DAC for Samsung Galaxy S2???
Aug 27, 2017 at 9:36 AM Post #9 of 13
That sucks. My OCD hates just using my amp between the tablet and cans lol
I figured it out.
This ADC https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00N8UYGMW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 into my DAC toslink and voila audio nirvana via Android :L3000:

Your OCD hates the idea of using just an amp between the S2 and your headphones but you'd use an ADC just to use a DAC? How does adding extra steps like that help?


Have you heard the yamaha dac that comes with Samsung galaxy s2? Not good IMO

Uhhhh...how exactly does that help again? ADC is Analogue to Digital Converter. it takes an analogue signal. The way you'll use it, you're only thinking of what comes after it, ie, you get to use a proper DAC after it...but what happens before that ADC?

Oh yeah, that's right...it will take an analogue signal from the phone, which went through the S2's "not good" Yamaha Digital to Analogue Converter.

Digital file >player app on Android>"not good" Yamaha Digital to Analogue Converter>analogue output> (presumably good) Analogue to Digital Converter > (presumably good) Digital to Analogue Converter > amp > Headphones

Regardless of how bad that DAC is, you are not skipping it. That's like cookking a steak sous vide at 85C, then searing it for 2min per side expecting it to come out medium rare, when you already cooked it well done in the sous vide process. The only time this kind of GIGO doesn't matter is in car audio systems where you can't rip out the factory electronics, but that's also a lot more because GIGO matters a heck of a lot less than being able to use a DSP to correct the acoustics in cars that are not the Maclaren F1 (ie, you're not sitting smack in the middle with tweeters and midwoofers right next to each other). You don't have the same kind of acoustic issue in any other scenario.

Why not just get something like a Creative E5 or the upcoming Fiio Q5 Pro? These can take a BT signal. Use BT with your S2 that way you don't add unnecessary steps. If the DAC is that bad using it to feed an ADC to feed another DAC isn't going to fix it - you might as well bypass the DAC even with some compression through Apt X. At least you're not introducing noise from the "not good" integrated DAC-HPamp no real line out chip on the S2.
 
Aug 27, 2017 at 11:25 AM Post #10 of 13
Your OCD hates the idea of using just an amp between the S2 and your headphones but you'd use an ADC just to use a DAC? How does adding extra steps like that help?




Uhhhh...how exactly does that help again? ADC is Analogue to Digital Converter. it takes an analogue signal. The way you'll use it, you're only thinking of what comes after it, ie, you get to use a proper DAC after it...but what happens before that ADC?

Oh yeah, that's right...it will take an analogue signal from the phone, which went through the S2's "not good" Yamaha Digital to Analogue Converter.

Digital file >player app on Android>"not good" Yamaha Digital to Analogue Converter>analogue output> (presumably good) Analogue to Digital Converter > (presumably good) Digital to Analogue Converter > amp > Headphones

Regardless of how bad that DAC is, you are not skipping it. That's like cookking a steak sous vide at 85C, then searing it for 2min per side expecting it to come out medium rare, when you already cooked it well done in the sous vide process. The only time this kind of GIGO doesn't matter is in car audio systems where you can't rip out the factory electronics, but that's also a lot more because GIGO matters a heck of a lot less than being able to use a DSP to correct the acoustics in cars that are not the Maclaren F1 (ie, you're not sitting smack in the middle with tweeters and midwoofers right next to each other). You don't have the same kind of acoustic issue in any other scenario.

Why not just get something like a Creative E5 or the upcoming Fiio Q5 Pro? These can take a BT signal. Use BT with your S2 that way you don't add unnecessary steps. If the DAC is that bad using it to feed an ADC to feed another DAC isn't going to fix it - you might as well bypass the DAC even with some compression through Apt X. At least you're not introducing noise from the "not good" integrated DAC-HPamp no real line out chip on the S2.

The app says that it "bypasses the Android audio system completely," if that claim isnt true then yeah it would be pointless to use this setup.

I could've spent $150 on a dragonfly or $20 on the ADC to do the same thing so i picked the cheap route.

There is a clear audible difference and thats all that matters really
 
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Aug 27, 2017 at 1:59 PM Post #11 of 13
The app says that it "bypasses the Android audio system completely," if that claim isnt true then yeah it would be pointless to use this setup.

It bypasses Android. Android refers to the software. USB Audio Player Pro, or any player app, can bypass the audio hardware, ie the integrated DAC-HPamp chip, that happens to be in an Android by using USB digital to feed a USB input Digital to Analogue Converter.

Using an Analogue to Digital Converter with USB Audio Player Pro does not do that, because you still have to feed it an analogue signal, and software can not magically convert your digital audio to analogue to be able to feed an Analogue to Digital Converter that will feed another Digital to Analogue Converter that will ultimately feed your amp a signal that, while handled by the second Digital to Analogue Converter's hardware, was still initially converted by the initial Digital to Analogue Converter chip on the phone, that was taken by an Analogue to Digital Converter device back to digital along with any noise and distortion introduced by the S2's "not good" Digital to Analogue Converter chip, and so you are basically cleanly reproducing a potentially not clean signal.

At best, USB Audio Player Pro will bypass Android software, ie, anything coded into the OS to screw with the sound - EU Nanny State volume limitations, Beats or B&O or whatever introducing some kind of EQ effect to mess with perception, etc. Again, you are not bypassing the DAC on the phone by using an Analogue to Digital Converter to feed another Digital to Analogue Converter, because unless you were using a TT or a casette player, it means you have to start with a digital file, which has to run through a Digital to Analogue Converter first, which in this case is the "not good" Yamaha DAC in your S2, just so you can feed an Analogue to Digital Converter that will convert that signal, noise and distortion included, into a digital signal that will be fed into another Digital to Analogue Converter, which will then decode the signal, any noise and distortion included, as cleanly as it can, but it won't clean any noise and distortion that was picked up during the Digital to Analogue Conversion done by the "not good" Digital to Analogue Converter chip, that will only just get picked up the Analogue to Digital Converter device you are adding on.


I could've spent $150 on a dragonfly

That assumes the S2 even works with the Dragonfly, and no, I don't think it does. S2 doesn't support USB audio via USB OTG.


$20 on the ADC to do the same thing so i picked the cheap route.

1. A $150 Digital to Analogue Converter, or any price at all, is NOT going "to do the same thing" as a $20 Analogue to Digital Converter, or any price for that matter.

ADC - Analogue to Digital Converter/Conversion, ie, Analogue >>>> Digital, this is kind of like putting tuna in a can and running the cans through an oven

DAC - Digital to Analogue Converter/Conversion, ie Digital >>>> Analogue, this is already like popping open the tuna can to eat the tuna

Your plan - S2 DAC >> ADC >>DAC - is like putting tuna in a can (studio recording ADC), opening the can (running it through S2 DAC), making a tuna spread and adding spices to make it last outside of a sealed can (your ADC), and hten finally, finally, making a tuna sandwich (final DAC and amplifier) and eating it (headphone).


2. $150 that actually does something is a better way to spend $150 than $20 that does nothing, if not something detrimental, like a circuitous and unnecessary process that might actually add noise and distortion then add more noise.


There is a clear audible difference and thats all that matters really

Clear difference: You added more boxes.

"Unclear" difference: The sound might be even less clear.
 
Aug 27, 2017 at 2:47 PM Post #12 of 13
It bypasses Android. Android refers to the software. USB Audio Player Pro, or any player app, can bypass the audio hardware, ie the integrated DAC-HPamp chip, that happens to be in an Android by using USB digital to feed a USB input Digital to Analogue Converter.

Using an Analogue to Digital Converter with USB Audio Player Pro does not do that, because you still have to feed it an analogue signal, and software can not magically convert your digital audio to analogue to be able to feed an Analogue to Digital Converter that will feed another Digital to Analogue Converter that will ultimately feed your amp a signal that, while handled by the second Digital to Analogue Converter's hardware, was still initially converted by the initial Digital to Analogue Converter chip on the phone, that was taken by an Analogue to Digital Converter device back to digital along with any noise and distortion introduced by the S2's "not good" Digital to Analogue Converter chip, and so you are basically cleanly reproducing a potentially not clean signal.

At best, USB Audio Player Pro will bypass Android software, ie, anything coded into the OS to screw with the sound - EU Nanny State volume limitations, Beats or B&O or whatever introducing some kind of EQ effect to mess with perception, etc. Again, you are not bypassing the DAC on the phone by using an Analogue to Digital Converter to feed another Digital to Analogue Converter, because unless you were using a TT or a casette player, it means you have to start with a digital file, which has to run through a Digital to Analogue Converter first, which in this case is the "not good" Yamaha DAC in your S2, just so you can feed an Analogue to Digital Converter that will convert that signal, noise and distortion included, into a digital signal that will be fed into another Digital to Analogue Converter, which will then decode the signal, any noise and distortion included, as cleanly as it can, but it won't clean any noise and distortion that was picked up during the Digital to Analogue Conversion done by the "not good" Digital to Analogue Converter chip, that will only just get picked up the Analogue to Digital Converter device you are adding on.




That assumes the S2 even works with the Dragonfly, and no, I don't think it does. S2 doesn't support USB audio via USB OTG.




1. A $150 Digital to Analogue Converter, or any price at all, is NOT going "to do the same thing" as a $20 Analogue to Digital Converter, or any price for that matter.

ADC - Analogue to Digital Converter/Conversion, ie, Analogue >>>> Digital, this is kind of like putting tuna in a can and running the cans through an oven

DAC - Digital to Analogue Converter/Conversion, ie Digital >>>> Analogue, this is already like popping open the tuna can to eat the tuna

Your plan - S2 DAC >> ADC >>DAC - is like putting tuna in a can (studio recording ADC), opening the can (running it through S2 DAC), making a tuna spread and adding spices to make it last outside of a sealed can (your ADC), and hten finally, finally, making a tuna sandwich (final DAC and amplifier) and eating it (headphone).


2. $150 that actually does something is a better way to spend $150 than $20 that does nothing, if not something detrimental, like a circuitous and unnecessary process that might actually add noise and distortion then add more noise.




Clear difference: You added more boxes.

"Unclear" difference: The sound might be even less clear.


I hear ya but it sounds better now. Before i heard hissing and a low hum now i dont so im happy.

If i ever have the need for portable i will just buy a dap because android is a headache lol
 

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