[WhiteCrow]

So I have been shopping around...I'm to lazy to post the mid woofers and tweeters I'm thinking about getting now but will tomorrow. Where can I find some of those fiberglass panels for them to mount them?

 

[ProtegeManiac]

Quote:

So I have been shopping around...I'm to lazy to post the mid woofers and tweeters I'm thinking about getting now but will tomorrow. Where can I find some of those fiberglass panels for them to mount them?

 
You make them - that's why DIYMobileAudio was mentioned

Or you get a local shop to do it, like I did - maybe DIYAudio can direct you to a shop or DIY-er for hire near you. But basically here are the steps before you dive into either direction, but detailed instuctions and photos are on other threads, mainly on DIYMA:

1) Test-run the mounting first, particularly the tweeters, for staging and imaging. I used blutack for about a couple of weeks on the Vifas, several more on other tweeters, just trying out other configurations; the safest though was still the best. That is, mounting the tweeters a little higher than the instrument cluster hump, then both aimed at the rearview mirror mount or just a bit towards the back of the car from that.
 
2) Cut MDF rings to hold the tweeters (and the midbass if you're doing those too), plus some scrap MDF to serve as support posts that you can easily trim as you go.

3) Use a glue gun to mount the MDF rings and support posts at the desired angles - you can use strings or laser pointers to help with this - then remove the pillar (plus door panel if you're doing that too), making sure you don't knock off or otherwise move these mounts in the process.

4) Rub some gorilla blue on the mounts, then spread a large enough piece of cloth over it. When this dries, work on gluing it to the rest of the pillar, gluing in more areas as the desired shape requires (like around the MDF ring, the feet, etc. After this follow how fiberglass is built onto this fabric (especially saffety procedures), which in short will be laying down resin, kitty hair, drying, then repeating for several layers. Usually three would be strong enough if the supports you used are tough and the tweeter light enough.
 
5) Sand then spray paint to match the dash, interior or original color.
 
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For ready-made ABS plastic panels, you can also check out Crutchfield, they usually have some mounting panels for certain cars and there's usually a list of what drivers fit, otherwise you have to get the measurements. The diameter is easy to match to the mounting panel but the depth is usually the problem.

 

[WhiteCrow]

alrigt, thanks. I didn't see the DIYmobileauto heh but I will look at that.
And here's the set up I was thinking about.
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=267-4001
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=267-4200
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=265-263
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=290-400

I assume these speakers would work with this amp as well....if they work like headphones do and monitors do they should be driven just fine. Now for the cross fade, should I be using a crossover limiter or physical EQ device to get them to sound right?

 

[ProtegeManiac]

Quote:

alrigt, thanks. I didn't see the DIYmobileauto heh but I will look at that.
And here's the set up I was thinking about.
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=267-4001
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=267-4200
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=265-263
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=290-400

I assume these speakers would work with this amp as well....if they work like headphones do and monitors do they should be driven just fine. Now for the cross fade, should I be using a crossover limiter or physical EQ device to get them to sound right?

 
There's something lacking in that gear list - since you're getting raw drivers you don't get passive crossovers. I don't think the amp much less the receiver can cut at the frequencies the tweeter needs them to.
 
Also if you want what essentially is the equivalent of crossfade for car audio, I suggest the following receivers:

Pioneer DEH-80PRS, or the older 860MP(I have this one), P880Rs - These have an active digital crossover to split the frequencies in digital before they get decoded, then sent out to individual outputs for tweeter, midwoofer, and subwoofer. It also has six channel time alignment - this is the crossfade for car audio, kind of like Audyssey etc on HT receivers but it's manual - to fine tune whatever proper aiming of the drivers can't fix about sitting off-center, being that close to one side, and have a steering wheel and sorts of things inside the cabin with you. My system before the 860MP's opamps started getting all funky can image the vocals dead center on the dash, and with acceptable depth to it too (drums are audibly behind the vocals, but guitars aren't). Getting one this Christmas, or the dedicated Alpine PXA-H100 processor if my friend gives me his old Alpine DVD+Nav system (I can use my phone for Nav anyways). There's also the Alpine 9887 and the older 9853, but both are phased out as Alpine favored iPod/USB receivers and their external processors. Lots of others but they'd be insanely expensive, like the Clarion HX-Dx series.
 
 
 
Since this has active crossovers you can get a set of raw drivers. To that end, if you're fabricating mounts anyway, get home audio drivers like the Vifas in my car. The larger, non-rare earth magnets are still beefy enough to allow for drivers that can go a bit lower than the typical car audio tweeters at that price. Same goes for the midwoofers. You can go through the sales on Parts Express for these, no need for the really expensive stuff.