Little Dot MK8SE / MK6 Super Mods (All verified mods are on first page)
Sep 27, 2015 at 11:21 AM Post #31 of 4,154
  I would like to re-echo Mogos' request for more particulars about each mod. E.g. in the coupling capacitor section, how are these labelled on the pcbs, where do we find them (arrows on photos would help)? What voltage specifications should replacements be, etc.

 
OK, no problem. I'll add the Voltage specs. And caps orientation (the Fen-shui of the amp ...) as we discussed that in the MK6/MK8 main thread
We may also add an "How to ..." chapter with all the "less formal" data we gathered and that can make one's life easier. 
 
Sep 28, 2015 at 1:41 PM Post #32 of 4,154
Cathode bypass cap section updated...

I consider this a huge beneficial upgrade from the cheapo blue electrolytics,
Which seem as two tiny caps encased in an imitation bipolar configuration,
Inside a blue "see thru" housing...
Edit:
But actually is just one dual cap with 3 pins converted to two..

It is an Extremely smart cost effective solution for a manufacturer,
But far from optimal sonic performance,
So a clear upgrade potential.

Take note I am not bashing in any way LittleDot,
But commending how smart their solutions were to maximize cost effective solutions.

Yet remember, this thread is about maximizing the true sonic potential,
hidden in the Little Dot amps...
:)
 
Sep 28, 2015 at 8:09 PM Post #33 of 4,154
 
Quote:
Where to put those Decoupling caps ?
Each centimeter/inch of wire will bring an extra impedance that will have an impact on the speed of the current needed.
So those caps need to be put as close to their associated tube as possible.
Ideally, they will be soldered directly on the leads of the Anode resistor (+200V side)  and the Cathode resistor (Ground side). 
Don't underestimate the difficulties that this constraint will bring, having to stick large caps in a small space is not that easy.

True statement!!!!!!! 
I'm in the middle of ripping everything out of the aluminum chassis. It was simply too hard to put back together once taken apart with those giant capacitors I'm using for the decoupling. 
 
I'm going to make the entire structure out of wood and I'm taking this opportunity to upgrade the Enla Silmic electrolytic capacitors I'm using for the cathode bypass capacitors with 8 of the giant MKP capacitor types I have littering my wood box, like the ones below.


Why 8 of them? Because they don't come in 470uf so I'm doubling up.
The only reason this is going to work is because I no longer have the aluminum chassis getting in my way.
Now I just gotta blow 700 bucks on some more caps.
 
Sep 28, 2015 at 10:14 PM Post #34 of 4,154
What you really need is to be very carfull you dont get shocked(!) By those caps!

You wont know if there is any charge on them if they have been tested before shipped...

Wear surgical gloves,
As this IS surgery when you go down the "rabbit hole" of supermods which will truley bring you to another world...
Another level where very few other amps reach(!)
:wink:
 
Sep 29, 2015 at 5:09 AM Post #36 of 4,154
One more thing. Could you guys point out the soldering points of the added decoupling caps on the PCB (Anode resistor (+200V side)  and the Cathode resistor (Ground side)).
 
Sep 29, 2015 at 9:09 AM Post #38 of 4,154
I'm sure he will update the guide with that information but for now

See the large brown capacitors in the middle? Those are what replaced the blue caps (cathode bypass), and the black resistors to the right and left of them? Those are the power resistors we replaced.
You want the decoupling caps to go between those two points from the south side lead, you will also be putting another bypass cap (those rifa caps) in .33uf between those points as welll. You see how this area will end up having a lot of components..
 
This is what I did for the bypass caps

 

 

 
Sep 29, 2015 at 10:33 AM Post #39 of 4,154
That was a very good idea to put on other side of board, but I didnt want to go thru the hassle..

Only the bypass caps on my component side are .33uf, NOT .033uf

This side is not critical, and can be .22 as well.. but I would not go higher than .33uf, and use types (RIFA)suggested in fisrt page for optimal sonics.

What IS ALSO very important, are the Cathode bypass caps...
They were selected specifically for their sonic traits and need be the same .1uf RIFA, as stated in first page, exact type.
Size was determined so as to not interfere with the electrolytic sonics of the electrolytic choices of cathode bypass caps..
 
Sep 29, 2015 at 10:35 AM Post #40 of 4,154
Here is a pic of the decoupling cap locations,
I May include it later in first page..

Once you see, it is very straightforward and easy..
 
Sep 29, 2015 at 10:40 AM Post #41 of 4,154
There will be more info updated in first page, as we find time.

For example the resistors..
The MK8 has a more linear "enhanced" version of the "white Cathode Follower", which includes grid resistors to upgrade,
Which are not in the mk6..
Yet the mk6 still needs upgrade of grid resistors in driver tube stage, by volume control,
IF they are the blue resistors..
If they are the brown type, you are good.
:)
 
Sep 29, 2015 at 12:00 PM Post #42 of 4,154
............

What IS very important, are the Cathode bypass caps...
They were selected specifically for their sonic traits and need be .1uf wimas, as stated in first page, and exact type,
so as to not interfere with the electrolytic sonics of the 220uf cathode bypass cap..

Maxx134 I am a little confused. On the first page as an example solution are shown (Elna Silmic 2 470µF/50v // RIFA PME 0,1µF/250V). So no wimas. My question was about bypass caps for decoupling (by the way thank you very mutch for the photo. I need to know the points of soldering to plann maximum "volume" capcitors).
So for the bypassing of the decoupling caps you have used 0.33uF 275Vdc Evox Rifa PME271M.
 
Sep 29, 2015 at 12:13 PM Post #44 of 4,154
Now everything is as plain as a day. 
redface.gif

 
Sep 29, 2015 at 12:23 PM Post #45 of 4,154

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