[bluemonkeyflyer]

Thanks for the informative post. Your graphs support your hypothesis.  I'll have to try various types of microfiber with rock wool and then with cotton.
 
You're correct about rockwool, at least Grodan, having consistent density. I used a bread knife with a very sharp blade and a thickness guide attachment. I set it at 1 cm and that's exactly what I got. I did not remove the rubber shock absorbers. I notched the rockwool for all 4 posts and pressed it in place. I filled any gaps with scrap rockwool. Seems to work great and I retained the benefits of the rubber caps: decoupling the cup from the baffle to reduce vibration.
Quote:

I'm using actual 003 pads. 
 
I had to think about which mod I preferred. Of the two mods I consider distinctive, I think I'd suggest the thin microfiber/rock wool mod over the plush microfiber/cotton mod. Two my ears, they both sounded very good and measured well. But there are some practical considerations that cause me to favour the rock wool-based mod. 
 
My results with the rock-wool mod have been reproduced by BMF but he couldn't get the microfiber/cotton mod to work to his liking. 
 
Plus, with the microfiber/cotton mod, it requires that you use specific materials with little room for variation. And, as we all know, there's a lot of variation in cotton filling. Everything from teased cotton balls to absorbent cotton and cotton from nursing pads. And I got lucky with the plush microfiber I used. I found it at a discount store and haven't seen anything identical since. 
 
On the other hand, Grodan rock wool is readily available in small amounts and the company says the density is uniform at 70 kg/cubic meter. Rock wool does a good job of mopping up the backwave and resonance in the cup. And the lens cleaning cloths I use are everywhere and they're cheap. Although they have a large variation in porosity, I view this as being a good thing with this mod. You can swap out different samples of microfiber and tune the upper end of the spectrum to your liking. And you're not limited to microfiber (see chart below). My hypothesis is that the more porous the driver covering, the warmer the sound. The less porous/more reflective the material, the greater the emphasis on the mids and treble. (You can judge the porosity/permeability just by blowing threw the material and assessing the resistance.)
 
Here's what I mean. The chart below plots the frequency response of the rock wool mod using four different driver-cover materials. Note how the response curves begin to diverge at around 1 kHz. The plush microfiber gives the greatest treble boost, then, in descending order, lens-cleaning microfiber, cotton from a nursing pad and a naked driver (covered only with the stock white material). This rank order is pretty consistent with how I'd compare the materials using the aforementioned and patented MoBlow® test.
 

 
I think the semi-rigid nature of rock wool could also mean that mods will be more durable and less likely to shift. But that's conjecture.

 

[RexAeterna]

i see you guys cooled down on the play-doh stuff and been using stuff that actually works. also mineral wool(rock wool is same thing) sometimes can be a pain cause it keeps it's shape and you're working with a tiny enclosure. if you're not afraid to touch it(really don't need to worry anyways) is fiberglass. atleast fiberglass you can buy small batts of. highest density is r-30 i believe at local stores. fiberglass is very flexible and can be shaped and compressed very easily. probably work out better for small enclosures like the fostex(that's what i used as one of my main materials when i had mine. good ol' speaker box knowledge). r-30 should be way more then enough in density. r-19 work just as well too if that's all they have but, i think you guys already know already since i think i said it around here more then a few times(i think).

 

[LFG530]

Hey I just bought beyer gel pads for my T50rp and I seem to be unable to mount them on... Any tip on how to succeed in this epic task? Or any link to a more appropriate thread for my quest?  

 

[sluker]

Thanks Everyone, I think I fixed it.
I tried the windshield repair kit but was not able to rebuild the connection. So I cut under the laminate into the lead on the board/pad and used a thin piece of copper insulation tape (not sure the source) which i then super glued to the circuit pad. The copper tape accepted the solder with no issue. Everything works now, but we shall see how it holds long term.
However in my panic last night I ordered another set of  T50's from B&H, oh well I can use them to alternate mods and fine tune the sound.
 
Quote:

 
I find it is usually better to remove the old solder...  If the alloys are too different, or the solder is just too "used" it may not work out too happily, plus you may end up with so much solder the thermal capacitance rises and increases the chance of a melted pad even if you are in/out fast...

 

[micmacmo]

Okay, now that's serious DIY spirit and chops! Pretty soon you'll be mod'ing like a Russian. Glad to hear it's working again. And enjoy the new set too!
Quote:

Thanks Everyone, I think I fixed it.
I tried the windshield repair kit but was not able to rebuild the connection. So I cut under the laminate into the lead on the board/pad and used a thin piece of copper insulation tape (not sure the source) which i then super glued to the circuit pad. The copper tape accepted the solder with no issue. Everything works now, but we shall see how it holds long term.
However in my panic last night I ordered another set of  T50's from B&H, oh well I can use them to alternate mods and fine tune the sound.
 

 

[hans030390]

Quote:

I'm using actual 003 pads. 
 
Snip

 
I have a spare set of old stock T50RPs with naked drivers (rear side). The text on your image is a bit hard to read. I believe your measurements have the stock driver paper in place, right? And if I can read correctly, it looks like you measured a naked driver. Just wondering if you have any suggestions that might work well with 003 pads and a T50RP that no longer has the stock material behind the driver.

 

[nick n]

I'm waiting for the day someone uses rockwool or fibreglass on a can that has the rear stock damping removed, then asks why the driver sounds bad or stopped working 6 months later.
 
 
micmacmo:
you mentioned in those graphs about using the regular damping material only I assume that's with the rockwool still.

 

[Nevod]

Quote:

Hey I just bought beyer gel pads for my T50rp and I seem to be unable to mount them on... Any tip on how to succeed in this epic task? Or any link to a more appropriate thread for my quest?  

I have used plain duct tape. It is possible to put them on if you have nothing on the baffles, but they will eventually slip away in a couple days, so don't even bother.

 

[micmacmo]

Quote:

 
I have a spare set of old stock T50RPs with naked drivers (rear side). The text on your image is a bit hard to read. I believe your measurements have the stock driver paper in place, right? And if I can read correctly, it looks like you measured a naked driver. Just wondering if you have any suggestions that might work well with 003 pads and a T50RP that no longer has the stock material behind the driver.

 
When I referred to "naked drivers" that was a misnomer. They are indeed stock drivers with the while paper in place, but no other flat materials laid directly on top. 
 
What materials have you tried so far? I've seen people recommend coffee filter paper and used dryer sheets. You might also consider using fusible interfacing (used in sewing) and various samples of lens cleaning microfiber. (I'm not harping on microfiber as anything magic, but it does come in a range of porosity.) If the material doesn't boost the top end enough, blow through it, then look for a material that is even harder to blow through. Or try a double layer of the material. 
 
I can't say anything academically definitive here because I tend to blunder along, tweaking until something works. 
 
Quote:

I'm waiting for the day someone uses rockwool or fibreglass on a can that has the rear stock damping removed, then asks why the driver sounds bad or stopped working 6 months later.
 
 
micmacmo:
you mentioned in those graphs about using the regular damping material only I assume that's with the rockwool still.

 
Heck, it's not just the rock wool in six months. I know that, with every mod, my clumsy hands could pop open the cups and bust something right now.  
 
Yes, the rock wool was intact in all of the mods (as were the B-Quiet, Paxmate, AcoustiPack, felt, etc.). The only variable in the last graph comparing driver-covering supplements was the cover material itself. 

 

[kalbee]

Quote:

I'm waiting for the day someone uses rockwool or fibreglass on a can that has the rear stock damping removed, then asks why the driver sounds bad or stopped working 6 months later.
 
 
micmacmo:
you mentioned in those graphs about using the regular damping material only I assume that's with the rockwool still.

Also hope they left the vent filters intact or sealed it. It ain't as bad as asbestos but those things aren't meant to be flung around the head all the time.
That was just a overcautious remark btw, no need to panic!
 
But for good sound sometimes we know no reason

 

[sluker]

Has anyone here tried the HiFiman pleather pads? These are only $20.

 

[nick n]

Sort of wondering about all the abrasive dust and fibreglass particles that may work themselves into the diaphragm and start shredding it up slowly over time.
 
micmacmo, I was wondering if your graphs there showed a version of the mod that had only the stock damping paper + rockwool combination, or on the graphs did you mean it was showing results for just the stock damping and NO rockwool?

 

[LFG530]

Quote:

I have used plain duct tape. It is possible to put them on if you have nothing on the baffles, but they will eventually slip away in a couple days, so don't even bother.

 
That sucks, any way other way? Is it possible to modify the headphone to fit the pads? 
 
I read these pads were good with the t50rp and I doubt everyone just ducktaped (yes it's a verb) those... 

 

[rhythmdevils]

Anyone have any leads on where to get 003 pads?  (not the new HM5 mk2 pads)  Something was mentioned here recently, but head-fi search is so useless.  Feel free to pm if it's super secret

 

[Nevod]

Quote:

 
That sucks, any way other way? Is it possible to modify the headphone to fit the pads? 
 
I read these pads were good with the t50rp and I doubt everyone just ducktaped (yes it's a verb) those... 

Don't really know, I don't care, as long as it works it's alright for me.
You probably can try to make an adapter on the baffle that'd have small enough outer diameter so the pads would fit.
Perhaps you can try to glue an larger lip onto the pads, though as they're plastic, not many glues would be sticky to it.