

Quote: What exactly about the silver impedes the low end dynamics?  Does this mean that in a silver-plated copper the bass frequencies will propogate through the copper core while the mids and highs stick to the silver coating?

I think there are a couple reasons silver cables sound better to some listeners, both are mental:   1) The (true) fact that silver has a lower resistance.  This idea promotes the idea of a conductor that is faster, more revealing (even if electrically it doesn't have this effect).  Not to...

  Guitar patch cable:  Neutrik 1/4" TS connectors, Canare GS6 cable and some heatshrink

I am about to build a guitar patch cable.  I've got plenty of experience with cables but had one particular question.  It uses a 1/4" TS connector (I'm using Neutrik connectors on Canare GS6 cable) and will naturally see pretty hard use compared to my hi-fi cables.  I'm debating whether to apply...

Since you are looking at recabling, stay away from Techflex covering for your cable. Use nylon or nothing at all. Techflex is very microphonic and every movement or drag of the cable may transmit noise into your ears.   A smaller starquad type cable is probably your best bet. The trickier...

No luck fixing that photo I posted on the last page. Even with my new iron and Panavise I just don't have the finesse to pull this off, I accidentally pushed one of the caps out of place. Anyone willing to take a look at it for me?

I accidentally pulled the DAC connections out from an imod'ed Gen4 while changing the battery. Can someone advise me where to reconnect them? The pads didn't seem to rip off with it so I hope I can fix it.

I'm confused by something: Quote: Originally Posted by Tangent's Website IL, IR, IG: Signal input, if you’re using the ALPS RK27 or Panasonic EVJ pots. Left, right, and ground, respectively. IL2, IR2, IG2: Same as above, but only for the ALPS RK097 pot. But when I look at...

I just jumpered R11s, no difference. I can faintly hear the signal only at max volume and the noise is much louder than the signal.

Quote: Originally Posted by MisterX Did you install or jumper the R8 positions? Regarding the R11s, you could jumper them if you wish but there was a post a long time ago that showed some resistance is actually a good thing there. Would leaving them open be bad then...

R8s are jumpered. I'll dig around and see if I have any resistors good for R11s.

Only a few mV. Supply is 9v battery for testing, will be 20V TREAD setup after that Input wiring is some panel mount RCAs, output is 1/4" output jack, neither are in a case right now so that grounding should not be an issue.

I've just built up a PIMETA here (v1) that is not working at all. It's Class-A biased, BUF 634P, AD843 and OPA 2132 based. Chips seem to be getting the right voltages, nothing is getting extremely warm, but I get nothing but noise on the output. I've left out R11 L/R which I didn't think should...

Building an Alien DAC + Pimeta. Do I need the BUF 634 on the DAC if I'm isolating the output jack completely from the case?

AD8610

I have everything to build a pimeta except C6, I'd like to try to get it going without C6 before ordering C6 since I want to get it done and tested. If not populating C6, should I simply short it out? It looks like this is necessary to complete the feedback loop.

Maybe I should move the switch on the DAC output so the 330k doesn't affect things too much when an external source is used and plus the DAC won't be turning off/on confusing the computer it's connected to.

I'm building an Alien DAC + PIMETA combo for a buddy of mine and he had one request; one set of RCAs that can be switched between DAC output (for an external amp) and input (so a different source can feed the PIMETA). At first I was going to something with a DPDT but I just thought of this and I...

The Neutriks are alright, they'd be my choice for most projects. You can drill them out a bit to take thick cable like Mogami 2534. Canare is ok, but soldering is tight. On the other hand, if you need your cable to also act as a set of nunchucks it's your only choice.