[HiFi1972]

I received my parts to build a switchbox that's going to switch between 3 headphones and am a little unclear on a couple of things:

1) The female TRS jacks I purchased (Neutrik NMJ6HC-S) have 6 solder pins; do I need to use all 6? I have a good idea of how the L/R wires go to the switch, but it looks like the switch only needs 1 L/R for each jack, not sure what to do with the second set of pins.

2) What about the shield? I don't think the switch gets a shield wired to it (right?) Do you solder a cable to the shield pin on these jacks and connect it to the case?

Also, I want to buy a good book on this, I was looking online at the Audio Wiring Guide but it doesn't seem to go into making these kinds of connections, I believe it covers making cables and soldering connectors to cables for the most part, and I'm already pretty good there; any recommendations for a good book on basic audio-oriented electronics?

Thanks!!

 

[v3nom]

Would you happen to have a multimeter? You can test which ones are which by plugging in an open ended connector and testing which pin is connected to what.

I believe the extra pins act like switches that will either open or close whether or not there is connector inside it. For example, if wired correctly, the amp will turn off once the connector is removed. (hope that makes sense)

 

[HiFi1972]

Yep, I've got a cheeeep MM and know how to check for continuity.

I can tell which pins are for T, R & S, but since there are two sets of pins, I'm not sure which ones to use; I wonder if they should be bridged?. There's no amp involved, just a 4 pole, 3 position switch (to clarify what I'm trying to do); I'm basically trying to put together a passive 3-source switcher.

 

[smrtby123]

I am not sure what the other pins are for other than redundancy. Does it say that the jack is normally open or closed? Don't bridge them because that won't do anything for you. If it is meant to be a normally closed the other set of lugs is meant for continuity if nothing is plugged in, which doesn't matter in your situation. It is pretty easy to see which lugs are for T,R and S.

Your switch is 4 pole;3 selections and a common ground. I am pretty sure your switch won't work for what you are trying to do. You need to keep the L and R signals separate so you will need a "double-throw" switch. That means that each position has two separate connections. So in total it should have 7~8 poles so that you have two channels per selection. You need a lug for left and right on each channel of your switch in order to have this work. I think the only way to make this one work is if you have a relay that allows the signals to flow from each channel, but then you are no longer passive.

 

[Fitz]

Quote:

Originally Posted by HiFi1972 /img/forum/go_quote.gif Yep, I've got a cheeeep MM and know how to check for continuity. I can tell which pins are for T, R & S, but since there are two sets of pins, I'm not sure which ones to use; I wonder if they should be bridged?. There's no amp involved, just a 4 pole, 3 position switch (to clarify what I'm trying to do); I'm basically trying to put together a passive 3-source switcher.

With the pins facing down and looking at it from the front, you'd use the row of pins on the right. They normally bridge across to the left side when no plug is inserted, via those metal bars running across the top, but when you plug in the headphones it lifts those bars up and disconnects the left side. Look at the connector while plugging in some headphones and you'll see what I mean.

 

[MisterX]

Here is an image....

(ignore the solder terminals on the other side of the jack)

 

[HiFi1972]

Quote:

Originally Posted by smrtby123 /img/forum/go_quote.gif Your switch is 4 pole;3 selections and a common ground. I am pretty sure your switch won't work for what you are trying to do. You need to keep the L and R signals separate so you will need a "double-throw" switch. That means that each position has two separate connections. So in total it should have 7~8 poles so that you have two channels per selection. You need a lug for left and right on each channel of your switch in order to have this work. I think the only way to make this one work is if you have a relay that allows the signals to flow from each channel, but then you are no longer passive.

Thanks everyone, I got some wires and (dry) hooked everything up, it works! Using a pole for each signal (L/R/G).

 

[linuxworks]

with females, you usually have to warm them up first. sometimes this can take a good amount of time...

otoh, male jacks are usually ready to go as soon as you take them out of the wrapper.

(lol!)

 

[schizo1989]

Quote:

Originally Posted by linuxworks /img/forum/go_quote.gif with females, you usually have to warm them up first. sometimes this can take a good amount of time... otoh, male jacks are usually ready to go as soon as you take them out of the wrapper. (lol!)

hahahaha

 

[HiFi1972]

LOL!

 

[smrtby123]

Quote:

Originally Posted by HiFi1972 /img/forum/go_quote.gif Thanks everyone, I got some wires and (dry) hooked everything up, it works! Using a pole for each signal (L/R/G).

Does the female jack work or your whole setup? Congrats on whatever one it is always a nice feeling when you get over that block. If you can draw up a quick circuit diagram of what your trying to do and post it I would like to see it.

 

[HiFi1972]

Quote:

Originally Posted by smrtby123 /img/forum/go_quote.gif Does the female jack work or your whole setup?

The whole setup worked, I tested it with just one output jack though and not all three (just basically tested the switch). I'll post a diagram once I've built it (in case I run into any other issues, but I think it will work; I hope!)

 

[smrtby123]

So just to clarify, your switch only has a total of 4 poles?

 

[MisterX]

Quote:

Originally Posted by smrtby123 /img/forum/go_quote.gif So just to clarify, your switch only has a total of 4 poles?

I think you have poles and throws mixed up.
A stereo switch only needs two poles (there is no need to switch the grounds)

 

[HiFi1972]

4 poles, 3 positions/throws (which means each pole has 3 pins, 12 pins total for the 4 poles).