[ForceMajeure]

I don't think the highs are so much affected. The horn design bore (like VE) helps with high frequency extension and maybe making it a bit smoother. The difference between 1.5mm/2mm/3mm might not be as big...I don't know. I think you could measure it methodically to see the difference and also hear it. Don't forget that it is driver dependent and filter placement dependent so all those factor need to be considered.
The spiral ear ref uses a WBFK driver for the highs if am not mistaken so it is already a driver with more trebble extension than other...
The best way is to test individually different tubes diameter and filters so you could tweek the sound.

 

[Squirg]

Hey guys.  I'm building my first CIEM and I'm trying to keep it simple and cheap (which I have learned is impossible).  I've got a pair of CI drivers and looking for a pair of mids/highs.  I found these 5 options on ebay and wondering if someone could suggest which ones I should purchase.  Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.  Note:  I'm a drummer and needing serious LF.  Thanks!
 
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1pcs-x-Moving-iron-unit-Knowles-for-30265-31116-26784-30037-30120-Diy-Parts-/262171139020?var=&hash=item3d0a9e1bccmbId0jBfgnlxHaI3R_PLPYQ

 

[wormyrocks]

  @Silverprout How have you done yours?
 

Are those dampers located inside the canals? How well does that work?
 
Also, if anyone is interested in obtaining the drivers used in the Noble Savant, some folks on Reddit (I'm the OP) will be obtaining some shortly.

 

[Silverprout]

  Are those dampers located inside the canals? How well does that work?
 
Also, if anyone is interested in obtaining the drivers used in the Noble Savant, some folks on Reddit (I'm the OP) will be obtaining some shortly.

Yes they are.
As described by manufacturers !

 

[alanwcruz]

Been reading this post for quite a while and I was finally able to build a couple of CIEM's that look good, being a new member i still can't post pics but the method that worked for me was using Knox gelatin molds and UV curing using nail acrylic.
 
Had to make quite a few tries to get the shells to look good, my first tries where thin and opaque. Finally found out that the cause was exposure time and the knox mix. Using one pack of gelatin plus 1/4 cup water plus 1/4 cup glycerin did the trick, now my shells come out quite nice.
 
I reshelled some sony bluetooth earphones that never quite fit my ears and also built a GK based CIEM. Both turned out great! 
 
Thanks to all for sharing!

 

[wormyrocks]

Just finished my first pair.
 
 
How do you guys get that extra 10% of shiny? Is there a specific polish or dremel tip I should be using? Nail buffers not quite doing it for me.

 

[alanwcruz]

What works for me is adding a thin coat of uv acrylic and curing after I finish adding components and sealing the shell. Gives a nice smooth and shiny  finish.

 

[snowlune]

Let's take a step away from customs for once and have a talk about universals.
 
There seems to have been another user here who 3D printed a UIEM shell, but there seems to be quite a few challenges. Here's the one I made: https://a.pomf.cat/wghgrz.jpg http://a.pomf.cat/kzhmpu.jpg
 
First of all, my shell doesn't sit comfortably in the ear. I have a feeling it might be too large somewhere.
In addition, the 3D printed shell is having trouble maintaining a seal. Because it is printed with lines some parts end up leaking, which is why I smeared the blue putty all over it.
 
Also, it doesn't have enough space to accommodate a CI + damper. The dimensions are roughly 2x2cm for the width and height. If I make it any wider I doubt it will fit properly.
 
I know that Shure/Westone can get away with it because they're just sticking a single damper into the bore. However, I'm really curious as of how Noble/JH is managing to fit all these drivers into the shell while keeping it comfortable.

 

[audioxxx]

A shell from a small 3 BA's is quite small, and sits flush with my small ears.
When you compare the 10BA's shell, side by side the with the 3BA, the 3 looks like it's tiny, most of the extra bulk sits outside the side of the ear over an inch.
Unfortunately, there is no magic to hide these huge CI drivers, 2 in each side on these beasts I'm listening to.

And these things must be quite large, unless you use a stack of tiny twfk BA's, or similar BA's in combination's. But then you miss the great impact that the massive CI BA's bring to the bass line, and drums.

 

[audioxxx]

The more ports you want to use the smaller the tubing must be, I think more than 3 and it going to get tricky, the dampers are tiny and can be squeezed in the audio tubing, so they take not much room.

So their not an issue, but the barrel of the iem stem also must be quite thick, for more than 1 port. So thin stems like shure use in their iem's are out.

 

[snowlune]

The more ports you want to use the smaller the tubing must be, I think more than 3 and it going to get tricky, the dampers are tiny and can be squeezed in the audio tubing, so they take not much room.

So their not an issue, but the barrel of the iem stem also must be quite thick, for more than 1 port. So thin stems like shure use in their iem's are out.

The hardest part of the design I'm trying to go with is the tubing. From my experiences you want to put the damper around 1.5-2cm away from the nozzle to dampen out the HF peaks. If you put it too close you'll retain some of the peaks.
 
I'm actually trying to go with 2.2mm ID Shure nozzles, since I find Shure/Ety tips the best I can come up with. If I tried to go with a dual bore design, assuming that each bore is only 1mm, I'd end up with a total cross sectional width of around 5-6mm, considering that the 3D printer I have access to requires a minimum feature width of 1mm (they recommend 1.5mm, but 1mm is doable with some effort). This rules out the possibility of putting dampers in the tube in the nozzle.
 
Thus, if I am to go with my current design, I'd have to slap a 3cm tube onto the CI and somehow join that with the tube from the ED into the nozzle. To accomplish this I'm currently trying to figure out how to create a shell design to maximize the space inside.

 

[audioxxx]

You can buy some pretty good pre fab shells, that look great, and will fit 1 CA. But I guess it won't be half as fun as printing it.

 

[ForceMajeure]

  Just finished my first pair.
 
 
How do you guys get that extra 10% of shiny? Is there a specific polish or dremel tip I should be using? Nail buffers not quite doing it for me.

NIce, you managed to do a 3 bores. What diameter are those tubes? What drivers did you use?
Your CIEM's ear canal seems not too deep. Is it a design choice?
 
Regarding shiny, lacquer is your best bet. You could try to buff with a cotton wheel and blue polish compound but I didn't try it.

 

[ForceMajeure]

  Let's take a step away from customs for once and have a talk about universals.
 
There seems to have been another user here who 3D printed a UIEM shell, but there seems to be quite a few challenges. Here's the one I made: https://a.pomf.cat/wghgrz.jpg http://a.pomf.cat/kzhmpu.jpg
 
First of all, my shell doesn't sit comfortably in the ear. I have a feeling it might be too large somewhere.
In addition, the 3D printed shell is having trouble maintaining a seal. Because it is printed with lines some parts end up leaking, which is why I smeared the blue putty all over it.
 
Also, it doesn't have enough space to accommodate a CI + damper. The dimensions are roughly 2x2cm for the width and height. If I make it any wider I doubt it will fit properly.
 
I know that Shure/Westone can get away with it because they're just sticking a single damper into the bore. However, I'm really curious as of how Noble/JH is managing to fit all these drivers into the shell while keeping it comfortable.

Because you are using a universal fit. the seal can only be made by the silicone tip, so when you say you loose seal because of the stripped shell, I don't understand it.
 
Regarding the shape of your shell you should make it less triangular and more rounded so you could gain space to fit the drivers inside.
Take a look at this shell
 http://www.aliexpress.com/item/New-****-UE-Custom-Made-Around-Ear-Earphone-HIFI-Monitor-Headphones-Noise-Reduction-Headset-With-MMCX/32502390629.html?ws_ab_test=searchweb201556_7_79_78_77_80,searchweb201644_5,searchweb201560_7
 
You should do this, pay attention also where the connection for the cable is placed as it is where it should be to allow the cable to connect to the shell with as less discomfort as possible between it and your ear.
 
The more drivers you want to fit, the more the shell needs to protrude outward adding more depth to it...Usually CIEMs allow for more drivers while retaining a "flusher" profile.
Look at this picture from the layla thread   so yeah...
 
Regarding the bores, you could make the tubes connect at a wider diameter point
 

 

[Flukes]

  Because you are using a universal fit. the seal can only be made by the silicone tip, so when you say you loose seal because of the stripped shell, I don't understand it.
 
Regarding the shape of your shell you should make it less triangular and more rounded so you could gain space to fit the drivers inside.
Take a look at this shell
 http://www.aliexpress.com/item/New-****-UE-Custom-Made-Around-Ear-Earphone-HIFI-Monitor-Headphones-Noise-Reduction-Headset-With-MMCX/32502390629.html?ws_ab_test=searchweb201556_7_79_78_77_80,searchweb201644_5,searchweb201560_7
 
You should do this, pay attention also where the connection for the cable is placed as it is where it should be to allow the cable to connect to the shell with as less discomfort as possible between it and your ear.
 
The more drivers you want to fit, the more the shell needs to protrude outward adding more depth to it...Usually CIEMs allow for more drivers while retaining a "flusher" profile.
Look at this picture from the layla thread   so yeah...
 
Regarding the bores, you could make the tubes connect at a wider diameter point
 

Can't you just have the tubes come all the way up to mesh?