[raptor18]

  That's what I thought. Coupler is relatively cheap, it's just a piece of metal. but you have to add microphone, pre-amp and power module which all are incredibly expensive, cable alone cost €700 because it's lemo with some shieliding and stuff
 
[Edit] Oh BTW. I just broke my 2k post ;D

 
Congrats!
 
$1200 only for the couple (piece of metal)? Bloody hell that's expensive. OK if it was with mic that comes calibrated.

 

[audioxxx]

That's what I thought. Coupler is relatively cheap, it's just a piece of metal. but you have to add microphone, pre-amp and power module which all are incredibly expensive, cable alone cost €700 because it's lemo with some shieliding and stuff

[Edit] Oh BTW. I just broke my 2k post ;D

There is this: http://diy.vibrolabs.com/products/veritas

Which is very basic for taking guideline samples, but also handy, and doesn't cost the earth.

2k of posts well done:

 

[MuZo2]

Applause for 2k quality post !!!!!!! and successful journey as audiophile and entrepreneur.

 

[piotrus-g]

Thank you guys.

 

[ForceMajeure]

I am thinking of not dipping my ear impressions in wax.
I tried it with very hot paraffin wax and it still came out too big though I have trimmed my impressions even more for it to fit...
The trimming process to make the wax coat spot on also makes the ear impressions more prone to fitment issues...
Do you think a professional wax likes EGGER will be thinner?
 
Also another question about trimming the impressions.
How do you make sure the impressions will have the same shape for the faceplates when trimming them?
I tried to have the same shape but it still slightly different.
I also tried another method, I used bluetak to rise the impressions a bit before the colloid process and shaped them to have similar faceplates form...
 
So far I have butchered 3 pairs of impressions and I am still not 1000% satisfied with the results...
 
Also the ears canal length seems to be an issue to get it right how much need to be trimmed?
I tried various lengths, some seems to be too long and kinda irritating/discomforting before the second bend especially when lying on the side.
I think the major part of the CIEM end results beside sound depends on the trimming/handling of the impressions.
A step which is not discussed enough here I think.

 

[MuZo2]

  I am thinking of not dipping my ear impressions in wax.
I tried it with very hot paraffin wax and it still came out too big though I have trimmed my impressions even more for it to fit...
The trimming process to make the wax coat spot on also makes the ear impressions more prone to fitment issues...
Do you think a professional wax likes EGGER will be thinner?
 
Also another question about trimming the impressions.
How do you make sure the impressions will have the same shape for the faceplates when trimming them?
I tried to have the same shape but it still slightly different.
I also tried another method, I used bluetak to rise the impressions a bit before the colloid process and shaped them to have similar faceplates form...
 
So far I have butchered 3 pairs of impressions and I am still not 1000% satisfied with the results...
 
Also the ears canal length seems to be an issue to get it right how much need to be trimmed?
I tried various lengths, some seems to be too long and kinda irritating/discomforting before the second bend especially when lying on the side.
I think the major part of the CIEM end results beside sound depends on the trimming/handling of the impressions.
A step which is not discussed enough here I think.

Yes I got wax from same supplier of egger and its thin and applies even.

 

[raptor18]

I really think you should use paraffin wax to cover any imperfections and smoothen the surface of the ear impressions. I used ordinary paraffin wax on my test shells and they turned out quiet good with good fit in the ear. 
Make sure the wax is around 78 degrees celsius when you dip them, this is written in the dreve fotoplast manual so you need a termometer. It is also an art how to dip the wax, it took me many tests to get them good. Watch the 1964 lab tour video, there is an instance when they dip the ear impressions in wax. The cooler the wax is, the thicker the wax will become on the surface, maybe you should raise the wax temperature?
 
Something you should also try, dip test ear impressions which you are not affraid of destroying, and keep it in the wax for 10 seconds. Lift and you will se the wax layer very thin. This is probably because the wax heated the ear impressions and the wax has enough time to flow down before hardening. So keeping the ear impressions at around 23 degrees celsius or something is also critical when dipping the ear impressions in the wax 

 

[ForceMajeure]

  I really think you should use paraffin wax to cover any imperfections and smoothen the surface of the ear impressions. I used ordinary paraffin wax on my test shells and they turned out quiet good with good fit in the ear. 
Make sure the wax is around 78 degrees celsius when you dip them, this is written in the dreve fotoplast manual so you need a termometer. It is also an art how to dip the wax, it took me many tests to get them good. Watch the 1964 lab tour video, there is an instance when they dip the ear impressions in wax. The cooler the wax is, the thicker the wax will become on the surface, maybe you should raise the wax temperature?
 
Something you should also try, dip test ear impressions which you are not affraid of destroying, and keep it in the wax for 10 seconds. Lift and you will se the wax layer very thin. This is probably because the wax heated the ear impressions and the wax has enough time to flow down before hardening. So keeping the ear impressions at around 23 degrees celsius or something is also critical when dipping the ear impressions in the wax 

Yeah, I measured the temperature and it was over 85 C. I have also watch the 1964' vid again and tried to imitate the movement but the end result is still a too thick layer IMO. Between 0.3mm to 0.5mm. I don't know how much thinner a professional wax could be. I tried to trim another set of impressions to match this amount but it leads to some inconsistencies in the overall shape of the ear canals and concha and leads to a less comfortable fit. If the professional wax thickness once settled is 0.1mm-0.15mm  then I might buy some.

 

[ForceMajeure]

  Does anyone know how to turn an earbud into in ear phone? I realized my Sennheiser MX760s sound superior to my IEMs but with zero bass and isolation. If I can find a way to attach a triple flange to it, it will be satisfying as hell. The final product should look like Panasonic's cheaper IEMs. Sort of classic big-driver earbuds with canal extensions...

You can find shells with a fitting diameter on lunashops.com or aliexpress.
I don't know the diameter of the mx760 but if it is 15mm these would fit http://www.lunashops.com/goods.php?id=5284

 

[raptor18]

Has anyone seen this?
 
http://www.knowles.com/eng/premiumsound/Resource-center/Measuring-Balanced-Armature-Drivers-for-Hi-Res-Audio-Earphones
 
A new way to measure BA's? No need for IEC711 coupler?

 

[Silverprout]

  Has anyone seen this?
 
http://www.knowles.com/eng/premiumsound/Resource-center/Measuring-Balanced-Armature-Drivers-for-Hi-Res-Audio-Earphones
 
A new way to measure BA's? No need for IEC711 coupler?

Knolwes DIY coupler

 
You absolutely need an IEC 711 coupler to be respected and esteemed by the audiophile community !

 

[piotrus-g]

  Has anyone seen this?
 
http://www.knowles.com/eng/premiumsound/Resource-center/Measuring-Balanced-Armature-Drivers-for-Hi-Res-Audio-Earphones
 
A new way to measure BA's? No need for IEC711 coupler?

Well first of all good luck hearing anything above 20kHz ;D Secondly, consider that the signal at 40kH is around 70dB If you are familiar with human hearing curve you know there's no chance in hearing anything at that level. The SPL above 20kHz would have to be at at least 110dB to make any difference.

 

[jbr1971]

There is this: http://diy.vibrolabs.com/products/veritas

Which is very basic for taking guideline samples, but also handy, and doesn't cost the earth.
 

 
I bought a Veritas and find it is good for basic ballpark measurements as well.
 
I find I have to take multiple measurements for every setup and throw away the outlier(s) because I get some that are wildly different from the others in the set.
 
Overall it is decent for what I paid for it (got it on sale). I cannot justify anything more expensive for my use.

 

[audioxxx]

I bought a Veritas and find it is good for basic ballpark measurements as well.

I find I have to take multiple measurements for every setup and throw away the outlier(s) because I get some that are wildly different from the others in the set.

Overall it is decent for what I paid for it (got it on sale). I cannot justify anything more expensive for my use.

I agree the Veritas is good for the price on sale,(I bought mine on sale as well) and it is hard to justify spending big money on callibrated test equipment, especially for a hobby like this.
I think you may get better results if you stick the veritas on something very heavy and solid.

 

[raptor18]

Ladies and gentlemen
 
What if i took a really deep ear impression and made a cast and modified it so an appropriate mic would fit. Wouldn't that just create the best coupler for my ear(s). I do know it wouldn't follow the iso IEC711 standard and no measurements could really be compared to those made in an IEC711, but who cares when all those IEC711 measurements are wrong for my own ears thus own coupler