[manny49]

Yea I saw the pictures, one of them looks like it had a very even layer of darker material surrounding the cup.
 

 
It sort of feels like a cheap Ikea desk when I run my finger across it.

 

[Ampeezy]

I am just hoping that monoprice is paying attention, and that the next batch will fix all, if not the most pertinent connector issue. They have to change something at least. then i'll get one for sure.

 

[heavyharmonies]

If it's just a top layer of veneer, that's one thing, but if the underlying wood itself is cracking, that's another issue entirely. The former is likely just cosmetic, the latter structural (and disconcerting).
 
Can anyone who has the cracks tell just how deep the cracks run?

 

[Martinrm]

 

It sort of feels like a cheap Ikea desk when I run my finger across it.

Haha right! but how much can were really expect for $300 

 

[manny49]

It wasn't really a dig at the build quality. Just merely an observation on my end.

 

[manny49]

  If it's just a top layer of veneer, that's one thing, but if the underlying wood itself is cracking, that's another issue entirely. The former is likely just cosmetic, the latter structural (and disconcerting).
 
Can anyone who has the cracks tell just how deep the cracks run?

It's the wood underneath splitting causing the top layer of veneer to crack along with it. The last user who posted pics clearly showed the cup pretty much split in half. 
 
Also looking at the previous photos, it looks like on the M1060 the grain of the wood runs horizontally across the cup whereas the LCD2 runs vertically. 

 

[Libertad]

So what is the general consensus on how these sound? I've had a few hours with them and I'm in love with the planar magnetic signature. How do these stack up to the likes of the LCD-2 and LCD-3?
I ran them with after market cables and a Chord mojo and thought is sounded boss as hell.

 

 

[heavyharmonies]

  It's the wood underneath splitting causing the top layer of veneer to crack along with it. The last user who posted pics clearly showed the cup pretty much split in half.

 
Which picture is that? I went back a dozen pages and in all of the images posted, the only thing you can be certain of is surface cracking. None show depth. I certainly didn't see a "cup pretty much split in half".

 

[genclaymore]

  I am just hoping that monoprice is paying attention, and that the next batch will fix all, if not the most pertinent connector issue. They have to change something at least. then i'll get one for sure.

I hope so too, other wise I won't get one either. You shouldn't have to apply wood protection on the headphones your self to stop it from cracking, that's monoprice job. Maybe move away from using wood if they can't stop it from cracking. Because I won't be looking forward to Rmaing them every time they crack.

 

[manny49]

   
Which picture is that? I went back a dozen pages and in all of the images posted, the only thing you can be certain of is surface cracking. None show depth. I certainly didn't see a "cup pretty much split in half".

 
This does not look like surface cracking to me. But maybe it's the angle.

 

[heavyharmonies]

I think it's the angle. You'd pretty much need a straight-on shot at macro settings and distance with high lighting and exposure to see how deep the crack goes. What looks to be depth in that shot may just be shadow.

 

[maxh22]

So what is the general consensus on how these sound? I've had a few hours with them and I'm in love with the planar magnetic signature. How do these stack up to the likes of the LCD-2 and LCD-3?
I ran them with after market cables and a Chord mojo and thought is sounded boss as hell.:tongue_smile:  

What color do you have your Mojo at?

 

[SerenaxD]

   
 
Haha I happen to have a bottle laying around and this is a good idea
 
Here's a before and after (This is one coat, turned out okay, but not i'm tempted to sand to wood with a high grit sand paper and do multiple coats, will report back later) Now i kinda want to lacquer coat the wood. 
 
 
 
Before: 

 
After:

 
 
Any tips on applying the coating? I have a bottle ordered and my M1060 are arriving Tuesday, so I want to apply the coating ASAP. 

 

[Cirkustanz]

Guys, I seriously have to call shenanigans on the thought of an oil doing anything at all to mitigate the chance of the oil cracking.
 
This is an enthusiast form obviously, but I think we should all slow our roll when it comes to the worry and fret about them.  Some of us sound like we care more about these $300 headphones than a luxury car owner I know.
 
They were obviously designed poorly, and the wood should have been thicker or not even present in the first place.  The funny thing is the wood is obviously just there for cosmetic purposes, and it is of course cosmetic purposes that are causing people to be upset that the wood has cracked on the headphone.
 
If that wood piece was just metal, I have to wonder what people would have said at first about the build quality of the headphones.  A lot of people were really enamored with the build of them.  I really think a lot of people see wood on headphones and just automatically assume they are great, just because some other headphones have wood on them are great.  They make excuses for the other things that point to being inferior, such as the headband, the cable, the cheese grater grills, etc...

 

[mid-range]

 
Woodworker here.  If it is a matter of water vapor absorption from different climatic conditions, no oil or finish will stop this.   In scientific tests, the only thing that really slows down water vapor moving in and out of wood is a thick layer of wax, as in 1" of paraffin.  Which is why they use wax on the end of boards to prevent splitting when drying and seasoning them.  Of course, some finish is better than nothing, and a spit coat of shellac is more effective than most other finishes for slowing water vapor absorption.  (Edit:  Don't try applying shellac to your headphones though!   It should be applied after smoothing and staining the wood, and before the final top coats.)
 
This problem with the M1060 is more likely due to making a relatively large hole in thin wood, then having it undergo some stress as it pivots.

 You are spot on. 50 years of woodworking here. Oils are for the finish ONLY. They do not penetrate the wood. They are made to maintain a certain degree of flexibility in the finish only. The pivot is acting like a wedge in thin wood. Once the product hits our shores, the wood dries out and it cracks. Someone mentioned getting a lot of rain in L.A.  What are your humidity levels though? Here in the desert, it can be pouring rain but the humidity level can still be quite low.