Yes, with long small diameter tube as a physical low pass filter. Matching is difficult, cut tube in pairs to reduce variation, expect multiple attempts to get a good match, buy extra tubing. You can change the curve shape at the cost of reduced db level. Expect to lose maybe 6db maximum, but start a vented driver that is very loud. Series resistors or L-pad will reduce distortion and bring db down to desired level. Closing the vents will reduce db and distortion, varies by driver.
Home-Made IEMs
- Thread starter Bilavideo
- Start date
Maybe they are not as damages as you said.
mckpaul
New Head-Fier
Spectroid/Dayton iMM-6 questions..
I've see posts and videos on connecting the iMM-6 microphone to a phone and various ways of attaching an IEM to the microphone with tubing etc.
I have Spectroid loaded on my Android phone and have played with it going through all the settings. The iMM-6 mic instructions say to download the calibration file for the mic and load it into the software program being used for audio analysis. If Spectroid is the analysis program, I don't see a way to load a calibration file for the iMM6.
Also, noobie question I guess, but do have to have still another app to generate a test noise to send to the IEMs for Spectroid to listen to and analyze?
I've searched this thread and youtube videos but not finding information on using Spectroid and the iMM-6 for testing IEMs in terms of settings and what noise source to use etc.
I've see posts and videos on connecting the iMM-6 microphone to a phone and various ways of attaching an IEM to the microphone with tubing etc.
I have Spectroid loaded on my Android phone and have played with it going through all the settings. The iMM-6 mic instructions say to download the calibration file for the mic and load it into the software program being used for audio analysis. If Spectroid is the analysis program, I don't see a way to load a calibration file for the iMM6.
Also, noobie question I guess, but do have to have still another app to generate a test noise to send to the IEMs for Spectroid to listen to and analyze?
I've searched this thread and youtube videos but not finding information on using Spectroid and the iMM-6 for testing IEMs in terms of settings and what noise source to use etc.
mckpaul
New Head-Fier
On a side not, here are a couple of pics of progress...shells and face plates still in lightly sanded state ready to drill sound tube holes and load drivers. I have one working pair, not real pretty and a good lesson on what not to do in the finish stage, but now finally getting close on a few other sets.
Attachments
mattmatt
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These look amazing. Are these 3D printed? What material is that blue faceplate? Looks amazing.
mckpaul
New Head-Fier
Thanks! I mentioned the first working pair, if you hold them about 5 feet away and squint they look great, but up close they are UGLY! lol
Not 3d printed, done the old way with impressions, investments and Dreve Fotoplast. The blue faceplates were made in clear silicone molds I created , I guess you'd call them investments for faceplates. I put a thin layer of black Fotoplast lightly cured, then poured a little blue Fotoplast, added some blue glitter from Hobby Lobby (sprinkled in some regular sized glitter and then added some larger glitter pieces with tweezers,) cured a little bit, then topped it off with clear Fotoplast. Once cured and washed etc, I sanded the front down smooth. I'm putting those on black shells, really anxious to see what they look like once fitted, final sanded and dipped in Laq 3.
The engraving for serial numbers and on faceplates is done with a laser engraver and then filled with white fingernail polish., or various colors of Testors model paint and sanded, takes 2 or 3 coats since the paint shrinks as it dries.
Not 3d printed, done the old way with impressions, investments and Dreve Fotoplast. The blue faceplates were made in clear silicone molds I created , I guess you'd call them investments for faceplates. I put a thin layer of black Fotoplast lightly cured, then poured a little blue Fotoplast, added some blue glitter from Hobby Lobby (sprinkled in some regular sized glitter and then added some larger glitter pieces with tweezers,) cured a little bit, then topped it off with clear Fotoplast. Once cured and washed etc, I sanded the front down smooth. I'm putting those on black shells, really anxious to see what they look like once fitted, final sanded and dipped in Laq 3.
The engraving for serial numbers and on faceplates is done with a laser engraver and then filled with white fingernail polish., or various colors of Testors model paint and sanded, takes 2 or 3 coats since the paint shrinks as it dries.
mckpaul
New Head-Fier
At this stage they aren't vary transparent since they've been sanded with 400, 600, 800 and 1200 sand paper, but when the Laq 3 clear finish is applied they become see through clear....at least the red and blue ones do. The black Fotoplast is translucent too,, but I don't expect the black to be very see through after it's coated.
mckpaul
New Head-Fier
Back to the Spectroid issue...I downloaded a noise generator app, I can play white noise through the iMM-6 and an IEM (attached in an air tight fashion to the microphone with a piece of hose) and Spectroid sees the sound, but I've tried every setting in the Spectroid app (With waterfall turned off) but can't get any kind of graph that looks anything like any that have been posted showing the response curve of the monitor.
What are the settings needed in Spectroid for a reasonable graph image that I can capture? Also, I notice comments preferring not to use white noise, so what audio source is best to use?
By the way, thanks ForceMajeure for the post warning about pulling the mic element out of the iMM-6. You're right, that little mic is not fitted all that tight. Mine started sliding out when I tried to remove the tube, and your comment on here saved me from damaging the mic.
What are the settings needed in Spectroid for a reasonable graph image that I can capture? Also, I notice comments preferring not to use white noise, so what audio source is best to use?
By the way, thanks ForceMajeure for the post warning about pulling the mic element out of the iMM-6. You're right, that little mic is not fitted all that tight. Mine started sliding out when I tried to remove the tube, and your comment on here saved me from damaging the mic.
BadgerMcBadger
Head-Fier
should i sand/coat my impressions before scanning them for 3d printing?
mattmatt
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Sadly I haven't used this software so I won't be able to help you.
I don't. I scan them raw and untrimmed. I think some companies like JH, Craft Ears and 64 Audio trim them before scanning.
soundlink has a similar product. They're agar.
swtnate
500+ Head-Fier
Clear krystalloid can be purchased stateside via dental suppliers or direct from the manufacturer
I saw some of them on internet. I just need super transparent non yellow lol .
Thank you
swtnate
500+ Head-Fier
Clear krystalloid is transparent. All you see in the smaller packaging is it cut into smaller pieces.
Do you have a crossover and damper recommendation for this set up , I'm new at this with individual components, I did build a preassembled 3ba 31732 with dampers but micro soldering is new to me I'm using smd's caps and resistors.
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