Hey guys, joining a bit late here. Though I'm not lacking in experience, I've got a couple dumb questions trying to better grasp about my upcoming custom Infinity amp. This was meant as a PM to @SonicTrance but I thought I'd post it here so the answers can help others too.
So do you mean that with all the diverse types of tubes I specified (EL34 series stock and others with adapters), the only thing that needs to be adjusted for optimal performance is the grid bias from 40-60mA? I thought I was adjusting the voltage not currernt? And this range should even provide close to the high voltage demands for the EL12 Spez down to the very low current draw of EL32?
For adjusting the bias, here's what I understand. Please correct anything that's wrong.
Turn on the amp without tubes and measure with an external DMM (with its' max voltage set to at least 100v) a voltage for the desired tube to roll in according to the sheet you provide. After turning it on with tubes in, fine tune to make sure the meter on the amp is in the center at around 50mA. This trimmer adjustment changes the grid voltage bias but not the current so the external DMM meter will show the difference of voltage while the mA meter will stay the same... except for extreme adjustments needed like for the EL32 this also subsequently causes the mA meter to fall down to 40 mA.
But then if I fine tune the bias with the voltage trimmers on top, how does this correlate with the current on the mA meters? Also after it's on am I supposed to make sure those needles are in the middle, or that the external DMM doesn't drift to the wrong voltage?
If an old tube were to arc / explode, would having the volume down prevent damage to the headphone drivers? If it happens while listening, does the amp have any circuit that prevents or minimizes such loud boom from reaching the headphones?
For the switches, since mine would have a pre-amp, speaker and headphone connections, mine would have a pre-amp and output impedance switch, but not selector switch, right?
Finally, about the 5-min. thing. What's the shortest amount of time you could still recommend between cool down & then waiting time after voltage adjustment sessions? I'm a bit impulsive or ADD and can't see myself waiting so long consistently, LOL.
You can run the output tubes from 40mA up to 60mA. But 50 is the sweet spot.
Hi Tomas, I've been meaning to get back to you to clarify a few things.after you have adjusted the grid voltage without tubes installed, turned off the amp and waited 5 min, inserted the tubes and power on. You watch the mA meters on the amp as the tubes warm up and start conducting. You can then fine tune the bias point with the trimmers while watching the mA meters so the tubes draw the amount of current we want, which is 4mA for the input and 50 for the output tubes, except for the EL32 which you need to run cooler at 40mA.
So do you mean that with all the diverse types of tubes I specified (EL34 series stock and others with adapters), the only thing that needs to be adjusted for optimal performance is the grid bias from 40-60mA? I thought I was adjusting the voltage not currernt? And this range should even provide close to the high voltage demands for the EL12 Spez down to the very low current draw of EL32?
For adjusting the bias, here's what I understand. Please correct anything that's wrong.
Turn on the amp without tubes and measure with an external DMM (with its' max voltage set to at least 100v) a voltage for the desired tube to roll in according to the sheet you provide. After turning it on with tubes in, fine tune to make sure the meter on the amp is in the center at around 50mA. This trimmer adjustment changes the grid voltage bias but not the current so the external DMM meter will show the difference of voltage while the mA meter will stay the same... except for extreme adjustments needed like for the EL32 this also subsequently causes the mA meter to fall down to 40 mA.
But then if I fine tune the bias with the voltage trimmers on top, how does this correlate with the current on the mA meters? Also after it's on am I supposed to make sure those needles are in the middle, or that the external DMM doesn't drift to the wrong voltage?
If an old tube were to arc / explode, would having the volume down prevent damage to the headphone drivers? If it happens while listening, does the amp have any circuit that prevents or minimizes such loud boom from reaching the headphones?
For the switches, since mine would have a pre-amp, speaker and headphone connections, mine would have a pre-amp and output impedance switch, but not selector switch, right?
Finally, about the 5-min. thing. What's the shortest amount of time you could still recommend between cool down & then waiting time after voltage adjustment sessions? I'm a bit impulsive or ADD and can't see myself waiting so long consistently, LOL.