[sixstringmonk]

Just wanted to drop a note in this thread in case anyone is worried about latency with the Jotunheim multibit card when it comes to gaming. I've put it through some paces and I don't notice any perceptible lag. I made sure to check some audio & visual cues that are meant to be in sync and they were perfect to my eyes and ears. I also took a look at some audio/video sync tests on youtube and didn't see any issues.

 

[rkw]

Two important pieces of information. One, I see it repeatedly claimed that the DAC modules that you can buy with the Jotunheim are not good. Despite what Schiit claim about figuring something out with an all in one unit that doesn't appear to be the case in practice based on feedback. Buy a Modi Multibit for $250 (as opposed to the $200 multibit module) and apparently you'll be better off. Two, and this I know from experience, do not buy the Schiit Loki. For half the price when factoring in paying shipping you can get Sonarworks' equalizer app. It absolutely crushes the Loki, embarrasses it. Mind you, it's not about you equalizing your headphone and gives you extremely limited options in that respect, even less than the Loki. What it does is it equalizes your headphone for you. Skepticism is fine, but I strongly recommend you try it. All you need to put in is an email address, there's no activation or anything. The value is enormous, made a much bigger positive difference for me than hundreds of dollars spent on upgrading DACs and amps.

Loki and Sonarworks are very different products and serve different purposes. Sonarworks' products are all about correction and calibration, and True-Fi is the minimal consumer version of their Reference 4 product. Loki is not at all about accurate sound. It is an old school equalizer to adjust sound to your personal taste, like the tone controls in a 1980's receiver.

 

[rutter]

You need to equalize first, which is what Sonarworks actually does, before deciding whether you need further changes, which Sonarworks can also apply on the low and high end. After equalizing an LCD-X with Sonarworks I found zero point to Loki and am promptly returning it. I'll try an HD800S with Sonarworks in some time too. Another issue with Loki is that it has just four knobs, but I don't know whether it's the only quality lower price option for hardware "equalization". I put equalization in quotation marks because my impression is equalization actually means flattening the frequency response, which is exactly what Sonarworks does and the Loki can't compete with. As for whether Sonarworks works with mobile devices, I've read that it does but you need to find out. Again, there's a painless free trial. Something else you should be aware of is that there is limitation with what formats Sonarworks works, so check their FAQ.

Also, the Reference 4 product adds very little to True-Fi unless you're dealing with speakers as well, but it's also only $10 more, although some of the speaker stuff may be significantly pricier than that.

 

[Alcophone]

I guess what the question boils down to is, if I have the Jotenheim's input switch set to the bottom (for SE Inputs), will the pre-outs still send a signal from the DAC to an external device?

No. The pre outs provide an attenuated version of the input signal. The input switch selects that input signal. That means if you connect an external DAC to the single ended input, and select that input, the Jotunheim will volume control that signal and pass it on using its rear outputs.
So if you want to use Loki with a Jotunheim, you need an external source.

 

[rutter]

Any issue with background white noise with the Jotunheim? Just noticed that it is present on mine. I think it's just or somewhat above max listening volume but somehow I noticed it and if you turn the knob it becomes quite loud. Is it about the 20-ohm LCD-X I'm currently using, is this something there with any headphone, or? Would using balanced lower the threshold?

 

[zyglrox17]

Any issue with background white noise with the Jotunheim? Just noticed that it is present on mine. I think it's just or somewhat above max listening volume but somehow I noticed it and if you turn the knob it becomes quite loud. Is it about the 20-ohm LCD-X I'm currently using, is this something there with any headphone, or? Would using balanced lower the threshold?

I have zero noise on max volume w/ balanced cable and low gain. Also tested it on high gain just now and there's no white noise. I have the 2nd gen balanced DAC module and LCD-X.

 

[dr cornelius]

[QUOTE="psuKinger, post: 14312754, member: 497517”]... So while I don't need balanced inputs/outputs yet and think I would probably be just fine (for now) with a Modi2/Magni 3 "stack", I'm very tempted (leaning towards, in fact) to just pull the trigger and buy this Jotenheim with one of the two (probably the Balanced) DAC options....[/QUOTE]

If you don’t need balanced, then I wouldn’t suggest the Jotunheim. I’m running balanced studio monitors and balanced HD 600s, so I needed that feature. But if you’re running SE and want to go the Schiit route - I’d suggest the Magni 3/Modi Multibit combo. Later if you want to add the Schiit EQ, than you’ll have that option.

Concerning EQ - try the Sonarworks trial and see if you like it - it’s fun. You still might want an external EQ because the thing that a plug-in to correct your headphones won’t do, is correct for the recording. Sometimes I wonder what system was used for some of the mixes that I hear - with your own EQ you can compensate for certain mix/master decisions...

 

[hikaru12]

Im getting the Jot in this week. I’m getting a pair of Colorados balanced just for the occasion. I wish I had gone Balanced from the start. I let the fear of the Jot being bright stray me away but I’ve always wanted to go balance ever since I got a ZMF Atticus.

I hope the LCD 2s will be a great pairing with these. I’m really looking forward to hearing this amp and finally going fully balanced. Right now I’m running the Project Headbox which is doing a great job of being neutral but bringing out the slam of the Audezes. I’m artifically holding my Gumby back though by going SE since the outputs are summed. I expect to get a detail upgrade and more slam. Any other benefits will be an added bonus! Can’t wait!

 

[K.J.]

Two important pieces of information. One, I see it repeatedly claimed that the DAC modules that you can buy with the Jotunheim are not good. Despite what Schiit claim about figuring something out with an all in one unit that doesn't appear to be the case in practice based on feedback.

There is no evidence backing that up. "Claims" are worthless.

The original 4490 DAC was definitely the weakest link, but the new MB DAC blows it out of the water.

 

[GearMe]

You need to equalize first, which is what Sonarworks actually does, before deciding whether you need further changes, which Sonarworks can also apply on the low and high end.

Hmmm...assuming you want to get to a flat response I guess. I own the Sonarworks product and it's fun to play with but, for the most part, I'd rather listen to the headphones I own in their 'natural' state. From AKG to Audeze to Beyer to Denon to Foster to Grado to HiFiMan to Koss to OPPO to Phillips to Sennheiser to Yamaha...they each bring listening joy in their own way.

I didn't buy Grados or Fostex to turn them into something they aren't...rather hear them with music they excel at and then swap them for something different when I feel like it!

To each his own... I guess.

 

[rutter]

My LCD-X clearly sounds like crap in comparison to the Sonarworks EQ. It's also not something you play with. You play with an "equalizer", Sonarworks actually equalizes in a matter of seconds. If you want to have fun, knock yourself out with a four-knob Loki.

I've repeatedly seen it stated that the multibit DAC module of the Jot is worse than the Modi Multibit, at basically the same price. Could those people be wrong? I can't even begin to answer that question. I'd try to look this up, and if I haven't ordered the stuff yet I'd just order a Modi Multibit with the Jot amp only. Do you have the Modi Multibit to compare? I haven't encountered someone claim they perform the same.

I have zero noise on max volume w/ balanced cable and low gain. Also tested it on high gain just now and there's no white noise. I have the 2nd gen balanced DAC module and LCD-X.

I have a ton of noise single ended when cranked up on high gain and perceptible noise past 3 o'clock on low gain. Tried with a Magni 3 and I only have noise on high gain past around 4 o'clock. I think that's the Modi Multibit. Tried an HE400i as well, problem still there. Serves me right for complimenting it.

 

[rkw]

I've repeatedly seen it stated that the multibit DAC module of the Jot is worse than the Modi Multibit, at basically the same price. Could those people be wrong? I can't even begin to answer that question. I'd try to look this up, and if I haven't ordered the stuff yet I'd just order a Modi Multibit with the Jot amp only. Do you have the Modi Multibit to compare? I haven't encountered someone claim they perform the same

In theory, the Modi Multibit should sound better because it has an external power supply. All of the Jot DAC cards are powered by the USB, which can be a source of noise (not powered by the Jot's internal power supply, which is exclusively for the amp section).

 

[GrussGott]

I have a ton of noise single ended when cranked up on high gain and perceptible noise past 3 o'clock on low gain. Tried with a Magni 3 and I only have noise on high gain past around 4 o'clock. I think that's the Modi Multibit. Tried an HE400i as well, problem still there. Serves me right for complimenting it.

Balanced is way WAY WAY over-rated, especially on this thread. I have zero noise on high gain max volume via either SE to Th-X00 or balanced to HD-600s ... but I used to have a lot of noise and it got worse when I touched the volume pot! I live in an apartment in the center of a city - RF off the charts and noisy AC, so here's what I did to get rid of it:

(1.) Stopped using the Chord Mojo as a dac and switched to Eitr > Mimby
(2.) Upgraded my interconnects to all high quality shielded (yes the arrows mean something and aren't a joke: the interconnect shielding is electrically connected to the downstream ground-plane only, not the upstream one, thus the arrows)
(3.) Upgraded my Jot power cable to a high quality shielded cable plugged directly into the outlet a meter away

My HD 600s mmmmaaaayyyybe sound better balanced, but if so it's extremely subtle, and after hearing the TH-X00 balanced versus I just decided to leave the cable SE and not mod it. That said, my Atticus and Eikon are balanced, but I have the pigtail and, again, maaayyyybe with some songs in certain circumstances but I really haven't tested it.

 

[rutter]

Unfortunately my Modi Multibit has to be screwed up. I have the Schiit RCA and USB cables, tried two different headphones, not even using balanced headphone cables. Second defective Schiit product out of five thus far. Disappointing. Apparently Bifrost Multibit makes exceedingly little sense over the Modi Multibit, so now I have to be inconvenienced and probably pay an extra $30 in the shipping they don't cover in order to get a replacement and send this one back. Annoying. So much want to get a Questyle CMA400i and return all their stuff, just hesitant. The way they're chronically back-ordered is also ridiculous. I actually might just decide to move away from them.

 

[GrussGott]

Unfortunately my Modi Multibit has to be screwed up. I have the Schiit RCA and USB cables, tried two different headphones, not even using balanced headphone cables. Second defective Schiit product out of five thus far. Disappointing. Apparently Bifrost Multibit makes exceedingly little sense over the Modi Multibit, so now I have to be inconvenienced and probably pay an extra $30 in the shipping they don't cover in order to get a replacement and send this one back. Annoying. So much want to get a Questyle CMA400i and return all their stuff, just hesitant. The way they're chronically back-ordered is also ridiculous. I actually might just decide to move away from them.

if you're saying it's defective because you have a low level of noise with no active input, but the unit otherwise works fine, that doesn't sound likely. Have you tried emailing Schiit to let them know what's going on and your thoughts about the failures? If so what do they say?

I have a lot of schiit products and have never had a problem - it sounds like you have EMI issues - so did I and shielding fixed it. I'd recommend blue jeans or pangea cables / interconnects or Audioquest if you're looking to step up*. Any decent cable or most any from amazon have at least a 30 day return policy so you can try them to find out for little to no cost.

*please, for the love of all things internet-holy, please nobody start a cables debate, that's off-topic and best for the "science" forum