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Jun 16, 2020 at 6:38 PM Post #11,311 of 16,074
@dhruvmeena96 I've been lurking for quite a while, and I'd like to start off by saying thank you so much for everything you've contributed to this thread!

I have a quick question; I'm planning a 38D1XJ007 / TWFK build, I have all the parts and a Dayton iMM-6 on the way. But I'm having a hard time understanding the use of a zobel circuit, any advice would be appreciated.

In a setup with a low and high driver like this, is the zobel used on both drivers, just the high driver, or one for each?

If it's just for the TWFK, somewhere in this thread someone said to use a 15Ω resistor and a 17.3μF cap, are those numbers found by an algorithm based on known inductance, or do you decide by sound? I don't have the most discerning ears... yet :)
 
Jun 16, 2020 at 9:43 PM Post #11,312 of 16,074
LeaveMasonAlone said:
@dhruvmeena96 I've been lurking for quite a while, and I'd like to start off by saying thank you so much for everything you've contributed to this thread!

I have a quick question; I'm planning a 38D1XJ007 / TWFK build, I have all the parts and a Dayton iMM-6 on the way. But I'm having a hard time understanding the use of a zobel circuit, any advice would be appreciated.

In a setup with a low and high driver like this, is the zobel used on both drivers, just the high driver, or one for each?

If it's just for the TWFK, somewhere in this thread someone said to use a 15Ω resistor and a 17.3μF cap, are those numbers found by an algorithm based on known inductance, or do you decide by sound? I don't have the most discerning ears... yet :)
Click to expand...
You dont even need zobel to get flat impedance with 38..

Just use L-pad on woofer

And use TWFK in full range with WBFK part crossed at 470nF

It will be a nice tuning plus relatively very flat impedance
 
Jun 17, 2020 at 7:49 AM Post #11,313 of 16,074
General questions: Is it possible to remove tubes from BA bores after gluing them ?
If so, how hard is it?
Is there risk damaging the BA doing it ?
Is there better alternatives other than resin for gluing the tubes for testing purpose?

I'm thinking on building on an universal shell first, then using the same drivers to upgrade to a custom fit shell. Finally got the time to build them and don't want to wait till audiologist open back to public in my city to get my ear Impressions (thanks COVID-19).
I also will like to try dual-bore vs tri-bore on the same build, but I will have to order and wait (on the tri-bore setup) around 4-6 weeks shipping time for the extra dampers to arrive.
 
Last edited:
Jun 17, 2020 at 7:52 AM Post #11,314 of 16,074
Hey all, im starting down the winding path of DIEM's since im stuck at home, unemployed :) yay.....
My order arrived today from MCear with this tubing. Does anybody have any experience with it? Any benefits to using a 2into1 tube like this? or is it better to use two separate tubes?
Knowles GV btw.

Thanks :)

d94s58jxjg551.jpg
 
Jun 17, 2020 at 9:19 AM Post #11,315 of 16,074
MASM7 questions:

How much will the sound be affected in the follow cases? :
- If in the Bellsing6 side I use 1mm ID on each bore, to 3mm ID as adapter for the 3 tubes, small space, then 2mm ID. (attached image for illustrative support only, I can do it cleaner)
spout tubing alternative.jpg

- Same but using directly the three 1mm ID tubes into 2mm ID streached. (attached image for illustrative support only, I can do it cleaner)
spout tubing alternative2.jpg

- Covering the hole BS6 drivers (not only the bores) with 3mm ID, its not easy but doable.

- Use the 3D print cap, then tubes

- 3D print the hole tube system (either stand alone or the hole shell)
 
Jun 17, 2020 at 9:08 PM Post #11,316 of 16,074
itsnotLupus said:
General questions: Is it possible to remove tubes from BA bores after gluing them ?
If so, how hard is it?
Is there risk damaging the BA doing it ?
Is there better alternatives other than resin for gluing the tubes for testing purpose?

I'm thinking on building on an universal shell first, then using the same drivers to upgrade to a custom fit shell. Finally got the time to build them and don't want to wait till audiologist open back to public in my city to get my ear Impressions (thanks COVID-19).
I also will like to try dual-bore vs tri-bore on the same build, but I will have to order and wait (on the tri-bore setup) around 4-6 weeks shipping time for the extra dampers to arrive.
Click to expand...
Yes its possible. But it depends on what glue you using

itsnotLupus said:
MASM7 questions:

How much will the sound be affected in the follow cases? :
- If in the Bellsing6 side I use 1mm ID on each bore, to 3mm ID as adapter for the 3 tubes, small space, then 2mm ID. (attached image for illustrative support only, I can do it cleaner)
spout tubing alternative.jpg

- Same but using directly the three 1mm ID tubes into 2mm ID streached. (attached image for illustrative support only, I can do it cleaner)
spout tubing alternative2.jpg

- Covering the hole BS6 drivers (not only the bores) with 3mm ID, its not easy but doable.

- Use the 3D print cap, then tubes

- 3D print the hole tube system (either stand alone or the hole shell)
Click to expand...
Why are you even using tube based system when a 3D file is there?

It would be hard to control every parameter on tube and would be harder to make.

And if you are completely into MASM 7.

The connection point will shift the upper midrange peak a little bit.(I mean very little that it will be negligible)
 
Jun 18, 2020 at 3:44 AM Post #11,317 of 16,074
dhruvmeena96 said:
Yes its possible. But it depends on what glue you using
Click to expand...
Which one is recomended ?
I have TP-2500F UV LOCA, epoxy for audio gear, quick cure time epoxy, krafts silicone. but I can go and buy something else.

dhruvmeena96 said:
Why are you even using tube based system when a 3D file is there?
Click to expand...
When I bought all the pieces to build MASM7, the 3D files were not available yet (or where in the making, can't recall correctly), so I went for the tube based sytem on my shopping list.
Is what I have in my hands, and if I can build them today, and in a few weeksi can upgrade to a 3D printed version will be ideal. That way I can build now with the 2 bores green and white dampers (the only one I have), buy extra dampers, wait for them to arrive and after that try the 3D version with 3 bores and dampers to play with.

Ideal scenario for me will be to have a 3D printed custom fit shell. But I know that will take some time.
 
Jun 18, 2020 at 4:45 AM Post #11,318 of 16,074
itsnotLupus said:
Which one is recomended ?
I have TP-2500F UV LOCA, epoxy for audio gear, quick cure time epoxy, krafts silicone. but I can go and buy something else.


When I bought all the pieces to build MASM7, the 3D files were not available yet (or where in the making, can't recall correctly), so I went for the tube based sytem on my shopping list.
Is what I have in my hands, and if I can build them today, and in a few weeksi can upgrade to a 3D printed version will be ideal. That way I can build now with the 2 bores green and white dampers (the only one I have), buy extra dampers, wait for them to arrive and after that try the 3D version with 3 bores and dampers to play with.

Ideal scenario for me will be to have a 3D printed custom fit shell. But I know that will take some time.
Click to expand...
@stephensynanta16 can you upload the MASM7 3D file(the MASM7 classic 3 tube one with both TWFK in one combined tube)..

For glue I have to check it up otherwise
ask Stephen regarding what glue he uses because I have kinda retired for now from iem diy.

I mean I do diy stuff but I am not getting weird ideas lol.
And COVID-19 and indo- china tension and job is having toll over my life
 
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