Reviews by Alcophone

Alcophone

Headphoneus Supremus
Pros: Sounds pretty nice
Opamp swapping can help
Compact size
Stacks with other Burson products
Cons: Can cause speaker pop when turned on
Can screech when turned on
Holes in binding posts don't line up
One binding post wasn't fastened properly
Unit wobbles
12 AWG speaker cables don't fit
LED on chassis too bright
LED on power brick too bright
Huge power brick
No manual and broken link on website
Burson Bang Review


Disclaimer

Burson Audio reached out to me about their Fun & Bang review tour. You can find my review of the Fun here. My review partner mentioned that he would probably want to keep the Fun, and so I went into this review with the expectation of keeping the Bang. Nevertheless, this did not influence my opinion of the Bang.


Summary

The Burson Bang in its stock configuration for $499 sounds quite nice and is definitely a big improvement over my cheap AV receiver. Swapping the stock opamp for a Sparkos SS3602 yields excellent imaging, but does not elevate the Bang in all areas. The Schiit Vidar is not that much more expensive, but sounds better than the stock Bang in every way. The Bang I received had some embarrassing build quality issues and caused some concern when being turned on repeatedly.


Externals

The Burson Bang is a power amplifier for speakers with one stereo pair of RCA inputs, and two pairs of speaker binding posts to connect a pair of speakers to. It has a pretty big external power supply, but can also be powered by a 4-pin Molex connector. That's because its form factor allows mounting it inside a PC case. While I can see someone do that with the Burson Play (a DAC with headphone amplifier) or the Burson Fun (a headphone amplifier), it seems a bit far fetched for a speaker amplifier given the need to route four speaker wires to somewhere outside of the case. But if you want to, you can. The form factor is definitely convenient if you want to use a Play or Fun as a preamp for the Bang.

Front.jpg

Back.jpg

The power switch is located in the back, and a blue LED on the front indicates whether the unit is powered on. That LED is in the center of the unit instead of lining up with the Fun's, appears to have a slightly different shade of blue, and is much brighter from a wider variety of angles.

Stacking.jpg

Size comparison.jpg

The Bang's power supply puts out 12 V and up to 10 amps in contrast to the Fun's 12 V and up to 6 amps, so the Bang's power supply can be used with the Fun, but not vice versa. The power supplies are otherwise completely different: The Bang's DC plug is angled, the Fun's is straight, the Bang's power supply has a pretty bright blue light, the Fun's a dimmer green light, and for some reason, the two-prong plug of the Bang's power supply cable does not have the usual holes, unlike the Fun's. In terms of cable lengths, they are roughly the same, though.

Barrel Plugs.jpg

Plugs.jpg

Power supply lights.jpg Power supply labels.jpg


Internals

Just like with the Fun, the case's top has a sticker on the back that points out the location of the opamp. It also describes two configurations of two DIP switches on the PCB, labeled Low Input and High Input. My review unit came set to High Input. The only explanation I could find is on Burson's web site for the Bang. An image mentions a "selectable gain buffer stage". The text above it says "Bang has a built-in buffer stage with selectable impedance levels. From high-end DAC and preamps to portable players and smartphones, Bang matches perfectly with any source components, giving you the perfect performance and volume control every time." There's also a link to https://www.bursonaudio.com/impedance-matching-in-cable/, but that just redirects to Burson's home page, like apparently any other page that does not exist.
I'm assuming low input is meant for non-standard sources like a phone, and high input is meant for a proper preamp. Unfortunately, the Bang did not come with a manual, nor can one be downloaded.

PCB.jpg Instructions.jpg

The Bang's power supply consumes 0.8 W by itself (Fun: 0.4 W) and draws 0.02 A (Fun: < 0.01 A). When the Bang is on, but idling, it consumes about 10 W (Fun: 10 W, Vidar: 48 W) and draws about 0.15 A (Fun: 0.14 A, Vidar: 0.55 A). In use with the satellite speakers of the Yamaha NS-SP1800BL 5.1 set with the volume set pretty high, it consumed about 15 W (Fun with MrSpeakers Ether Flow: 10 W, Vidar with ELAC BS 403: 54 W) and drew about 0.25 A (Fun: 0.14 A, Vidar: 0.61 A). All figures were measured with a P4460 Kill A Watt.


Accessories

The package includes a pair of 2 ft long mono RCA cables, a replacement fuse and an allen wrench. That is because Burson encourages you to replace the opamp in order to change the sound to your liking - the solid state equivalent to tube rolling.

Accessories.jpg


Dislikes

I have two big issues with the Bang. One is the build quality: not only does this amp wobble quite a bit (see videos below), it's also the only audio product I have ever used that came apart when unplugging something. During initial testing of the amp I used my cheap Yamaha satellite speakers and encountered some distortion that I thought might be the result of the satellites not being able to handle a full range signal. So I inserted a pair of Harrison Lab's FMOD crossovers into the RCA jacks of the Bang in order to attenuate the bass. I then realized the distortion was the result of other devices connected to the Yggdrasil, shorting their inputs when turned off, which the Yggy does not like. Having sorted that out, I wanted to resume testing without the crossovers, but when I unplugged one of them, the ground ring of one of the Bang's RCA jacks got ripped out. I was able to remove it from the crossover with pliers, and push it back in, after which it stayed put when unplugging regular RCA cables. The crossover plugs appear to have a rather strong grip, but this still should not have happened.

Crossovers.jpg RCA Ground.jpg

In addition, one of the binding posts was not properly secured on the inside, which meant that loosening the binding post cap also turned the actual binding post, which is soldered to a wire on the inside. Turning the cap meant putting tension on the solder joint and twisting the wire. Not a good feeling. It's relatively easy to fix after opening up the amp, but not everyone will feel comfortable doing so. Even after fixing that issue, the holes in the binding posts aren't lining up straight. That probably would have caused issues for me, but "luckily" the holes are too small to accept my 12 AWG speaker cables (let alone the 10 AWG ones I normally use), so I had to use banana plugs anyway.

Binding Posts.jpg

The second big issue is that the amp is not properly muting its outputs when turning on - at least when being turned again shortly after having gotten turned off. Without speakers attached, the unit itself produces a relatively loud, nasty screech. With speakers attached, a disturbingly loud popping sound from the speakers joins the cacophony. I don't like worrying about destroying my speakers every time I turn on the amplifier.





As far as I am concerned, this unit should not have made it past QC.

I suppose it's nice that the amp has a variable gain stage, and the need for two switches is probably due to the Bang's dual mono design. However, locating them on the inside of the unit is extremely inconvenient. The Singxer SU-1 DDC also has DIP switches, but they are positioned on the bottom of the PCB, along with a cutout in the bottom part of the chassis. While still inconvenient, at least you wouldn't have to remove four screws to reach those switches. Luckily, most people won't really need this feature, and some of those who do won't need to reconfigure it on a regular basis.

The LED is too bright, depending on the viewing angle. Burson is not alone with this issue, it's a well known phenomenon with Schiit's products as well. Apparently dispersing light evenly is hard. Always good to have some LightDims handy!

Glare Bang.jpg

Glare Fun.jpg

Some criticisms remain the same as with the Fun: I much prefer devices with integrated power supplies that accept regular power cords with C13 connectors. The power switch in the back feels good, but this type of switch is usually illuminated when turned on - not so here, which I find irritating. The provided allen wrench is tiny, and you have to remove two screws in the front and two in the back before you can remove the top to replace the opamp. Maybe thumb screws would have been more inviting and durable.


Likes

The Bang sounds quite good for its size, even with the stock opamp. It's nice to be able to improve or customize the sound by swapping the opamp. The chassis is relatively compact and stacks well with the Fun or the Play, which makes for a neat bedroom setup.


Test Setup

Music
  • Amber Rubarth - Novocaine (FLAC 24/192)
  • Alexis Cole - Whippoorwill (FLAC 24/192)
  • Black String - Seven Beats (FLAC 24/96)
  • Cécile McLorin Salvant - If A Girl Isn’t Pretty (FLAC 24/96)
  • Sarah Jarosz - Green Lights (FLAC 24/96)
  • Marian Hill - Talk To Me (FLAC 24/96)
  • Nils Lofgren - Keith Don't Go (FLAC 16/44)
  • Beck - The Golden Age (FLAC 24/192)
  • Lindsay Lou & the Flatbellys - Smooth & Groovy (FLAC 16/44)
  • Sia - Breathe Me (MP3 from Amazon.com)
  • Deftones - Prince (FLAC 24/96)
  • Muddy Waters - My Home Is In The Delta (FLAC 24/192)
Digital audio
  • Microsoft Surface Pro 4 > Foobar 2000 > WASAPI (event) > USB > Sabrent HB-UMP3 USB-Hub > iFi iDefender > AmazonBasics USB 2.0 cable, 6 ft > Schiit Yggdrasil
Analog audio
  • (Amplifier - see Configurations below) > Mediabridge SPC-BP2-12 Banana Plugs > Speaker cable, 12 AWG, ~15 ft > ELAC BS 403
Isolation
  • Isoacoustics GAIA III > Dynaudio Stand 20 filled with ~10 lbs of sand > Isoacoustics Aperta > ELAC BS 403
Power
  • Audioquest NRG Edison (15 amps) > Pangea AC 9SE MKII (1 m) > Audioquest Niagara 1000
  • Audioquest Niagara 1000, bank 1 > Volex 17605 Shielded Power Cord, 14 AWG, 3 m > Schiit Yggdrasil
  • Audioquest Niagara 1000, bank 2 > Tripp-Lite PS240810 > iFi AC iPurifier + iFi iPower > iFi iDefender
Configurations

1) Yamaha RX-V377 (AV receiver)

Set to 8 ohms, fronts set to large, other channels disabled, calibrated with YPAO microphone, EQ disabled, "straight mode" enabled.
  • Niagara 1000 High Current Outlet > Tripp-Lite Extension Cord, 14 AWG, 6 ft > Yamaha RX-V377
  • Schiit Yggdrasil > Kabeldirekt Stereo RCA, 6 ft > Yamaha RX-V377 Audio input
2) Schiit Saga (preamp) with LISST "tube", Burson Bang (power amp) with NJR NJM5532D opamp

Schiit Saga in active mode.
  • Niagara 1000 High Current Outlet > Tripp-Lite Extension Cord, 14 AWG, 6 ft > Burson Bang
  • Niagara 1000 bank 2 > Volex 17605 Shielded Power Cord, 14 AWG, 3 m > Schiit Saga
  • Schiit Yggdrasil > Kabeldirekt Stereo RCA, 3 ft > Schiit Saga > Kabeldirekt Stereo RCA, 3 ft > Burson Bang
3) Schiit Saga (preamp) with LISST "tube", Schiit Vidar (power amp)

Schiit Saga in active mode.
  • Niagara 1000 High Current Outlet > Tripp-Lite Power Cord, 14 AWG, 10 ft or 10 ft > Schiit Vidar
  • Niagara 1000 bank 2 > Volex 17605 Shielded Power Cord, 14 AWG, 3 m > Schiit Saga
  • Schiit Yggdrasil > Kabeldirekt Stereo RCA, 3 ft > Schiit Saga > Kabeldirekt Stereo RCA, 3 ft > Schiit Vidar
4) Schiit Saga (preamp) with LISST "tube", Burson Bang with Sparkos SS3602 opamp

Like 2), but with the Sparkos SS3602 opamp instead of the stock NJR NJM5532D in the Bang.

NJR NJM5532D.jpg

No opamp.jpg

Burson SS3602.jpg


Test Results

Word of caution: I normally hear these speakers with the Rythmik Audio F12G subwoofer to fill in the low end, but for this comparison I did not want to add the hassle and uncertainty of tuning the subwoofer to match each amp's gain and phase. The ELAC BS 403 are rated at 41 Hz according to IEC 268-5, which appears to be more lenient than the usual +/- 3 dB deviation allowed. I definitely recommend a subwoofer with these speakers, but they are usable without one. Still, being used to hearing them with a subwoofer means the setups will all sound lacking to some degree, compared to what I'm used to.


Setup 1: Yamaha RX-V377 ($300)

This is actually the first time that I have used my ELAC BS 403s with this amp. When I first got the Schiit Vidar, it performed so much better with even my cheap satellite speakers that I never bothered to go back to the RX-V377 when auditioning speakers. I also didn't have the power conditioner, speaker stands, etc. at the time, nor the mighty Yggdrasil DAC, so I was curious to find out what all this extra tinkering might do to the sound.

The RX-V377 pushes 2x 70 W into 8 ohms, and has an 8 ohms and a 6 ohms setting. As far as I know, the latter merely limits the amp in order to protect itself from overheating, which is unlikely to have a positive effect on the sound as long as you don't crank up the volume all the way, so I eventually set it to 8 ohms even when I was using it with satellite speakers rated at 6 ohms. The ELAC BS 403s however are rated at a nominal 4 ohms, down to 3.2 ohms at 260 Hz - not the easiest load to drive. So I was definitely worried that the RX-V377 would struggle with getting the BS 403s to a proper loudness level. Luckily, it only got pretty warm, but not exactly hot, and never shut off during testing.

Note: I did not want to bother disconnecting and later reconnecting all the various other sources connected to it, which resulted in a noticeable ground loop in this arrangement. It might be possible to get better results from this amp.

I was positively surprised to hear decent imaging and a well defined sound stage from a $300 5.1 AV Receiver. I have definitely heard better, though, especially apparent with Nils Lofgren's Keith Don't Go. Overall, I did not hear anything terribly offensive. On the other hand, the experience also wasn't engaging - no involuntary foot tapping, head bobbing or grinning occurred. There was some harshness or glare to the treble, some graininess to the upper mids, and a sluggishness to the bass that I did not appreciate. Yggy's ability to make instruments sound natural and real did not come to light with this amp. Clapping didn't sound right, pianos were unpleasant to listen to, female vocals were not as silky and visceral as I'm used to. I can't help but wonder whether the RX-V377's DSP is ever truly bypassed. I found myself eager to move on to the next amp after a while - this setup is a bit fatiguing.


Setup 2: Schiit Saga with LISST ($389) + Burson Bang with NJR NJM5532D ($499)

Burson describes this little power amp as a "40W PC Stereo Power Amp". PC might mean "personal computer", because if you really wanted to mount this power amp into your computer's case, and power it from your computer's power supply, you could. Or it could mean "per channel". Either way, the stated 2x 40 W refer to a 4 ohm load where other manufacturers usually use an 8 ohm load as the standard for an amp's power rating. Into 8 ohms, the Bang is rated at 2x 29 W. Luckily my speakers are rated at 4 ohms, and the Bang's 2x 40 W are right on the low end of what ELAC recommends for them.

In this setup, there was no ground loop to be heard. That may or may not be the biggest reason for the Bang's ability to reveal a lot more detail in the ambience of Amber Rubarth's Novocaine - we're off to a good start. With the stock NJM5532D opamp, the Burson Bang costs $499 - 2/3 more than the RX-V377, while also requiring a separate preamp to control the volume. AV receivers are very versatile, but Burson had the entire budget available for the comparatively simple task of amplifying a stereo pair of RCA inputs into two sets of speaker taps - nothing else.

And it shows - the Bang is in a different league compared to the underfunded AV receiver tested prior. It sounds much cleaner, fuller, more pleasant. The glare is gone, the low end is on point, Yggy's realism is preserved, the imaging is more concise, cymbals shimmer appropriately and head bobbing ensues. This is nice! Not spectacular, but quite pleasant indeed. It's plenty loud with the Saga at 1pm, the Bang barely warm. Plenty of headroom left!

Well done! Small as it is, this sounds like a grown-up amp. Right now, I'm not convinced I could tell it apart from the Schiit Vidar, but I also haven't heard it in two weeks while I was comparing other gear. Let's check...


Setup 3: Schiit Saga with LISST ($389) + Schiit Vidar ($699)

Bang vs Vidar is a case of David vs Goliath. The Vidar has over 5x the physical volume of the Bang (not taking into account the Bang's external power brick), weighs 4x as much and delivers 2x 100 W vs. the Bang's 2x 29 W - into 8 ohms. Into 4 ohms, the power rating doubles to 2x 200 W vs. the Bang's 2x 40 W. Both are single ended stereo power amps with a class A/B design, though with its additional single balanced input the Vidar can also be used as a monoblock to put even more power into just one channel. And its power supply is integrated. 4x the weight, 5x the size, 5x the power (into 4 ohms) - but at only 1.4x the cost (not taking into account tax and shipping).

Is it worth it? In short: yes. Everything the Bang does well, the Vidar does noticeably better. Sharper transients, silkier voices, more focused imaging, a sound stage with depth, a livelier sound and more bass slam - all while sounding positively effortless. The Bang sounds pretty, the Vidar beautiful - definitely similar, but significantly more refined, more mature.

The Vidar gets quite a bit warmer. And surprisingly, I need to push the Saga's volume a bit further to reach the same volume level as with the Bang.

I still can't believe how good it sounds since I have had the Vidar for over a year now, and got the speakers not long after. But the power conditioner, speakers stands, isolation devices, the DAC in this location, the preamp - all of these are quite recent additions. And they had a profound impact that I am still getting used to.

So I feel reminded of my Burson Fun review. After hearing it with just its stock opamps, I would have recommended going with the Schiit Jotunheim instead, for just a little more. Similarly, I'd go with the Schiit Vidar over the Burson Bang with the stock opamp, assuming you have the room. But after I heard the Fun with Sparkos SS3601s opamps, everything changed. Now, while I did not like the Fun with stock opamps, I do like the Bang with its stock opamp. But who knows - will a Sparkos SS3602 tilt the balance in favor of Burson's baby yet again? Well, I have two of them in my Gustard H20. So let's do a little surgery and find out.


Setup 4: Schiit Saga with LISST ($389) + Burson Bang ($499) with Sparkos SS3602 ($80)

Well! I have mixed feelings about this one. The SS3602 is a drastic improvement over the stock opamp, especially in terms of imaging. It also casts an impressively wide and tall sound stage, and seemes to provide a bit tighter bass. On the other hand the sound stage still lacks depth compared to the Vidar, and transients are still not as crisp as I would like.

Here's my dilemma: with the stock opamp, the Burson Bang offers a decent, balanced presentation. With the Sparkos SS3602 it excels in some areas, while remaining a bit mediocre in other areas. Like a slightly burnt pizza with super fresh ingredients, there's some disappointment because it's obvious how good it could have been, as opposed to what the average next door pizza place provides: just solid pizza, neither bad nor amazing.

Mind you, this is based on listening to the Bang right after enjoying the Schiit Vidar, so the memory of what could have been is still fresh. I could imagine that over time, in regular use, the experience settles to one that is simply somewhere in between the Bang with stock opamp and the Vidar. But then we're already so close to the Vidar in terms of price that I would still recommend to just go with that one if you can.


Conclusion

The Bang is a capable amplifier that I'll happily pair with a Burson Fun in my bedroom setup. If you happen to have a good dual opamp lying around that is currently unemployed, and you catch the Bang on sale (like the 20% off Burson had during Black Friday, or the 33% off at Partsconnexion), it might be wise to go get one. Or if you're short on space. Or if you care a lot about looks and want a speaker amp to go with your existing Burson Fun, or Play, or Playmate, or Swing (can I have a Fun with a remote? Shall we call it Joy?).

Outside of these constraints, however, the Bang's regular base price of $499 is already so close to the Schiit Vidar at $699 that I would heartily recommend spending a bit extra by getting the Vidar instead. Even compared to a Bang with the Sparkos SS3602 opamp, the Vidar is a significant upgrade well worth the cost. That's a US-centric perspective not taking into account shipping and sales tax, so definitely do the math yourself.

Either way, I raise an eyebrow at this bold claim on Burson's website: "Bang is like a cage fighter that loves poetry and bonsai. You will never get bored of Bang and it will knock out any challenger under $2000."
Alcophone
Alcophone
No, I may actually have tested them at work first, and at home I have good power strips / power conditioners with under/overvoltage detection, and they never tripped. My Killawatt also indicates no issue, getting up to 125V, sometimes more like 110V.
Alcophone
Alcophone
Also: "A few days ago our power supply supplier has contacted us, they informed us that a batched of their power supply has a defected the rush current protection the supposed to stop the power up rush current did not work. So, after we tested in our workshop we also notice that without the protective circuit our PC-100 power supply has will be damage. When you see the LED light flash that is when the PS has failed and also the same time damaged our PC-100 and hence you also hear the noise."
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Alcophone
Alcophone
Of course, the review unit had that buzzing issue as well, but that power supply is fine, so there's more to it than just a bad PSU. But maybe Burson has tested the PSU in that one with a defective PSU. I never got an explanation for that mystery.
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Alcophone

Headphoneus Supremus
Pros: Very engaging and resolving when using the Sparkos SS3601 opamps

Improved imaging in my speaker system when used as a preamp

Volume knob has a good size and is very smooth

Power switch is easy to locate by touch and satisfying to operate

The protective muting relay disengages quickly after turning the unit on
Cons: Somewhat harsh and boomy with the stock opamps

External power brick with a relatively short cable

Volume knob indicator is often covered by the knob itself

Design somewhat compromised in order to fit into a computer case

Occasional buzzing sound with no apparent reason or reliable fix
Burson Fun Review


Disclaimer

Burson Audio reached out to me about their Fun & Bang review tour. There were some misunderstandings about the conditions, and I may get to keep the Burson Fun, or not. Either way, that did not influence my review - other than inspiring me to buy a pair of opamps to try with the Burson Fun.


Summary

The Burson Fun in its stock configuration for $299 is a tolerable headphone amplifier and a surprisingly good sounding preamp. But swapping its two single opamps for two Sparkos SS3601 ($40 each) transforms it into possibly the best headphone amplifier I have heard so far, making it wonderfully engaging and very resolving at the same time. My unit was plagued by an occasional buzzing sound with no apparent cause or reliable fix. It also seems to be more sensitive to dirty power than other headphone amplifiers that I have tried.


Externals

The Burson Fun is a headphone amplifier with a 6.35 TRS headphone jack in the front and a preamp with a pair of RCA connectors to connect to a power amp or power speakers in the back. Its main input is a single pair of RCA connectors in the back, but it also has a 3.5 mm TRS jack in the front. When plugging in a source into this front jack, a number of relay clicks can be heard as the unit switches to this input. Inserting or removing a cable into the front plug is the only way to select one of the two inputs. There is also a 3.5 mm TS (mono) input jack in the front that appears to be simply passed through to a 3.5 mm TS (mono) output jack in the back. This only makes sense when taking into account the unit's form factor - it can be mounted in a computer's 5.25 in drive bay and powered by a 4-pin Molex connector - if your power supply still has one, or an adapter for it. I only used the Fun powered with the supplied external power brick. Its cable has a non-polarized 2-prong plug and is therefore not grounded. This might be helpful in avoiding ground loops. The power switch is located in the back, and a blue LED on the front indicates whether the unit is powered on. A volume knob in the front is used to adjust the volume.

01. Box.jpg


Internals

The Burson Fun has a class A power supply, ready to provide full power at any moment, and so its power consumption does not vary with use. When turned on, it consumed 8.8 to 10 W and drew 0.12 to 0.14 A according to my P4460 Kill A Watt. The power brick itself consumed 0.4 W and drew less than 0.01 A. The amp delivers a generous 2.1 W into 32 ohms, but has a fairly high output impedance of 6 ohms. Despite its power and the relatively thin case, it barely gets warm when in use. It contains two single opamps in DIP8 sockets, ready to be swapped out for something better. The underside of the lid features a sticker outlining the circuit board's layout, which helps with locating the opamps and their correct orientation. A beefy ALPS potentiometer can be found behind the volume knob.

03. Open case.jpg 04. Sticker.jpg

05. ALPS pot.jpg


Accessories

The package includes a pair of 2 ft long mono RCA cables, a 6.35 mm to 3.5 mm adapter (described as 6.5 mm to 3.5 mm on the website), a replacement fuse and, uniquely, an allen wrench. That is because Burson encourages you to replace the opamps in order to change the sound to your liking - the solid state equivalent to tube rolling.

02. Accessories.jpg


Dislikes

I much prefer devices with integrated power supplies that accept regular power cords with C13 connectors. Instead, you get a thin fixed length power cord with a chunky power brick attached to it, requiring you to put it somewhere close-ish. Without an integrated power supply, the unit itself feels a bit too light in comparison to, say, the densly packed Schiit Jotunheim.
The power switch in the back feels good, but this type of switch is usually illuminated when turned on - not so here, which I find irritating. From the back, I have to look more closely to determine whether it is turned on. Luckily, that's less common in regular use than in a review situation.
The volume knob's indicator is often not visible because of where it is located on the tapered volume knob, especially when placing the unit to your left.
The provided allen wrench is tiny, and you have to remove two screws in the front and two in the back (and ideally loosen two more on one side) before you can remove the top to replace the opamps. The screws are anodized, resulting in a black oxide layer, which is at risk of being scraped off by the allen wrench. Maybe thumb screws, at least in the front, would have been more inviting and durable.
The aux connector in the front didn't work the first time I used it, but reconnecting the plug fixed that. I probably confused the detection circuitry while enjoying the relay-based soundtrack. There is no indication of which input is selected, which is fine as long as the detection works reliably. Nevertheless, I would prefer a switch over the relay-powered magic.
Basically, I would prefer a redesign of the unit that is not compromised by trying to make it mountable in a PC case. Remove the mic pass through and the mounting holes on each side, replace the aux connector in the front with a second RCA input in the back, add an input selector in the front, integrate power supply into the case and make it more wide than deep.

The included 6.35 mm to 3.5 mm adapter did not provide a secure connection to a Kabeldirekt aux cable I used. One of my regular adapters (either a Sennheiser 549346 or something that looks very similar) instead worked flawlessly. I did not play with the RCA cable much, but it seems to work.

My biggest gripe is hopefully a defect instead of a design flaw. On several occasions, an annoying buzzing sound can be heard in the headphones after turning the unit on. The buzz's volume is independent of the volume knob's position. It seems to occur most when the unit has been powered off for a while. I'm not sure what the best way is to get rid of it, but power cycling the unit a few times seems to do to the trick. You might be able to hear the buzz in one of these recordings:
  1. Burson Fun > Ether Flow > Blue Yeti
  2. Burson Fun > Focusrite 6i6 > amplified in Audacity to roughly match volume with headphones

Likes

The volume knob has a good size given the unit's general dimensions, rotates very smoothly, feels solid and is free of obstacles around it. Many other headphone amplifiers put the headphone jack so close to the volume knob that the headphone cable gets in the way. The volume indicator, when visible at all, has good contrast. I also like that there's no sound at all when the volume is turned all the way down, which is not always the case (looking at you, Audio-GD HE-9). As usual with potentiometers there is some channel imbalance at very low volumes, but this was never a problem at volume levels that I would actually use. It might become a problem with very sensitive earphones/headphones.
While the power switch is in the back, it's easy to locate by touch and satisfying to operate. The power status LED is blue and hidden behind a tiny hole, making it not too bright. A muting relay protects your headphones while the unit is powering on, and disengages after a few seconds - fast enough to not make me impatient, in contrast to the Schiit Jotunheim's muting relay.


Test Setup

Songs: Mostly FLAC files from HDTracks.com and CD rips, mostly acoustic music like Folk and Jazz.
Sources: Microsoft Surface Pro 4 or Apple MacBook Pro
Digital interconnect: 6 ft AmazonBasics USB 2.0 A to B cable
DAC: Topping DX7s in filter mode 4, using its single ended RCA outputs
Analog interconnects: A pair of Audioquest RCA splitters into two 3 ft KabelDirekt RCA stereo cables (unless otherwise noted)
Headphones: MrSpeakers Ether Flow 1.0 with the stock 6 ft 6.35mm DUM cable


Comparisons while using the stock opamps

The stock opamps appear to be NJR NJM5534D, based on the label on the opamp itself. It says JRC, but if you visit njr.com, it says "New Japan Radio Co, Ltd." with "JRC" in the logo (presumably for Japan Radio Co). The Burson website describes the stock option as NE5543, i.e. 3 and 4 are swapped.


Creative Sound Blaster E5 ($200)

The Sound Blaster E5 is a feature-packed portable DAC/amp unit. It has a 3.5 mm TRS line-in and can therefore be used as a headphone amplifier. It also has a 3.5 mm TRS line-out, making it a preamp as well, which I did not test - the volume knob has no absolute position, which is too risky for when using it as a preamp. The E5's output impedance is 2.2 ohms vs. the Fun's 6 ohms. On Massdrop it is specified as delivering just 105 mW into 32 ohms.
For power I used an Anker PowerPort 4 USB power supply with a 6 ft Anker PowerLine+ micro USB cable. I used a 6 ft KabelDirekt stereo RCA to 3.5 mm TRS cable to connect it to the DAC and a Grado Mini Adapter Cable to connect the headphones. I turned off all sound processing in the E5 and set it to high gain. In this comparison, the Burson Fun was already warmed up from prior testing.

Impressions: Generally, the Sound Blaster E5 seemed to be a bit more resolving and smoother than the Fun, but lacks power in the low end. In my notes, I often described the Fun's bass as boomy and its highs as harsh, but it has a fuller low end than the E5. Basically, there's no clear winner here to me.


Yamaha RX-V377 ($300)

The RX-V377 is a 5.1 surround receiver that happens to have a headphone out. Since the Fun is a dedicated headphone amplifier at the same price point, I expected the RX-V377 to be the weakest competitor to the Fun. I turned off all audio processing in the RX-V377.

Impressions: The RX-V377 is not as bad a headphone amplifier as I expected, producing fairly clear sound when using the planar magnetic Ether Flow, with some volume to spare. It does have a disturbing "digital" quality to it, though. There is a noticeable delay compared to the Burson Fun, leading me to believe that the DSP is active at all times, even when it isn't actually manipulating the audio intentionally. The result is a weird rounding of the sound, a lack of definition and musicality. The Burson Fun is clearly the better option here.


Schiit Jotunheim ($400)

The Schiit Jotunheim is a versatile package with a unique and appealing design (to me). Like the Burson Fun it can function as both a headphone amplifier and a preamp, but with adjustable gain levels, balanced input and output, a built-in linear power supply, and an optional DAC module or phono preamp (at extra cost). It is fully balanced, yet its topology allows for single-ended output without any summers in the signal path. With a balanced output power of 5 W into 32 ohms, it is even more powerful than the Burson Fun's 2.1 W, but when using single ended headphones, the Fun beat the Jotunheim's 1.5 W. However, at 16 ohms, the Fun's 1.9 W still lose against the Jotunheim's 2.5 W even when using single ended headphones. Also, the Fun's 6 ohms output impedance is no match for the Jotunheim's exemplary < 0.1 ohms. However, in my particular case, with the very flat 23 ohms of the Ether Flow, neither power nor output impedance should be deciding factors between the two.

Impressions: The Jotunheim sounds noticeably cleaner and is more resolving. Overall, it simply sounds more refined to me. Its only downside is the sound stage, which is generally less wide and flatter than the Fun's sound stage. If you're not interested in rolling opamps and assuming you're not specifically looking for a headphone amp that fits into a computer case, the Jotunheim would get my clear recommendation despite costing a little more. Its flexibility in terms of providing balanced inputs and outputs and variable gain make it the clear winner to me. But if you are interested in rolling opamps, you should read on.


iFi micro iDSD ($600)

The iFi micro iDSD is a portable DAC/amp combo that is quite a bit bulkier and heavier than the Sound Blaster E5. But as a result, it also has oodles of power, especially in its Turbo mode, where it is rated at 4 W into 16 ohms vs. the Fun's 1.9 W. It can be used as a headphone amplifier courtesy of a 3.5 mm TRS line-in, and in contrast to the E5 has a 6.35 mm headphone jack, thus not requiring an adapter for my tests.
I used the Anker PowerPort 4 as a USB power supply and the micro iDSD's standard USB extension cable to plug into (or around?) its unusual male USB connector (that happens to be very useful with OTG cables). Admittedly when I previously used it as a DAC in Turbo mode, it drained its battery more quickly than it was able to charge it, and so isn't completely useful as a desktop headphone amp in this mode. The iFi micro iDSD can also be used as a preamp courtesy of its RCA input jacks. I did not test this because the preamp functionality can be turned off for use as a DAC, and the switch to do so is too easily triggered by accident to be safe. I turned off the iDSD's bass and 3D features, and set the IEMatch selector to high sensitivity to have a bit more range in the volume knob before it gets dangerous.

Impressions: The micro iDSD sounds cleaner, fuller and is more resolving. I find imaging and sound stage to be comparable. In some songs, the iDSD sounded more natural to me.


Gustard H20 ($930 / $800 on Massdrop) with 2x Sparkos SS3602 dual opamps ($80 each)

Like the Fun, the H20 is a headphone amp and preamp, and is also fully class A. However, it is fully balanced, providing one single ended and two balanced inputs, a high and low impedance 6.35mm headphone jack, a 4-pin XLR headphone jack and a stereo pair of two 3-pin XLR headphone jacks. However, for preamp use it only has XLR out, no RCA. While it has three gain settings, they are not all that different, providing limited use.
At 12 W into 32 ohms, you needn't worry about power. Thanks to the relay-stepped attenuator, there's also no channel imbalance, even at low volumes, although there's a pretty big gap between its lowest volume setting (no sound) and second lowest (louder than expected). Due to a translation error, you may find it specified as having an output impedance of 200 ohms, but it's actually ~0.1 ohms for the balanced headphone outs and ~0.05 ohms for the high impedance single ended headphone out (and, interestingly, 50 ohms for the low impedance out).

Impressions: I love the H20, at least with the Sparkos opamps. It is resolving, musical, engaging, clean, natural sounding with an expansive sound stage. There is more texture to its sound, it images better and its bass hits harder - and all that while constrained by using the single ended input and output, despite being balanced. Sound wise it's a clear winner against the Burson Fun with stock opamps - as it should be, given the considerable price difference.


Usage as a preamp

I didn't test its preamp functionality very thoroughly, playing only two songs per configuration. I compared it to using the DX7s in its DAC/HP mode, in which it basically functions as a digital preamp (particularly useful with a remote). I also used the passive Schiit SYS ($50) and the Schiit Jotunheim ($400) as a preamp.

Impressions: Compared to these three options, the Burson Fun stood out with significantly better imaging, without exhibiting the somewhat harsh highs and boomy lows I experienced when using it as a headphone amplifier. The SYS and the Jotunheim have the advantage of having additional inputs, while the DX7s has the advantage of supporting a remote - a crucial feature in a living room setup.


Dirty power?

The improvements I heard when using the Fun as a preamp surprised me. Maybe the opamps were responsible for the objectionable sound I heard with headphones, and are not in use for the preamp part of the Fun? This would definitely make sense to me.
But there was also another possibility: The Fun was no longer plugged into the same power strip that was also powering a desktop computer and a monitor, two laptops, a USB charger and a desk lamp's power supply that I can hear singing up close. Instead, it was now in a different power strip that also contained three iFi AC iPurifier power conditioners.
So I added another power strip to the noisy one used prior, and moved the Fun to the outlet furthest away from the power cord. Then I experimented with adding the three AC iPurifiers into the power strip one by one - and this seemed to indeed reduce the harshness I heard with headphones. Adding one AC iPurifier made the biggest difference, but adding more seemed to improve the result further a little bit. It didn't fundamentally change the sound of the Fun, but it seems to have cleaned it up a bit.

As a result, all of the above comparisons as a headphone amplifier may not have shown the Fun at its best. On the other hand, most people looking for $299 headphone amplifiers will not use any power conditioners at all, and are likely using it close to other gear as well, or plug it directly into a computer's non-audiophile power supply.


Using the Sparkos SS3601 opamps

Due to Burson's encouragement to roll opamps, I was really curious about how much of an impact the opamps have. I am already using two Sparkos SS3602 (dual opamps) in the Gustard H20, but didn't feel like they changed the sound that much compared to the stock opamps, though I didn't wait very long before making the swap. Still, I really like the H20 with the SS3602s, so I happily bought two SS3601s (single opamps) for the Burson Fun.

Impressions: Well! This completely transformed the Burson Fun. With the Sparkos opamps it sounded very clean, spacious, extremely detailed and resolving - and oh so engaging. The last time I found a headphone amplifier this gripping was when I heard the Lyr 3 with new production tubes at the California Audio Show in 2018 - no matter the song, it made me move to the music. In comparison, the Jotunheim still sounded good, but less engaging, while at the same time being more resolving - so that seemed to be the trade off. But the Burson Fun changes changes the equation when powered by the Sparkos opamps. I find it to be as engaging as I remember the Lyr 3 to be while actually surpassing the Jotunheim's resolution. Before the heart surgery, I had no desire to switch back to it when comparing it with the most of the other headphone amps, and was looking forward to just being done with this review. With the SS3601s it was the complete opposite, I could not stop listening. I heard things in songs I never heard before. Regardless of what genre I threw at the amp, it simply excelled, delivering razor sharp transients, smooth, punchy bass with lots of texture and the best sound stage I have heard with my Ether Flows.
Sadly, my Gustard H20 was back at the office at this point and I had to send the Fun on to my review partner, so a direct comparison wasn't possible anymore. I really hope that I will still get to do this, and also hear it with the Schiit Yggdrasil instead of the Topping DX7s.

06. NE5534s installed.jpg 07. SS3601s installed.jpg

08. SS3601s vs. NE5534s.jpg


Conclusion

For now, it seems that the Burson Fun with the Sparkos SS3601s is the best sounding headphone amplifier that I have heard so far. And trust me, I find that hard to believe myself - because of its price, because of its size and because it is single ended. There is enough that I don't like about the Burson Fun that I kind of don't want it to be true, and with the stock opamps I find it rather forgettable. Nevertheless, this experience reminded me of what made me obsessed with audio - reaching a new peak in sound quality, making me wonder once more how good it could possibly get. For that, I am very grateful.
bunkbail
bunkbail
Hi, thanks for the review! I know that you didn't pit the Fun /w SS3601 against H20 side by side, but which one do you think sounds the best (from memory)?
Alcophone
Alcophone
Hey @bunkbail, I forgot you asked me this! I did get a chance to compare them side by side, and the H20/SS3602 is still a bit better - cleaner sounding with more authority - than the Fun/SS3601. Of course it's also much more expensive, and bigger.
The H20 with stock opamps is much more enjoyable than the Fun with stock opamps, though.
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