[Sorrodje]

Quote:

 
Oh, oh, you've backed me into a corner.

 
Oh sorry, it wasn't my goal

.  And you're the guy who can provide these pads now If I understand all the story?

 

[wje]

Quote:

 
Oh sorry, it wasn't my goal

.  And you're the guy who can provide these pads now If I understand all the story?

 
Yes, that is correct.  Half of the stock I received from J$ have been sold / shipped.  Just 1/2 box remains.  The real bad part is that just 4 days ago, the USPS increased rates.  For the U.S., it wasn't as bad.  For Canada and International destinations, it was a bit worse. Some price quotes on shipping were provided before the 27th and then people opted to buy after that time and my wallet has been stung a bit by covering some of the shipping damage.  But, again, it's all in the name of love for this hobby.
 
Cables? I'm with you Ninjames on getting shorter RCA interconnects. I whipped up a pair of 4-wire (each cable) braided, then Techflexed cables last evening that were about 7" long.  Two conductors for each polarity.  The braiding should aid in reducing any effects of line noise, etc. However, it was probably only $7.00 and about an hours time to build these cables.  The end result?  I no longer have an extra 2' of an interconnect cable tangled up on my desktop.
 
I'm not a guy who believes in costly cables.  However, I am a person of principle with cables.  Using good connectors (e.g. Neutrik) makes for a good starting position.  Then, the braiding process, or the choice one can make in doing what they want with the cables is where creativity can be a key.  The main point being, I can get a cable down to the specific length that I need, so I don't have to use velcro or zip ties to take care of all the extra slack.

 

[bcpk]

Did you say you were making a custom headband, wje? Any pictures of your progress?
 
I bought an HD 650 headband cushion to attach to my HE-400s but haven't figured out an elegant means of doing so yet. Its rectangular footprint is slightly too wide at the ends where the HE-400s pad narrows, so I may have to trim it. I was considering cutting slits in the leather covering to just slip the ends of the pad into place, but I'm afraid of doing too much damage to the original headband since it doesn't seem to be easy to remove and replace.
 

 
I don't actually find my HE-400s to be uncomfortable, but am still tempted to tinker!

 

[FuzzyD]

Stopped at Jo'Anne's yesterday and got the fabric to put inside my J$ pads. Seems very similar to the HiFiMan fabric.

 

[Fearless1]

Thanks Wayne!
 
The pads came today, they sound and look great on the DT880s. I can't believe how much of a better bass response,  and again, tamed treble response they add. I read Skylab's review( http://www.head-fi.org/t/424130/review-jmoney-audio-genuine-leather-earpads-for-beyer-dt770-880-990) on them a couple of years ago and dismissed it after trying the Denon J-moneys on them,  boy was I wrong in assuming they were the same pads.

 

[Marleybob217]

Quote:

This thread is increasingly convincing me to get the HE-500s instead. Alas, then I won't be able to afford a decent amp within my allotted budget. #firstworldproblems

Well I compared the two headphones, and I for one didn't hear that much difference. I auditioned them both for about an hour, with the stock pleathers.
The HE-500 did sound more balanced. However, with the jerg pads on the HE-400, I think they sound very nicely balanced.
The HE-400 well exceeded my expectations, to the point that my previously favorite headphone, sounds quite bad.
 
I don't think anyone really needs the he-500, the he-400 holds his own.

 

[merkil]

Well I compared the two headphones, and I for one didn't hear that much difference. I auditioned them both for about an hour, with the stock pleathers.
The HE-500 did sound more balanced. However, with the jerg pads on the HE-400, I think they sound very nicely balanced.
The HE-400 well exceeded my expectations, to the point that my previously favorite headphone, sounds quite bad.

I don't think anyone really needs the he-500, the he-400 holds his own.

If you own the 400s would skipping the he500s and going straight to the he6 be a good idea? I mean if you can properly amp the he6s of coarse.

 

[dshlapak]

For all the talk about pad switching here...is there somewhere for a noob to learn how to do it without costing millions of lives? I currently have custody of Justin's loaners, and would be interested in trying out the velours he kindly included, but I'm certainly not going to take any chance of damaging the 'phones.

Help?

 

[merkil]

For all the talk about pad switching here...is there somewhere for a noob to learn how to do it without costing millions of lives? I currently have custody of Justin's loaners, and would be interested in trying out the velours he kindly included, but I'm certainly not going to take any chance of damaging the 'phones.

Help?

Take something like a credit card and slip it in between the pad and driver. Move it around till you find a tab and then push it in a bit with the card. Once you pop one tab the rest are a cake walk.

 

[hifimanrookie]

Quote:

 
What?  Are you telling me that the $150 Audioquest USB cable is a sham?  
 
Seriously, when looking for a USB cable, all one really needs to really get is one that has RFI / EMI chokes on it.  Usually, the Monoprice cables have these.  If not, Radio Shack sells a 2-pack for about $1.59.  Place one over the cable near one end of the USB and another towards the other end.  This will prevent any noise from oscillating in the event the standard shield on the cable doesn't reject those horrifying signals floating around the air.

Even better..no cable at all.but a connector only..i read that thats best way to connect dac to pc..its only a bit inconveniënt..
check this out:
 
 
Improving USB Audio
posted 6 Mar 2012 04:36 by John Kenny   [ updated 17 Nov 2012 10:22 ]
After testing this & a number of independent people also doing this test, I can confirm that a USB adapter rather than a USB cable sounds best. It seems to match, if not better expensive USB cables although it hasn't been auditioned against very expensive ones yet.
 
So here's what you need - for my devices - a USB B male to USB A male adapter. 
In the USA you will find them here
In the UK you will find them here
 
You will also need a USB A male to A female adapter to do two things:
- give you extra clearance between PC/laptop & device for the plugging in of other cables
- orient the device the correct way up
 
You may prefer to get swivel type USB adpaters but these have not yet been tested:
Ones to consider:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/LINDY-…..y_ce_img_b 
http://www.amazon.co.uk/USB-Ad…..B004T0RDF2 
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Belkin…..pd_cp_ce_1 
 
this advice comes from the maker of the JKDAC32, one of the best dacs under 1000usd  and even more i understand.

 

[modulor]

Quote:

 
Here's a picture of my equipment.  It's actually a sewing Awl, but I call it a sewing stick.  I use Schmetz leather sewing needles and a dab of super glue to attach the needle to the stick and let it dry.  Then, all I do is perform lock stitches using a single piece of thread.  There is a good clip of using a sewing awl at the Speedy Stitcher Web site.  I did buy that sewing awl from REI for about $13.00, but it is designed for sewing heavier goods - gear bags, sails, outside umbrellas, etc.  I was reading through some leather forums and noticed how an individual created a sewing awl with a BIC pen, a leather needle and a spot of super glue.  The benefit of using the popsicle / craft sticks is that I can use a Sharpie and write the needle size on the wooden stick for reference as I have a few different sizes that I use.  Also,  Walmart has the upholstery thread by Coats and Clark.  It is very good - heavy duty thread that holds together and is a dream to work with.  
 
 
 

 
Thanks for the tips!  I see you are using a sewing machine needle, which would definitely be more handy (I have a leather-tipped needle, but it's a traditional hand needle with the eye at the blunt end).  Here are some pics of the first prototype:
 

 

 
A quick build breakdown:
I used a piece of aluminum wire about 10-12 gauge (estimate) and formed it around the inside of the headband between the edges and the inner foam padding.  I then cut and sewed a piece of felt onto the wire frame.  I cut a piece of foam out of a block and shaped it with a xacto knife.  The shape ended up being similar to the HD650 headband with a dip in the middle.  I then did some rough measurements on the leather pieces for the cushion and assembled them, then placed the foam pad inside.  I put two pieces of leather on the end of the cushion to hold the foam and frame in and attached the leather of the cushion to that.  I then prepared the straps by sewing two strips together each and added the corresponding buttons, and stitched them around the frame through the cushion leather/felt for added support.  I'm planning on doing a rev. 2 and using an actual HD650 pad inside (the one I made was hard to get perfectly even, but overall it is very comfy nevertheless).  I plan on providing build instructions for those who are interested in taking a crack at it, or improving on the design.
 
Quote:

Did you say you were making a custom headband, wje? Any pictures of your progress?
 
I bought an HD 650 headband cushion to attach to my HE-400s but haven't figured out an elegant means of doing so yet. Its rectangular footprint is slightly too wide at the ends where the HE-400s pad narrows, so I may have to trim it. I was considering cutting slits in the leather covering to just slip the ends of the pad into place, but I'm afraid of doing too much damage to the original headband since it doesn't seem to be easy to remove and replace.
 

 
I don't actually find my HE-400s to be uncomfortable, but am still tempted to tinker!

 
This is the one.  I have to order it still, but once it arrives I can start taking measurements and planning the next version.

 

[Okamoto]

Quote:

 
Oh, oh, you've backed me into a corner. I, personally, haven't carried out the Jerg pad modifications to the level of completion.  I'm speaking of the J$ Beyerdynamic pads.  I owned the J$ Denon pads, and they flat out just didn't work well with the HE-400 at all.  The thicker foam and the much smaller ear opening killed off all of the positive attributes of the HE-400s.  Again, that was for the Denon flavor of pads. However, the Denon "D" series is a complete beast in and of itself when it comes to sound and that is why those headphones do better with the thicker, angled pads.

Are you going to sell jerg pads?

 

[jerg]

Quote:

I was reading your guide again and you said the HE-500's drive is sensitive to dust. Does the same apply to the HE-400's?
 
I'm thinking about putting the dust protection back to the grills. Maybe part of the sibilance is being caused by that.

Yeah I had the ear-side of my HE500 drivers exposed for a while when I just got the J$s several weeks ago, and after a few days one of the sides developed an upper treble screech, which did not disappear until I used some compressed air on it. AFAIK HE500's diaphragm tracings are a lot more delicate and fragile compared to HE400's. You'd see what I mean if you look at the two side-by-side.
 
I mean, even from the photos, it should be apparent:
 
 
HE500 tracings

 
 
 
HE400 tracings

 
 
 
HE500's tracings are like really delicate aluminum foils applied directly onto the mylar, while HE400 is a very solid whole piece with the aluminum tracings included inside compressed onto the mylar.

 

[Okamoto]

Quote:

Yeah I had the ear-side of my HE500 drivers exposed for a while when I just got the J$s several weeks ago, and after a few days one of the sides developed an upper treble screech, which did not disappear until I used some compressed air on it. AFAIK HE500's diaphragm tracings are a lot more delicate and fragile compared to HE400's. You'd see what I mean if you look at the two side-by-side.
 
I mean, even from the photos, it should be apparent:
 
 
HE500 tracings

 
 
 
HE400 tracings

 
So there's no problem to use the grills without the dust screen, right?
 
I'm a wimp when it comes to dust, i'm very afraid of damaging the driver, but i don't want to open it just to glue the fabric back. Too much work.
 
By the way, i'm using the stock grills without the fabric, took it off as soon as the headphones arrived. I guess it doesn't make much of a difference.

 

[jiggahwhat]

Primarily because the testimonies here indicate the HE-400 suffers from the same problems that caused me to ultimately decide to sell my D2000s in the first place, namely (1) bright treble, and (2) recessed mids. I listen to electronic, and even for that the inability to hear mids is frustrating. It looks like the HE-500 or LCD-2 is the ideal upgrade path for me.