Hi guys! I'm new here, even though my profile is somewhat old. Sorry if I do repeat something that has already been said before, but I just didn't feel like reading every single post in this thread beforehand
I'd like to comment on liberating drivers.
Yesterday I did my first ever driver liberating. I was somewhat puzzled by how easy it was when done right, and how the guides around the web seems to be somewhat cruder than needed. I was "lucky" enough to have my first go at a dead SR-60 driver. I tried the method described for the Vibro cups, but due to massive amounts of ca, the driver actually took some damage. It's still intact enough, but I don't really recommend this method unless you're really careful (or if Grado changed their installation method since 2006). My next go was way slower, because this driver is still functional. I wanted to try the method where you push the driver through the back of the housing. I noticed that the tabs inside aren't really touching the back of the driver, which had me puzzled. I guess they're there to prevent the driver from going too far in if it comes loose? Just to be sure I removed them anyways, and started carefully applying pressure to the driver. No matter how hard I turned the clamp, there was no movement. I was very careful not to apply too much pressure, as I could see the (unassuring) thickness of the ABS-plastic on my defect driver. New tactics included poking carefully around with a small paper knife with fresh blades. Trying to slit between the driver and housing from the back, proved too messy and potentially lethal to the driver. It was first when I started carefully cutting into the slit in the front that things started happening. I could feel results almost instantly, as the blade cut into the ca and started comming through on the back. The sharp, straight and flexible blade really did the job wonderfully. I didn't even get up to get my trusty old scalpel, which is the sharpest and best cutting tool in my workshop. The cutting was fast, and guiding it was easy without damaging the driver or the housing. When cutting, some parts didn't come entirely loose. Carefully applying pressure indicated where the driver was still stuck. When I got my driver out, it revealed an almost 2mm high ridge of ca on the inside. It turns out that when assembling, Grado has put the driver face down on a flat surface, and then put the housing (also face down) over it before adding generous amounts of ca between the two from the back. Unless Grado has changed their installation method and/or glue, this is what I, from my limited experience on the topic, would recommend for liberating plastic drivers. I hope this proves useful to someone
Regarding woodies, I'm in the process of getting CNCed some test housings for my new SR-60is. Are there any recommendations regarding this?
- Should I try to keep the same internal volume, or increase/decrease it to some extent?
- I'm considering changing the vent diameter. Does anyone have experience with widening or narrowing this part of the design? I've seen a lot of designs that seems to be wider, and I would love some feedback on how it's working out!
- Do I really need the collar on the end of the cups? My theory is that they're there for stiffening the housing to prevent vibrations, but does it really do this effectively?
- My material options at the moment are Oak and Ash wood. Does anyone have experience with these types of wood regarding strength and sound quality? I know the oak is somewhat brittle, so I've decided to go with a one-piece design similar to the Vibro cups aswell as 3-5mm wall thickness for best possible strength and integrity.
- I'm playing around with some design ideas. One is to make an internal rounded collar towards the grille to smoothen the airflow and possibly prevent unwanted resonance. Any thoughts or experience regarding this?
- Can anyone refer me to a source that sell the stiffest possible metal grilles similar to the high-end Grado ones? Stainless is preferred.
- Does anyone have the measurements for the one-piece Grado woodies?
Lastly, would anyone be willing to help me get one or two Sony MDR-7506 headbands and ship them to Norway? Trewaudio.com are completely ignoring my email requests
I would of course pay for everything and in advance (paypal).
EDIT: A little later on I liberated some SR-60i drivers. The newer enclosures are surely sitting closer/tighter to the driver, so it did take more time to liberate newer i-drivers with my technique. Still it did work quite successful, but now I'm thinking that people might just aswell use the technique from the Turbulent Labs guide.