[wppk]

 

[wppk]

I also wanted to whow how to make the hole in the driver. but as it is something which is risky, some very fragile parts can be touched and definitely damage the drivers, with no chance to repair them. I cannot be responsible for any damage.
first it is necessary to remove the driver housing from the body of the headphones. very easy, with a flat screw driver for instance, and no dammage here if you do it with care.

you have tou remove the mesh before anything else. patiently, do it with your nail , just a at little place, as soon as you can separate the mesh for a tiny part, you can remove it entirely from that part.
then, we get to the hardest point of the whole story.
We have to remove the driver from this housing. Don't even think about making the hole without removing the driver. you could make a hole further, and that would be the end.
there is glue around the driver, but it is not very strong. easy to cut with a flat screw driver. Take a big one for that, and you will use it after to put it bewteen the housing and the driver. You will need to act veryt strongly and precautionously, but any way, the plastic of the housing will have to be torned, and you will very probably brak the housing. Don't panic if you do, I will explain how to mend it after.

take great care not to put the screw driver next to the plug. behind it its the most f ragile point of the driver, I will show it after.

Now you have removed the drivers.

These have glue on the outside ring, because the previous owner had placed some kinds of weird pads and glued them with a very strong glue

 

[wppk]

this is the very very fragile point of the driver. The nearly microscopic wires that go to the center of the driver. If you cut them, wo chance to solder them back, they will not accept it and the will kind of melt.

never mind my black fingers, I had a biiig problem wiith my printer.
Now we have to remove the black cover. and that is not an easy point too.
take a very smaller flat screw driver and introduce it between the black cover and the body of the driver. Then, you will have a little space, and with you nail, you will be able to remove it. Irt is glued, but not too strongly. don't hesitate, you'll have to make an effort.

Now you are done with that point... You can remove most of the dust if you find some, but don't be too strong on it.
now take a driller and a 7 mm bit. ( sorry, it is in french measurment...)

hold the black cover , front down, and drill in the center, slowly, and carefully
now you have one hole on one driver
do the same on the other

 

[wppk]

now you have to reglue the mesh. with a stick of glue that your kids use at school

remove the remnant glue after that with a tooth stick

put the mesh back

you d'ont need glue to put the covers back, they clip.

Now, the drivers are ready at this point to be used in the b7 body. but if you want to put them back in the nakamichi body, you need to repair the housings.

first, untorn the parts that may need to be.

then, remove tho old glue

Now you have to find this combo. normal cyanolit glue, and a special powder that surely exists in you location. if you use glue, it will not work with hard plastic. but jus put a drop of glue pn the broken part, assemble, and let some powder get on it. the powder gests solid, and it hold the thing.

remove the powder

do it on both sides

 

[wppk]

now you just have to clip back the drivers inside, very easy, as the housing in the nak, very easy too.
and you're done !

 

[devouringone3]

#gold #mine
incredible footage thank you

I bought many of these hot cakes, for transplant, Grado mod style.
Stock the SP-7 is almost unwearable for me, and doesn't seal;
maybe my head is too small, for drivers fire at 45 degrees.
An option would be sawing the metal arc in two and overlapping
to reduce inflated headphone length and change firing angle.

SP-7 cups do have a gyroscope,
but it doesn't go all the way.
Grado pads fit perfectly.

For bass, ear-coupling is key.
That's why I scotch tape my HD414 pads,
which is probably more inert sound than pleather
though the bass-shifting effect must be roughly the same.

Derived from the Grado basshead mod.
Breathy, as thin as comfort allows, hence the HD414's.
Indeed foam is "scratchy" uncomfortable to some, they could try that:
https://www.amazon.ca/Headphone-Deodorizing-Absorption-Headphones-HC-M9B/dp/B072J8DDQP

 

[wppk]

thanks, can you show another picture of your foams, from the front ?
another things : I tested the b7 drivers in a bisset dd 45 body. the sound is hasrh on highs and lacks a lot of subtelty. compared to the naks.

 

[wppk]

so, let's play a little guessing game. what is this ?(images will appear soon I think)

 

[devouringone3]

The coin cut-outs, I wouldn't re-do..

 

[wppk]

what is surrounding the foam ? isn't it a bit hard ? a bit hurting for the ears/head ?
for my previous picture, it is a stax srx mkII body, in which I put the nak drivers. I then was surprised to hear how the foam changes everything. one must really use the one i told about in this post, it gives the best quality in sound. even if it is scratchy. so i decided to try to put leather on it to make it smoother . very bad idea. the sound turned very lower quality. So,I cut a leather ring, about three mm wide, which I glued on the top of the foam, the part that touches the skin, and it worked. not scratchy anymore, no change in the sound. be sure to take the pads I took, because other pads I could find are only in one part of foam, and i suppose it can be important for the sound, the pads i have are made of two levels of foam, different material, one more conentrated than the other, and it seems it is like that in original grado pads.
I ordered a 60i grado, will put the drivers of the nak insaide and see what it sounds like then.
BTW, inside the stax body, with the grado like pads, the sounds is very good, but it still is better in the b7 body.

 

[devouringone3]

It's plain 3M Scotch Tape.
Same here, foam above all, for transparency and air.
I tried masking, duct, electrical tapes.. stiffer = better, mimicking diaphragm compliance.

SR-60i driver extraction is often about destroying the inner sleeves, as it is a two-parts construction, drivers being molded in ABS plastic.
In other words to recycle Grado cups, unless you can salvage Grado's or Nakamichi's, you will need a driver "adapter / sleeve / chamber":

... metal is not magical to the sound, only inert, and although not worth the additional weight IMO, some aluminum parts makers are still in operation.
In truth most Grado modders use, make or trade lower-weight higher-comfort full wooden cups that don't sound too dissimilar.

Closed cups = more flavor, but DH-40 is well behaved.

 

[wppk]

Ok i see
thanks a lot for that.
if I unbderstand well, does it mean that the driver cannot be taken away from the grey body on your picture ? What are the metal holes that can be seen. screws ?

 

[devouringone3]

Driver can't be separated from ABS plastic support without its destroying (at least I don't think so).
Magnum chambers are a discontinued product sorry; but yes hex-screws were for easy swapping.

 

[wppk]

ok thanks !

 

[devouringone3]

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