I just hope it will have a better DAC card to set in the Ragnarok 2. MB card is not worthy of it.
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Schiit Happened: The Story of the World's Most Improbable Start-Up
- Thread starter Jason Stoddard
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- schiit audio schiit-audio
Kitechaser
Headphoneus Supremus
Thanks for all the reply guys. Anyone have a chance to compare a Vidar to say.. a Bryston 4bst?
I don't listen to music too loud anyways, but would not want to sacrifice dynamics and bass control by under powering the 1.7i.
Thank you
I don't listen to music too loud anyways, but would not want to sacrifice dynamics and bass control by under powering the 1.7i.
Thank you
Ableza
Headphoneus Supremus
Huh?I just hope it will have a better DAC card to set in the Ragnarok 2. MB card is not worthy of it.
ThorCorps
New Head-Fier
I see the amplifiers, Vidar, Aegir and Ragnarok, are all 3.875" high (I presume that's rounded to the nearest 0.005"), does that include the feet?
Based on my Vidar, that does not include feet. Mine is pretty much 4 3/16" with feet.
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Pietro Cozzi Tinin
Headphoneus Supremus
Please try to keep up Master Ableza.Huh?
I’m thinking it’s over current since it happens at the same place in multiple songs whether I have a fan under the Vidars or not. I don’t have a thermocouple cemented to the heat sink or anything, but pointing an IR thermometer at the lower rear part of the fins, it never got to the temp Jason mentioned as the trip point. Also, it comes right back on with no extra delay if I turn down the volume and power cycle the amp
Yeah, I've had mine up around 70C without them going into thermal, yet when they have cut out they were only in the 50C range, and like with yours it is easy to replicate using the same source material, and resets with a power cycle.
Magneplanar 1.7i, with an SVS sub crossed over at 40 Hz and 12 dB/octave. I did try using the hi pass outs from the SVS for a while to take some of the load off the Vidars but they would still cut out at a similar place, and there was audible noise floor when using those hi pass outs.I agree, I owned a set of Red Dragons and sold them about a week after I got them. What speakers are you using?
Ableza
Headphoneus Supremus
I'll have to look up whatever impedance curve might exist on the web for those, but if they drop below 4-ohms that could be your issue. OH, and are you using a single Vidar in stereo or two of them as mono amps?Magneplanar 1.7i, with an SVS sub crossed over at 40 Hz and 12 dB/octave. I did try using the hi pass outs from the SVS for a while to take some of the load off the Vidars but they would still cut out at a similar place, and there was audible noise floor when using those hi pass outs.
Driving a subwoofer off the speaker outs does not take load off an amp, by the way, except for below the Xover point which I doubt is your issue with Mangeplaners. In my opinion it's the absolute worst way to use a subwoofer amp. Drive it using line-level inputs if you can.
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Was using line level XLR inputs in both cases from the Freya. In one case, it was Freya->SVS->2xVidar with the low pass to the sub’s amp at 50 Hz and the high pass to the Vidars at 50Hz. So nothing below 45-50 Hz was getting to the Vidars.I'll have to look up whatever impedance curve might exist on the web for those, but if they drop below 4-ohms that could be your issue. OH, and are you using a single Vidar in stereo or two of them as mono amps?
Driving a subwoofer off the speaker outs does not take load off an amp, by the way, except for below the Xover point which I doubt is your issue with Mangeplaners. In my opinion it's the absolute worst way to use a subwoofer amp. Drive it using line-level inputs if you can.
I switched it now so the Freya XLR out is split to the SVS with 40Hz Low pass, and Full Range to the Vidars.
I think the main problem with the pass through configuration is that the high pass is dsp, so it’s doing A2D2A, and likely adding noise in the process. And since a high levels I could still trip the Vidars, no point in keeping it that way.
PioBeer
100+ Head-Fier
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Anyone using an Aegir with a set of Tekton double impacts? If so, how are you liking it? Is there plenty of power?
Kitechaser
Headphoneus Supremus
Was that with 1 or 2 vidars?I heard Vidar+ Maggie 1.7 at Schiittr last month, it was very good indeed, no volume problem at all. The Maggie's sounded pretty effortless.
Kitechaser
Headphoneus Supremus
How does it sound with just one Vidar. I will be using a ADI‑2 DAC also acting as a preamp.Dana Reed, post: 15038412, member: 438555"]Saga + Vidar didn’t have enough gain for me with the 1.7i in my 12Wx30Lx8H room. So I got a Freya and another Vidar and I mostly run in tube gain mode.
Now it’s pretty much always loud enough and sounds great, and I know where not to put knob on certain songs to avoid putting the amps into protection
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Jabba
100+ Head-Fier
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Thinking of buying a yggy analog2, but have a question.
Is it possible to connect both RCA and balanced at the same time without degrading the sound quality?
(Have separate amps for speakers and hp)
Is it possible to connect both RCA and balanced at the same time without degrading the sound quality?
(Have separate amps for speakers and hp)
leonthebumme
100+ Head-Fier
I really liked your post.
Here's my distilled and simple answer to that tube question: In the beginning of electronics, tubes are all there were. They sounded really good but they are expensive and can be fragile and like a light bulb they eventually wear out. So over time other solutions were invented, which we call solid state. Tubes are still around because some people prefer their sound over solid state. It's totally a taste thing. If you are curious and can afford it, try something with tubes. You might like it or you might not, but you have nothing to lose except your time and a little cash.
Thanks! My only experience with tubes thus far has been with my Saga which I got last fall. I generally prefer the sound with the tube engaged rather than on strictly passive. Perhaps that means I like tubes...
Side question - how can you tell when a tube is wearing out and needs replacing?
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