The All-New WA7 Fireflies from Woo Audio
Jan 27, 2021 at 1:32 AM Post #722 of 726
My WA7 will no longer detect as a DAC in Windows. Tried multiple PC's, and multiple cables. I've emailed Woo Audio, but after finding this thread I think I'm doomed. The problem used to start with it not detecting after a reboot of my PC, and if I left it on for 3+ hours, it would finally detect. Now, I can't get anything. Can anyone recommend a decent little DAC to pair with it as I do enjoy the AMP's sound. Thanks!

Edit: Sorry to necro this old thread.
 
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Jan 30, 2021 at 9:51 PM Post #723 of 726
Welp, picked up a Topping D10s in silver to replace the dead DAC in the WA7. Matches pretty damn nicely I must say. I also feel it's an upgrade from the built in WA7 Dac. Would recommend.
 

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May 16, 2021 at 10:18 PM Post #725 of 726
It's not a driver issue HiFi - it's a hardware issue of some sort. I contacted WA about this almost 2 years ago but was quoted something a bit more than I thought I should have to pay to get it corrected. I have found a workaround though to getting mine working... I power it up disconnected (USB) and leave it on for 30-45 minutes. After it's been on and doing nothing for that period of time I plug it back in and it seems to detect properly again. The only option I'm seeing is using some other DAC which I've been thinking about the whole year+ I've been having this issue. This happens with multiple PCs and using multiple USB cables and even in multiple locations. When I go to headphone meetups I make sure to arrive early so I can let my amp warm up and be detected on the machine.
For anyone else that comes across this issue (this is one of the first results for the symptoms) with a Gen 1 WA7 this is caused by a common failure of the C-Media CM6631A USB controller. A few other devices using this controller have the same issue (Schiit Modi 2 and Emotiva DC-1 for example).

I sure was not going to send it back for a $500USD repair from the other side of the world.
This can be repaired for about $20USD in parts if you are handy with a soldering iron.

You will need a replacement CM6631A, I brought mine here:
https://www.semiconductorstore.com/cart/pc/viewPrd.asp?idproduct=48282
You will need hot air tools to desolder the CM6631A QFP100 package, or a pack of chipquik (I used this and its cheap and very easy).
You'll also want a good soldering iron with both pointed and flat tips, solder, flux and a solder sucker.
A magnifying glass to check the tiny pins for bridging after you solder them would also help.

Watch a few videos on using the chipquik and soldering surface mount components, lots of flux makes things easier.
Alternately, if you go into an electronics repair store with the board and CM6631A its probably 15 minutes work for a professional.

The screws to get into the unit are hidden under the magnetic top cover, they are an unusual 7 lobe security screw.
You can either find the correct driver, or destroy them getting them out and replace them with normal screws, I chose this option to allow easy access again in future.

You need to desolder 4 wires, and the 6 contacts on the volume pot to get the PCB out of the case. Leave the volume pot screwed to the case, desolder it and lift the board off it. The DAC section of the board is under a metal shield which is soldered to the PCB at 4 points, you will need to remove this as well.

Overall, about an hours work and $50 for me to repair, including the CM6631A, chipquick, and some replacements for the silly security screws.
Given that I'm sure Woo Audio knows exactly what causes this its rather rubbish that their only repair option is a very expensive upgrade to the Gen 2.
 
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