[Pricklely Peete]

Is the insert spinning inside the knob body ? If so you need to glue the plastic insert inside the knob so it's all one piece again allowing the knob to turn the pot shaft.

Check that and get back to me....if it does spin freely (meaning the adhesive has failed) use super glue to attach the insert to the knob once again.

Let it dry for a while (5 minutes) before putting the knob back on to try it. Do not glue the insert to the shaft.

Report back ASAP please with your findings and I'll walk you through the repair...(it's easy).

Peete.

 

[csroc]

Quote:

Originally Posted by sandchak /img/forum/go_quote.gif By the looks of the knobs on the Audio Gd's web, it seems the grooves on the knob is made of plastic, maybe that got a little loose, if I was you, first I would just try to move the shaft ( without the knob/dial in place) to see if it was clicking, if that would be the case, maybe I would stuff some paper to into the groove of the knob just to tighten and have a better grip.. its unconventional and maybe even untidy but its worked for me in the past.. Or maybe if you have a pliers, you could try and tighten the groove and see if it works.. well this is all that comes to my mind now.. and I must caution you that I am no expert in all this, so if you end up making it worse.. know that I was only trying to help !!..

Agreed, it looks like the knob has a plastic insert that fits it to the shaft and it probably has some sort of ridges or something on it to grip the shaft. I imagine it's not meant to be removed unfortunately. Paper would work, blue tac would work, a dab of hot melt glue would work too I imagine but I wouldn't recommend using glue to attach it to the shaft. Anything to help lock it in place.

And I see peete went in to more specifics so looks like it's going to be taken care of

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pricklely Peete /img/forum/go_quote.gif Anyone notice in the pics at the website the mains filter caps have changed from RX11 to RZ05 ? I wonder if that makes a difference at all ? I'll have a look and see what I can dig up. It's probably nothing but now I'm curious... Peete.

Interesting catch. I've seen the RX11s in other things I think but I have no idea about its specs and googling has not found much on either that is of any help so I guess you'd need to look elsewhere. I checked digikey for a giggle but neither term brought anything up.

I'm not the best at sleuthing this sort of thing as I don't do it often so I aint much help.

 

[Drosera]

Quote:

Originally Posted by csroc /img/forum/go_quote.gif Interesting catch. I've seen the RX11s in other things I think but I have no idea about its specs and googling has not found much on either that is of any help so I guess you'd need to look elsewhere. I checked digikey for a giggle but neither term brought anything up. I'm not the best at sleuthing this sort of thing as I don't do it often so I aint much help.

As far as I know, these caps are custom made by Nover for Audio-gd. So you would need to mail Kingwa, if you want to know the specs.

 

[les_garten]

To the folks that have the Upgraded Compass that have done some DIY stuff, how do you rate the RCA Jacks? I'm thinking of doing a Project and might buy some from Kingwa and have them thrown in with my REF1 or Compass box. Are they worthwhile?

.

 

[csroc]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Drosera /img/forum/go_quote.gif As far as I know, these caps are custom made by Nover for Audio-gd. So you would need to mail Kingwa, if you want to know the specs.

Interesting, well that'll make it harder to search online for then won't it?

I'm very interested to compare the final Compass against the test Compass. It will be fun to have them side by side and give them a visual comparison in and out as well as listening comparison.

 

[senn_liu]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pricklely Peete /img/forum/go_quote.gif Is the insert spinning inside the knob body ? If so you need to glue the plastic insert inside the knob so it's all one piece again allowing the knob to turn the pot shaft. Check that and get back to me....if it does spin freely (meaning the adhesive has failed) use super glue to attach the insert to the knob once again. Let it dry for a while (5 minutes) before putting the knob back on to try it. Do not glue the insert to the shaft. Report back ASAP please with your findings and I'll walk you through the repair...(it's easy). Peete.

sorry, but i don't understand what you mean by the insert. as far as i can tell the knob is in one piece, no loose parts, so the problem is between the knob and the pot shaft. thanks for your attention btw.

 

[Pricklely Peete]

Copper billet/gold plate are always preferable over the usual brass/gold plate types. How that translates to sound quality is the big question mark at the moment but I would recommend the copper billet types for any serious high end gear as a whole pile of small upgrades usually add up to make a difference to the overall end product.

I use Edison Price Music posts for all my speakers over the regular posts (brass gold plated types) and for me the solid Copper types do give a boost in overall SQ.

In other words Les...I'd definitely opt for the better jacks every time. I also want to emphasize that I do not endorse jacks like WBT etc...because the cost does not match the performance increase. The sweet spot IMO is the copper billet/gold plates types Kingwa and other parts suppliers sell for 30US and under a pair.

As far as the RZ05 caps are concerned...the Nover site has no such line so csroc's advice to ask Kingwa about them is the best choice for any info.

I'll email him about those caps and relay that info here when I get it.

Peete.

 

[Pricklely Peete]

Quote:

Originally Posted by senn_liu /img/forum/go_quote.gif sorry, but i don't understand what you mean by the insert. as far as i can tell the knob is in one piece, no loose parts, so the problem is between the knob and the pot shaft. thanks for your attention btw.

The center assembly of the knob itself is a plastic insert that is glued to the knob. Does this section spin freely or is it firmly attached to the knob ?

If it is the latter then try using plumber's thread tape to build up the shaft diameter a little so the knob insert grabs the pot shaft firmly and allows it to function properly again.

The tape I'm talking about is kinda pinkish in color and is very thin (Teflon thread tape sometimes called pipe dope ). Don't use electrical tape as it just ends up bunching when you try and slide the knob back on.

Aluminum knobs always have a glued in plastic insert (for the most part) to keep machining costs low. Check that insert please and let me know what you find out.

Peete.

 

[sandchak]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pricklely Peete /img/forum/go_quote.gif Anyone notice in the pics at the website the mains filter caps have changed from RX11 to RZ05 ? I wonder if that makes a difference at all ? I'll have a look and see what I can dig up. It's probably nothing but now I'm curious... Peete.

I had noticed that a couple of days ago, and asked Kingwa the difference.. this is what he said :

Quote:

They are same. These caps all are our customer order, not our order they can't change the QC. The No. I think is the batchs sign.

meaning : they are the same, all these caps are custom ordered and unless specified they (NOVER) cant change the quality. and the difference in numbers may just be a sign of different batch..

I did not dig further, but maybe Peete who is more knowledgeable can do that ..

 

[senn_liu]

the insert is firmly attached to the knob. so looks like i'll have to find a way to make the fit between the knob and the shaft tighter. tried regular clear tape, but it didn't work well. may have to find that tape which you mentioned. thanks a lot. any further suggestions are welcome.

 

[Pricklely Peete]

Sandchak the RZ and RX designations denote differences in performance...have a look at the Nover site here.....as for the numbers themselves I have no idea what they mean.

News from Nover, manufacturer of Electrolytic and Tantalum Capacitors

I'm just wondering if the RZ series is better than the RX series in terms of ripple/ lower ESR etc over the RX type ?

Peete.

 

[csroc]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pricklely Peete /img/forum/go_quote.gif As far as the RZ05 caps are concerned...the Nover site has no such line so csroc's advice to ask Kingwa about them is the best choice for any info.

It was actually Drosera's advice but I certainly agree with it too.

 

[sandchak]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pricklely Peete /img/forum/go_quote.gif Sandchak the RZ and RX designations denote differences in performance...have a look at the Nover site here.....as for the numbers themselves I have no idea what they mean. News from Nover, manufacturer of Electrolytic and Tantalum Capacitors I'm just wondering if the RZ series is better than the RX series in terms of ripple/ lower ESR etc over the RX type ? Peete.

Thats what I meant when I said you would be in better position as I am a novice when it comes to technical stuffs.. maybe you should ask Kingwa, and if you have already, I am sure his reply to you would be more technical..
But do let us know what the difference might be..

 

[Pricklely Peete]

Quote:

Originally Posted by senn_liu /img/forum/go_quote.gif the insert is firmly attached to the knob. so looks like i'll have to find a way to make the fit between the knob and the shaft tighter. tried regular clear tape, but it didn't work well. may have to find that tape which you mentioned. thanks a lot. any further suggestions are welcome.

Email Kingwa and see what he has to say about it......another idea is the non permanent loc- tite (SP ?) compound (blue color) that will "lock" the knob in place to the shaft. That's somewhat of a messy solution though and would be a method of last resort. The blue version of the stuff gives you a semi-permanent bond meaning if you have to take the knob off at a later date the glue will break it's bond (with some effort) allowing the knob to slide off undamaged.

I'd try the Teflon tape first (after Kingwa's suggestions).

Peete.

 

[les_garten]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pricklely Peete /img/forum/go_quote.gif Email Kingwa and see what he has to say about it......another idea is the non permanent loc- tite (SP ?) compound (blue color) that will "lock" the knob in place to the shaft. That's somewhat of a messy solution though and would be a method of last resort. The blue version of the stuff gives you a semi-permanent bond meaning if you have to take the knob off at a later date the glue will break it's bond (with some effort) allowing the knob to slide off undamaged. I'd try the Teflon tape first (after Kingwa's suggestions). Peete.

On Kingwa's site, that knob doesn't appear to be toothed. Looks like it was a friction fit with a split shaft maybe.

.