[L0rdGwyn]

Tubewise, I guess this compatibility spreadsheet wouldn’t quite correlate with the DIY Aegis. Obviously the 3 amp rectifier’s, but how would this impact on the other tube choices?

Only difference would be the DIY cannot use 3A rectifiers, everything else will apply.

 

[L0rdGwyn]

Updated my reserved post on the first page of the thread with some additional specs and a link to the tube compatibility spreadsheet. Let me know if you see any that have been confirmed / denied and haven't been included, I'll update accordingly. I've omitted some low power tubes (e.g., EL33) until I've tested them with different rectifiers. I have a pair of these on the way.

 

[khaine1711]

Updated my reserved post on the first page of the thread with some additional specs and a link to the tube compatibility spreadsheet. Let me know if you see any that have been confirmed / denied and haven't been included, I'll update accordingly. I've omitted some low power tubes (e.g., EL33) until I've tested them with different rectifiers. I have a pair of these on the way.

Wow Gz37 is compatible with the DIY Aegis?... time to grab one.

EL156 and 807 tubes aren't there yet in the sheet. I think from the DIY thread, El41 should work too.

 

[L0rdGwyn]

Wow Gz37 is compatible with the DIY Aegis?... time to grab one.

EL156 and 807 tubes aren't there yet in the sheet. I think from the DIY thread, El41 should work too.

Good call I'll add them. Let me look over EL41 one more time.

 

[L0rdGwyn]

@khaine1711 sorry GZ37 isn't DIY compatible, it's a 2.8A heater.

 

[AnyDave]

I was looking at a pair of the red base RCA 5691s, and one is missing the centering pin on the bottom of the tube. The seller said it is fully functional. Is this true, or should I look for another pair of tubes?

I have tubes with broken centering pins that work just fine, but I always add guide pin adapters to prevent me from putting them in wrong.

If you have a 3D printer (or a friend with one) you can just print one out. That's what I did. I can send you (or anybody else) the file if you'd like.

 

[khaine1711]

Good call I'll add them. Let me look over EL41 one more time.

On that note, could you please check 4654, 4699 and El12 spez?. There are all quite rare nowadays, but I've seen a few people directly substituting metal base 4654 and 4699 for EL34.

 

[ckhirnigs113]

Updated my reserved post on the first page of the thread with some additional specs and a link to the tube compatibility spreadsheet. Let me know if you see any that have been confirmed / denied and haven't been included, I'll update accordingly. I've omitted some low power tubes (e.g., EL33) until I've tested them with different rectifiers. I have a pair of these on the way.

That tube compatibility spreadsheet is awesome! It's so helpful to have all that info in one place. Thank you so much for taking the time to create it.

 

[Toonartist]

Are those new production Tung-Sol KT120, KT150 & KT170 still ok to use as well?

 

[L0rdGwyn]

On that note, could you please check 4654, 4699 and El12 spez?. There are all quite rare nowadays, but I've seen a few people directly substituting metal base 4654 and 4699 for EL34.

4654 is equivalent to EL39, so it's compatible. I can't find a datasheet with triode curves for the 4699 or EL12spez. Highly likely they will work, but no curves available to say for sure. If you find some, send them to me.

Are those new production Tung-Sol KT120, KT150 & KT170 still ok to use as well?

These are KT88 equivalents with higher maximum ratings. In theory, they should work, but given their high maximum ratings, the scale of the triode curves makes it difficult for me to say with 100% accuracy. It's possible they might bias at higher currents than a KT88. Honestly, I don't think there is much benefit to be gained from using them over a KT88. This is probably one that would be best tested in the real world before recommending.

 

[Toonartist]

4654 is equivalent to EL39, so it's compatible. I can't find a datasheet with triode curves for the 4699 or EL12spez. Highly likely they will work, but no curves available to say for sure. If you find some, send them to me.



These are KT88 equivalents with higher maximum ratings. In theory, they should work, but given their high maximum ratings, the scale of the triode curves makes it difficult for me to say with 100% accuracy. It's possible they might bias at higher currents than a KT88. Honestly, I don't think there is much benefit to be gained from using them over a KT88. This is probably one that would be best tested in the real world before recommending.

Noted. It wasn’t something I was considering soon. Too many others to try first

Thanks

 

[Monsterzero]

Thanks for the info! I didn't notice that the adapter included the cap and wire. Would the correct adapter type be a EL34>EL38 to use in the Aegis?

A little footnote to add....

When using tubes with a top cap, once you have securely attached the adapter, do not try and remove the adapter and wire from the cap. The top cap can and will get stuck in the adapter, ripping a hole in the tube.

Don't ask me how I know.

Just buy new adapters.

 

[Toonartist]

A little footnote to add....

When using tubes with a top cap, once you have securely attached the adapter, do not try and remove the adapter and wire from the cap. The top cap can and will get stuck in the adapter, ripping a hole in the tube.

Don't ask me how I know.

Just buy new adapters.

Exactly. That happened when I was testing a new backup EL39.

The cap came off the tube but there was enough wire on the tube to create a hook. I then soldered a skinny solid core wire to it. Cleaned the glass and cap and used some superglue gel to glue the cap back to the tube after threading the new wire through the desolder hole in the cap. Re-soldered and trimmed the excess of the wire. Back working now

The Mullards are a lot stronger than the EL39s but tend to leave them all in the adapters until they die. I also check for loose tops now and repair as above beforehand.

 

[Monsterzero]

Exactly. That happened when I was testing a new backup EL39.

The cap came off the tube but there was enough wire on the tube to create a hook. I then soldered a skinny solid core wire to it. Cleaned the glass and cap and used some superglue gel to glue the cap back to the tube after threading the new wire through the desolder hole in the cap. Re-soldered and trimmed the excess of the wire. Back working now

The Mullards are a lot stronger than the EL39s but tend to leave them all in the adapters until they die. I also check for loose tops now and repair as above beforehand.

My EL51 met a less productive fate. The trashbin.

Footnote #2, the EL51 was for my Lampizator DAC, not the Aegis. I asked Keenan about compatability with the Aegis, but it was not determined one way or the other.

 

[Toonartist]

That’s unfortunate

The guy I bought the EL39 from said he’d replace it if I wasn’t able to repair it. It was a pair of backups so I needed to test for a few hours just to be sure they’re ok. The lesson learned was to check the tops before use now and preserve as much of the wire as possible with a proactive repair!