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post your grado mods....
Feb 1, 2017 at 12:47 PM Post #7,562 of 8,992
@Dysnomia, how does the use of the different ear pads affect the sound?  I have quite a bit of spare pads from my various headphones but will have to build an adapter of sorts to use any of them so I'm curious to see if its a worth while experiment.
 
PS: do you have any impression with the stock flats or alternate L or G pads?
 
Feb 2, 2017 at 5:00 AM Post #7,564 of 8,992
davida said:
  @Dysnomia, how does the use of the different ear pads affect the sound?  I have quite a bit of spare pads from my various headphones but will have to build an adapter of sorts to use any of them so I'm curious to see if its a worth while experiment.
 
PS: do you have any impression with the stock flats or alternate L or G pads?
Click to expand...

I used to use S and L-cush back then. The 70mm pad sounds the worst imo, mids and highs sounded recessed and veiled, I guess that's due the the pads covering the outer edge of the drivers.
 
The 100mm velour pads sounds the same as the L-cush imo, but much more comfortable, I could wear them all day.
 
chijirokuro said:
   
Dysnomia: Congratulations, good work... Rholupat cups? I suppose. Thank´s for sharing.
 
Have a good day.
Javier.
Click to expand...

Yep! They're from Rholupat. I also have the black aluminum rod blocks from them too. Really amazing and good quality stuff. 
smily_headphones1.gif

 
Feb 2, 2017 at 6:30 AM Post #7,565 of 8,992
dysnomia said:
  I used to use S and L-cush back then. The 70mm pad sounds the worst imo, mids and highs sounded recessed and veiled, I guess that's due the the pads covering the outer edge of the drivers.
 
The 100mm velour pads sounds the same as the L-cush imo, but much more comfortable, I could wear them all day.
 
Yep! They're from Rholupat. I also have the black aluminum rod blocks from them too. Really amazing and good quality stuff. 
smily_headphones1.gif
Click to expand...

Thanks for the reply, those 100mm pads look like Hifiman pads, I made an adapter to use them on my Stax SRD-34, didn't want to pay $65 + shipping for new Stax pads that were not that comfortable to begin with.
 
I guess I'll hold of making an adapter to use my other pads for now, and I got a set of rod blocks/gimbals from Rholupat also, machine work is really nice but the spring steel used in the headbands that come with the leather headbands is not bent correctly so the ear pads don't seem to rest correctly for me but going to an old Grado headband wire works great.
 
Feb 6, 2017 at 3:00 PM Post #7,567 of 8,992
 
 
 
Quote:
doori said:
Hy grado's fans, I just receive a 125e. Is there mods to do in order to increase 125e's sound or comfort ? Like quarter mod for exemple?
Thx !
Click to expand...

This is what I did to my SR-225e:
Added dynamat in the outer sleeve and felt disk on back of button, dynamat on the back of the driver:

Opened up one extra vent hole on each driver
 
Since then made removable cables using SMC connectors and MDR-7506 headband and cheap G pads:

 
Mar 1, 2017 at 4:02 PM Post #7,570 of 8,992
I have an Epsilon R1 driver sitting here, that may never get put together if I do not move forward with it.
I was under the idea that there was a faq page for modding resources here, but I just can't find it:
 
A) Is there a recommended cable builder with one that can survive the elements? Or should I just order a $30 eBay one?
B) Is there a recommended individual that can solder the components together? Is there also one that would be willing to solder and/or make a cable in exchange for an unopened Magnum v6 driver?
 
Thanks
 
Mar 2, 2017 at 10:17 AM Post #7,571 of 8,992
I have a pair of dead SR60 (not e or i) that I am going to do a StratoKosster mod on. I was drawing up in Solidworks closed back cups for 3D printing and I figured for fun draw up some neat cups for my SR60e that I am going to modify soon. I started to base that on the SR60 cup and then realized that the SR60 cup is a lot thinner then the SR60e. Which got me thinking how does the depth of the cup effect the sound signature?
 
Also I noticed on the earlier pages of the thread a lot of people mentioned using liberators. But it doesn't seem common anymore. Is there a reason for that?
 
Mar 2, 2017 at 4:20 PM Post #7,572 of 8,992
93excivic said:
I have a pair of dead SR60 (not e or i) that I am going to do a StratoKosster mod on. I was drawing up in Solidworks closed back cups for 3D printing and I figured for fun draw up some neat cups for my SR60e that I am going to modify soon. I started to base that on the SR60 cup and then realized that the SR60 cup is a lot thinner then the SR60e. Which got me thinking how does the depth of the cup effect the sound signature?

Also I noticed on the earlier pages of the thread a lot of people mentioned using liberators. But it doesn't seem common anymore. Is there a reason for that?
Click to expand...
Are you going to put the sr60 drivers in a closed cup or put koss drivers in the sr60 cups?
 
Mar 2, 2017 at 4:33 PM Post #7,573 of 8,992
ekehmayu said:
  I have an Epsilon R1 driver sitting here, that may never get put together if I do not move forward with it.
I was under the idea that there was a faq page for modding resources here, but I just can't find it:
 
A) Is there a recommended cable builder with one that can survive the elements? Or should I just order a $30 eBay one?
B) Is there a recommended individual that can solder the components together? Is there also one that would be willing to solder and/or make a cable in exchange for an unopened Magnum v6 driver?
 
Thanks
Click to expand...

 
The man you seek is @Arty McGhee He will build you a cable fit to withstand the apocalypse.
 
There's a wiki here:
 
http://www.head-fi.org/a/grado-modification-overview
 
It covers a lot of the aspects of Grado modding.
 
Mar 2, 2017 at 4:49 PM Post #7,574 of 8,992
fleasbaby said:
ekehmayu said:
 
I have an Epsilon R1 driver sitting here, that may never get put together if I do not move forward with it.
I was under the idea that there was a faq page for modding resources here, but I just can't find it:

A) Is there a recommended cable builder with one that can survive the elements? Or should I just order a $30 eBay one?
B) Is there a recommended individual that can solder the components together? Is there also one that would be willing to solder and/or make a cable in exchange for an unopened Magnum v6 driver?

Thanks
Click to expand...


The man you seek is @Arty McGhee
He will build you a cable fit to withstand the apocalypse./quote]

I really like the cables he made for me. And he's very reasonable.
Click to expand...
 
Mar 2, 2017 at 5:27 PM Post #7,575 of 8,992
7keys said:
Are you going to put the sr60 drivers in a closed cup or put koss drivers in the sr60 cups?
Click to expand...


I am doing Koss drivers in closed cups.
 
But I am also modifying an SR60e with new 3D printed open cups (mostly for looks) but I noticed a lot of the wood cups are deeper so I was thinking of playing depth of the cup.
 
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