[mjstealey]

As for the setting on the Freya+, I tried buffer LED and tube LED mode and the output selection either the differential buffer at 0db gain and the tube gain at 12-13.5dB gain. I haven't touch the volume on my power amp.

Curious about this part ...
When you say you haven't touch[ed] the volume on my power amp, does that mean it's at 100% when using the Freya+ as the preamp?
You basically have two volume pots in the mix and one of them should be at or near max volume so the other can be used for adjusting to the listening level.
Generally it's the amp that gets set to 90-100% of max, and then the Freya is used to set the listening level.

 

[prtuc2]

This is my first pre-amp, so I guess my understanding of its functionality was wrong. I set my power amp volume normally at 10-11 o' clock position less than half of their max volume. So, I should max out the volume pot on either my pre-amp or power-amp and use whichever one to control the overall volume? Does having a tube amp or power amp at max volume shorten out the lifespan of the tubes? Thanks, for bringing up the volume pot to my understanding.

My initial understanding for pre-amp is it has gain volume which will increase the overall volume compares to a stand-alone power amp.

 

[tincanear]

Hello everyone, just received my Freya+ today and decided to fire it up. I am not sure if I am connecting it wrong or just the unit itself even at max volume on the Freya+ --> Decware torii MK5 the listening volume is much lower than without Freya+ in the system.
Also test this with my headphone setup Freya+ --> Eksonic Aeras, the volume is noticeable lower. I am not sure if burning it in will solve this problem. This is a B-stock item just for your information.
Thanks for any input everyone.

Is Mute on (leftmost LED of the group of three left of the volume control will be lit when muted)? Pls remember to turn down volume before un-muting…

Also when changing gain modes (passive / fet buffer / differential tube gain) the output may be momentarily muted and Status LED on right side will blink.

(Added)
Volume setting should not reduce tube life. On Freya+ and Freya N switching to either the passive or FET buffer (1x) Gain Mode turns off the tubes.

The passive attenuator (relay-switched resistor) volume controls on Ragnarok, Freya, Saga series have a different taper than conventional controls and often need dial settings at 12 o’clock or higher.

https://www.head-fi.org/threads/sch...most-improbable-start-up.701900/post-15008530

 

[PoMarantz]

This is my first pre-amp, so I guess my understanding of its functionality was wrong. I set my power amp volume normally at 10-11 o' clock position less than half of their max volume. So, I should max out the volume pot on either my pre-amp or power-amp and use whichever one to control the overall volume? Does having a tube amp or power amp at max volume shorten out the lifespan of the tubes? Thanks, for bringing up the volume pot to my understanding.

Hi…not sure if you cleared this all up yet. Separates are the BEST in my world…more choices…more control, more fun.. ….also more complicated… …You are in a learning curve right now.
I think of it like this…my pre amp is "The Boss"…it drives and controls my power amp. The pre amp is "The Brains". … In my world I would put the volume knob(s) on the power amp on "Full Volume"…and just forget about them…like they don’t exist any more. The pre amp will now control that amp…just MAKE SURE you have the mute button off and the volume knob kicked way back on your Freya when you start this set-up.
I make it a habit to turn my Freya volume down low at the end of each listening session so I have no "surprise" on my next outing. Also, be careful when switching to tube mode during a listening session, as the preamp's gain (volume) jumps up quite a bit…(and once you switch to tube mode the tubes have to warm-up 30 sec. before the circuit connects…cool feature…and during that warm-up you CANNOT adjust the Freya Volume…so I make it a habit to kick the volume back a bit BEFORE I switch to tube mode.) You will just form new habits and it becomes second nature.
I currently have a McIntosh MC152 Power Amp. It has no volume controls. …but, before this I had a Bob Carver Power Amp and PreAmp…. The Bob Carver Power Amp had left and right volume knobs. For 40 years I left them on full volume and controlled the amp with the preamp. (Yes…I am old )..The amp was fine. I sold it recently for more than I bought it for!
If you want to be extra careful, contact your power amp manufacturer and ask them the best procedure for your amp with The Freya, but I think what I described is standard practice with separates. Possibly, if you had super sensitive speakers (sensitivity @95 or more ), you may want to kick the volume back a bit on the power amp…but I have never had speakers that sensitive.
Anyone feel free to jump in and correct me if I am in error, here. I am just relating my experiences.
Hope this helps you.

 

[mystaiced]

Hi…not sure if you cleared this all up yet. Separates are the.BEST in my world…more choices…more control, more fun.. ….also more complicated… …You are in a learning curve right now.
I think of it like this…my pre amp is "The Boss"…it drives and controls my power amp. The pre amp is "The Brains". … In my world I would put the volume knob(s) on the power amp on "Full Volume"…and just forget about them…like they don’t exist any more. The pre amp will now control that amp…just MAKE SURE you have the mute button off and the volume knob kicked way back on your Freya when you start this set-up.
I make it a habit to turn my Freya volume down low at the end of each listening session so I have no "surprise" on my next outing. Also, be careful when switching to tube mode during a listening session, as the preamp's gain (volume) jumps up quite a bit…(and once you switch to tube mode the tubes have to warm-up 30 sec. before the circuit connects…cool feature…and during that warm-up you CANNOT adjust the Freya Volume…so I make it a habit to kick the volume back a bit BEFORE I switch to tube mode.) You will just form new habits and it becomes second nature.
I currently have a McIntosh MC152 Power Amp. It has no volume controls. …but, before this I had a Bob Carver Power Amp and PreAmp…. The Bob Carver Power Amp had left and right volume knobs. For 40 years I left them on full volume and controlled the amp with the preamp. (Yes…I am old )..The amp was fine. I sold it recently for more than I bought it for!
If you want to be extra careful, contact your power amp manufacturer and ask them the best procedure for your amp with The Freya, but I think what I described is standard practice with separates.
Anyone feel free to jump in and correct me if I am in error, here. I am just relating my experiences.
Hope this helps you.

Nope, think you nailed it. Max out the power amp volumes (there might be two on his amp) and forget it exists. Then use just Freya to control volume. And I ALWAYS turn the freya volume knob to zero before shutting it off or switching modes. It's part of my routine now.

Here is a picture from the decware manual

 

[PoMarantz]

Nope, think you nailed it. Max out the power amp volumes (there might be two on his amp) and forget it exists. Then use just Freya to control volume. And I ALWAYS turn the freya volume knob to zero before shutting it off or switching modes. It's part of my routine now.

Here is a picture from the decware manual

Interesting…I did not notice a change in "sound quality" on my Carver gear by playing around with those volume controls, but then…I was never listening for one! . I just learned something new. THANKS!

 

[prtuc2]

Thanks everyone for the clarification. Here is what Steve replied back:

Industry standard for a digital source is 2 volts. The input sensitivity of the TORII MK5 is around 2 volts. It can come to full power without a preamp in most cases. A preamp is used for gain structuring by playing one volume control against the other. Start with the amp turned all the way up and use the preamp to control volume and then experiment from there.

Tube life is not affected.

Steve : )

 

[PoMarantz]

Thanks everyone for the clarification. Here is what Steve replied back:

COOL…That's my experience. Sounsds like you have all good info.
Let us know when your tube swapping addiction starts!

 

[jlemaster1957]

New Freya+ on deck- VlavesnMore NOS 6SN7 GE GTAs on cathode follower, Marconi GTBs on gain. Right out of the box impressive (but this is my first serious tube pre so comparing here to a SS DAC amp system

I dithered a long time wondering about pre-amps, but in the end stayed with the original plan. I am sure there must be better pre-amps out there - but since I have never had a proper tube- pre-amp in my system before (I tried a Douk $100 that runs a pair of GE JAN 5654w’s, I never thought they did much for the sound)- . This is VERY different, in the first 5 min.

At first, after I plugged in all 4 tubes, the GE in the L channel cathode follower stage did not engage with power for some reason- I removed and re-seated the tubes in the socket savers and switched the tubes around (so L channel tube was on the right now) and everything was fine after that. Not sure what that was all about- I guess the contacts weren’t perfect to start with.

I’m sure after Freya+ burns in there will be changes, but the initial impression- bass has excellent impact, pretty fast, mids are forward, female voices crystal clear, smooth, detailed, treble a bit forward but there is good air detail retrieval and space. Stage and imaging is immediately improved- this is a big step up. This is all out of Yggdrasil OG and into Burson 3XGT (with all the 2023 upgrades including SP02 power chips and V7 vivid op amps).

So count me impressed. DEFINITELY happy I went with VnM tubes.

 

[ihavet0es]

Hi all. Has anyone tried using a single 500v+ cap for the output coupling film caps? I think the two 250v caps are in series to get to the rated voltage (dropping capacitance to about 1.1uf). I'm getting ready to mod my Freya and checking all my options. Below is a screenshot taken from Schiit's AI help.

 

[ihavet0es]

I just pulled the two wima caps from my Freya. They pass through the relays and must be tied to the different buffer stages. I'll post pics of the pcb without caps once I figure out how to get them off my phone.

 

[PoMarantz]

I just pulled the two wima caps from my Freya. They pass through the relays and must be tied to the different buffer stages. I'll post pics of the pcb without caps once I figure out how to get them off my phone.

Are you doing separate capacitors or going with on big one?
I did this but followed someone's instructions…I am a novice at such things.

 

[ihavet0es]

I just finished installing two 2.2uf Jantzens(red and silver) per channel since I had them onhand. They're quite large so I had to get creative to get them to fit. All 4 paralleled with a 1nf silvered mica cap (fits on the underside of PCB). The closest cap (red jantzen) to the tubes also paralleled with Dueland .01uf copper foil cap. Breaking it in right now.
I've already messed with other areas of the amp with the most noticeable difference coming from adding .01uf film caps (CD 942C 2000v) to the two blue bypass .1uf ceramic caps. This was immediate with no breakin. I can only describe as everything having more impact and presence, bass guitars have texture and depth (not extra bass). I also added 1nf micas to all the 450V electrolytics (8 total, this also made a noticeable and immediate difference. Also they fit under the PCB). This opened up the soundstage, more atmospheric. I can better discern location of sounds. My setup is a heavily modded SMSL D1se2 balanced into the Freya (new production tubes EH gold in gain and PSVane UKs gold in cathode) into a heavily modded Valhalla 2+ (Genelax gold lion e88cs and amperex holland 7119 with adapters) to AudioTechnica R70x headphones.
I don't think I'm going to try a single cap due to the relays. I am going to add another set of duelands to the silver Jantzens after a couple of days with this setup. I'm considering trying different output caps,(radial but not coffin) so I can shorten the leads (I'll have to run preamp without the top). I may change the ceramics but I like it now and the leads are short.

 

[PoMarantz]

WOW…you sound very knowledgeable and ambitious. Also, it seems that when you want to void your warranty, you go after it with GUSTO! …. I ponied up the cash for these caps https://www.v-cap.com/odam-capacitors.php They are a bit extravagant, but because of the way they are designed they are small and fit under the hood. I am a neatnick so I could never run mine with the hood off…LOL! I also had fun putting vents in mine as they may help getting some convection going around those two transformers..and visually I think my preamp looks super cool. Yes… I changed my resistors out and after the total mod I noticed more information, better imagining and wider sound staging! Also, that project made me feel engaged, involved and more emotionally invested in my system…something that I did not see coming. I get enjoyment every time I use my Freya!!!

 

[ihavet0es]

I agree with all your thoughts on the project and engagement. Also your posts and the other's are very helpful with modding the Freya. BTW, pretty sexy work on yours!
I am definitely novice with knowledge but I am ambitious. I do like reading manufacturer product spec sheets and application guilde lines. I've destroyed a lot of boards but gotten better over time. LOL my best friends are lots of flux, a long tip solder sucker and a 400C iron with Hakko wedge tip.
I'm considering changing the restistors. My board/build version has surface mount resistors where the 47.5k are located. I need to verify the values since there's a total of 8 in series and parallel.
The vent holes you added are a good idea also. After a couple of minutes being unplugged and the top off, transformer temp was about 79C. While not hot from what I've read on the net i wonder what is does to all the components and longevity. I added sticky heatsinks to the laminated metal as a percaution.