[Nauglanch]

Case modded Vali? Succinct answer - not worth the effort. To fix a non problem. I just figured I'd cool her down in case I later wanted to stack something on top. And I have a milling machine.
 
Having some convenient Type K probes in my hand from some Patsburg & Mustang chip temp measurements - and a warm Vali - I opened her up and pasted down a thermocouple with some Kapton tape. 110.7F, open air stabilized,  with Blues Traveler, into DT-770 Pro 250 ohm.
 
I added another set of vent holes, following the same pattern, with a #4 centering drill on my milling machine.
 
I measured again, once with kapton blocking the new holes (forgot the un-milled before shot) and once after. Only 1F to 1.5F degree or so difference after letting the temps stabilize. 110.7 tube open air; 109 closed one set of holes; 108 two sets of holes.
 
I think some low/side and/or bottom holes would allow some real convection and that might do more. There's obvious black anti-vibration stuff on the PCB edge(s) I didn't want to disturb. Didn't figure it'd do or be worth additional effort.
 
Naturally some pics.
 
 
 

 

 

 

[Mad Lust Envy]

I was under the impression that the case acted as a heatsink, so removing it isn't a good idea? I dunno.

 

[jimmers]

  Case modded Vali? Succinct answer - not worth the effort...

AFAIK the heat comes from the output transistors not the valves ( only about 25mW heater)

 

[StanD]

  AFAIK the heat comes from the output transistors not the valves ( only about 25mW heater)

And since it's a Class AB output I doubt that anyone is going to be frying eggs on it.

 

[BobFiggins]

The harsh treble on the HD700 seems to be lessened with the Vali (snare drums and some bass doesn't come off as an ear explosion any more, but "sss" sounds still happen in some songs). I'm in love! Seems like the noise floor is rather audible, and some distortion overall, but it's so nice to listen to after a session on the Valhalla 2. It's like my ears can take a break for a while. I definitely see why you all love this little amp! So very relaxing, and full of detail. I would call it atmospheric, that may sound silly but it feels like the music surrounds me. I forget about the soundstage, the imaging, and I just absorb into the music.
 
If the Lyr 2 is like a Vali but slightly better at everything, I think that's a goal for me to get eventually.

 

[Nauglanch]

  AFAIK the heat comes from the output transistors not the valves ( only about 25mW heater)

Heat's heat and the case as a heat sink is to dissipate heat. Facilitating convection airflow will help cool the heatsink. The additional holes on top just aren't adequate for that.
 
Does the Magni 2 run this hot? I don't have one. Just like the Patsburg and Mustang chips I was measuring - keeping chips cool(er) helps them.  Some small chip sinks could move heat off the output transistors if there's that much heat in that small package.

 

[Eee Pee]

You really think 110 is hot?  Ambient air can be 110.

 

[sling5s]

  Sorry it's late.
These are impressions with Flats.  I just prefer Flats with Grados.  
Very groovy mid bass. Some may find the bass too much with the flat pads but I like the increased mid bass groove and punch.  The mids because of the Flats are warmer and thicker than it would be with the bowls. The Vali slightly smooths out the treble but brings out all the details of the 500e.  It's very musical and fun combo. 
To me the 500e is the most balanced yet musical Grado.  It's musical without being bright and harsh and neutral (for a Grado) without being boring.  
Very good balance for a Grado.  As for the Vali, it enhances all the strengths of the 500e.  I definitely recommend it. 

To add to my comment on the PS500e.  The Vali tends to have slight mid bass emphasis and upper mid emphasis, which makes it lively and energetic but with the PS500e, it adds to the already mid bass emphasis making them a little too mid bass oriented and also shouty at times.  This works for the LCD-2F but not so much for the PS500e.
Which is why I prefer the Lyr 2 with the PS500e.  The Lyr 2 with 75 reflectors is smoother and more balanced. 
 
Having said that, when I really want to rock out and pull out my "air guitar", I plug it in the Vali. The Vali just rocks out with both LCD-2F and PS500e.

 

[Nauglanch]

  You really think 110 is hot?  Ambient air can be 110.

Sure. Most of a years visiting a friend in Beatty 110 wasn't uncommon for our desert expolorations. It's not hot per-se. The computer chips I had the Omega out for typically run around 170F+ on their heatsink. I just like one piece of equipment to not noticeably heat up another. Figured I'd help. It wasn't sufficient. Love the Vali. My now one of a kind one at that.

 

[Matro5]

  when I really want to rock out and pull out my "air guitar", I plug it in the Vali. The Vali just rocks out with both LCD-2F and PS500e.

 
Great info. Thanks so much for posting. 

 

[TwinACStacks]

If I may interject here. Tube amps are designed in a specific way. The fact is they are at their peak performance level when the pre/output tubes are HOT. If you have any experience with Guitar Amps they actually sound best when the Tubes are COOKING. This also applies to Pre-Amp tubes as well. That is why they are equipped with standby switches, to keep the tubes warm. Over cooling will actually be detrimental to the amps peak performance. Trust me the designers know their stuff.
 
I've even searched for upgrade tubes of this type such as Mullard or Telefunken. There are none. The Guys at Schiit have used the best available tubes of this type in their design.
 
JMHO
 

TWIN

 

[Phishin Phool]

  Case modded Vali? Succinct answer - not worth the effort. To fix a non problem. I just figured I'd cool her down in case I later wanted to stack something on top. And I have a milling machine.
 
Having some convenient Type K probes in my hand from some Patsburg & Mustang chip temp measurements - and a warm Vali - I opened her up and pasted down a thermocouple with some Kapton tape. 110.7F, open air stabilized,  with Blues Traveler, into DT-770 Pro 250 ohm.
 
I added another set of vent holes, following the same pattern, with a #4 centering drill on my milling machine.
 
I measured again, once with kapton blocking the new holes (forgot the un-milled before shot) and once after. Only 1F to 1.5F degree or so difference after letting the temps stabilize. 110.7 tube open air; 109 closed one set of holes; 108 two sets of holes.
 
I think some low/side and/or bottom holes would allow some real convection and that might do more. There's obvious black anti-vibration stuff on the PCB edge(s) I didn't want to disturb. Didn't figure it'd do or be worth additional effort.
 
Naturally some pics.
 
 
 

 

 

OT: Glad to see people still enjoy the Blues Travelers. They were still relatively small time when I used to see them (a lot). They would play fraternity parties and local bars on campus when I was in college in the early 90's. Remember partying with John Popper on a few occasions.

 

[StanD]

  If I may interject here. Tube amps are designed in a specific way. The fact is they are at their peak performance level when the pre/output tubes are HOT. If you have any experience with Guitar Amps they actually sound best when the Tubes are COOKING. This also applies to Pre-Amp tubes as well. That is why they are equipped with standby switches, to keep the tubes warm. Over cooling will actually be detrimental to the amps peak performance. Trust me the designers know their stuff.
 
I've even searched for upgrade tubes of this type such as Mullard or Telefunken. There are none. The Guys at Schiit have used the best available tubes of this type in their design.
 
JMHO
 

TWIN

IMO you're comparing two totally different applications of tubes. The intended FR and distortion levels are very different. I haven't yet seen a audiophile amp that has a preamp gain control that is used to deliberately overload the stages preceding the output and allowing that output to be driven into heavy distortion when desired. Many guitar amps have foot switches to toggle the affect of extra gain.
The other use of a standby switch is to have the amp instantly available when needed for performing and silent when not needed,

 

[TwinACStacks]

It is somewhat apples to oranges comparison, yes. The only constant is that tubes are meant to run at peak efficiency at a certain pre-designated operating temperature @ a certain peak wattage @ a maximum output bias before clipping. (Biasing referring to Output Amps) These parameters are taken into consideration in the design of the circuit, bias being controlled by resistors or an adjustable potentiometer. Also the selection of your preamp tubes themselves have an incorporated amount of inherent Gain. Take for instance 12 series Tubes: A 12AX7 has a Gain Value of 100 on a scale of 1 to 100, and while great for a Guitar amp, would be absolute Schite for an audio amp which a 12AU7 with a factor of 19 would be much more suitable. I'm absolutely positive the Schiit designers took that into consideration when they made the Vali and it's case/ cooling provisions. If they hadn't there would be a higher failure/ problem rate.
 
But your point concerning my admittedly awkward comparison is valid. JMHO
 

TWIN

 

[Matro5]

Vali on the way. Planning to use it iMac --> Dragonfly --> Vali --> Grado PS500. Am currently tempted by the new Audezes, as well. 
 
Am curious if anyone in here uses Tidal as a source?