USB-powered amp/ps
Jan 9, 2007 at 1:29 PM Post #16 of 29
If you were a bit creative, you might find there is someplace on the laptop case you could install a power jack fed from the battery at higher voltage. This leaves enough voltage headroom that you might even be able to use a linear regulator to clean up the laptop switching supply noise.

As for running from USB 5V, the best solution is probably the most obvious, to use a switching voltage boost circuit and then significant LC filtration to clean it up.
 
Jan 9, 2007 at 4:58 PM Post #17 of 29
For what it is worth my HP Dac amp sounds really really good, there is no noise or distortion and it plays as loud as I want (very very!) Sounds better than any of my Mint's.

I've used and extensively auditioned pairs of the LM4562, AD8058 and LT1364 which all work fine on the 9v / +-4.5v supply on the HP Dac.
 
Jan 9, 2007 at 6:38 PM Post #18 of 29
Quote:

As for running from USB 5V, the best solution is probably the most obvious, to use a switching voltage boost circuit and then significant LC filtration to clean it up.


Maybe obvious but that "significant" filtratration will be

A-costly and take up a lot of board space
B-likely will still be lacking in SQ if you take the exact same amp and compare with a proper power supply.

That last should be the measure,the goal aimed for or you already start out with an amp with limited SQ.Get the two to sound identical ? You nailed the design................maybe.Too many variables for an absolute answer,especially if one method introduces MORE problems needing to be fixed which in the end may well be a bloated over-complicated design.

Another option is to get your head wrapped around the idea that op-amps are not the only method of powering headphones with a battery power supply.There are a damn lot of dedicated amplifers coming out and some are quite good when compared to underpowered op-amps.

the TI TPA6120 is already established as a good performer but it specs out out +/- 5VDC minimum .Possibly usable with a pair of low noise Linear LDO's with 300mV dropout thugh someone would need to test that out

Maxim has some intersting parts that use a negative charge pump to get the -VDC to bias the amps from a single +5VDC supply AND incorporate "pop-click" supression-no small thing in a headphone amp using a jack type that shorts out when you insert the plug or that builds a charge on any output caps when there is a no-load condition

http://www.maxim-ic.com/quick_view2.cfm/qv_pk/3632
http://www.maxim-ic.com/appnotes.cfm...te_number/2980
http://www.maxim-ic.com/quick_view2.cfm/qv_pk/4628
http://www.maxim-ic.com/view_press_r...release_id/915

this one maybe a good solution in a mixed signal Digital/Analog device

http://www.maxim-ic.com/view_press_r...elease_id/1159


How do they sound is the question but if as good as an op-amp using a DC converter would make for a much cheaper and easier to design amp.If not the "idea" of a negative charge pump may be worth exploring...........
 
Jan 9, 2007 at 9:47 PM Post #21 of 29
Quote:

Originally Posted by kipman725 /img/forum/go_quote.gif
mobile phones have IC's inside them that step up DC voltages by transforming it into ac and back to dc inside them. By using one of those chips you could make a usb Powersupply for your existing amp.


Hehe, that will surely requires alot of salvaging and tinkering... Well, I have one old Siemens C25 cell phone and might even beat the crap out of it to see if the PS can be extracted. I doubt it with my skills...
smily_headphones1.gif


However, I intend to take a closer look at hpdac's schematics and see if I can extract some sort of ps circuitry. Sadly, I will not have enought time this month as my studies takes up 100% of my time. My normal day this week has been wake up at 9am, work with my thesis to 4am and repeat the cycle. In addition, my GF is bitching about we arent spending enough freaking quality time!
biggrin.gif


Thank you guys for the input and please continue.
 
Sep 5, 2012 at 11:31 AM Post #23 of 29
Hello,
 
I'm currently designing a power supply for a portable SOHA type hybrid amp project with the russian rod pentodes 1j24b(1Ж24Б). The amp will be powered by 4 Nokia 3.7V Li-Ion cells. Here are the schematics of what I came up with so far:
 
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/641/psul.png/
 
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/7/ampl.png/
 
and the (still unfinished) pcb layout:
 
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/838/pcbtestlayout.png/
 
In the first pic you see(going downwards) the
 
1. HV B+ supply for the "plate"
2. Filament supply for both tubes
3. OP-Amp supply
 
The schematic of point 1 was directly copied from this article: http://www.maximintegrated.com/app-notes/index.mvp/id/1751
and I just removed the second stage of the charge pump since I won't need >45V for the plate. I adjusted the external FB resistors R5 and R6 for ~50V. My main conern here is the ripple voltage which I speculate might bring the tubes to oscillate, considering the high switch frequency of 1MHz of the converter. I would be happy to get some design suggestions of how to  smooth out or completely eliminate the ripple voltage or if there's something else I've missed.
   In point 2 you see the filament supply. I copied the schematic from yet another article from Maxim-IC: http://www.maximintegrated.com/app-notes/index.mvp/id/3241 . At the input we have a USB/DC li-ion battery charger IC and then a LDO linear regulator, whose output I adapted for 1.2V to power the filaments. They will be connected in parallel of course. I think there are no problems here, considering the filaments draw combined only 26mA(see datasheet below).
   The last point is the most problematic one - the PS for the Op-Amps(I decided to use two OPA827's). I figured I could use a low noise LDO to have good line regulation @ 5V output. So this is what a single 3.7V cell is connected to at the input. Next I have a boost converter that is adjusted for ~24V output. I have followed the design instructions in the datasheet of this IC and this is what I get(in theory):
max switching frequency: ~ 884KHz
(possible?) load current: 45mA
switching frequency at load current: 880Khz
maximum load current @ 80% efficiency: 37mA
 
Next I have the rail-splitter IC TLE2426. My questions are: 1. I know the quiescent current needed for powering both Op-Amps is around 8mA. So are the rest of the ~30mA sufficient for driving, let's say ~300 Ohm cans?  and 2. Again, how can I deal with ripple voltage and noise? Is this supply viable at all? Or I will get crap sound anyway if I go with this design?
 
 
In the second pic you see one channel of the amp. The upper schematic is complete, the lower is just the same tube connected normally(pentode).
 
1j24b datasheet(I'll be happy to translate if you can't read russian): http://home.germany.net/101-30498/1j24b.gif
 
I would be happy to get some feedback from you guys and sorry if I resurrect an old topic, but I think this is the right place to raise my concerns and get an honest opinion. BTW this is my first post, so sorry if I messed up in some other regard.
 
Sep 7, 2012 at 9:28 AM Post #24 of 29
Allright. Judging by the lack of comments/suggestions there is either
A. no interest, since it has been discussed ad nauseam and the conclusion is that switching supplies are not good for audio purposes.
B. not much familiarity with russian subminiature tubes and you think I'm crazy to want to power any kind of tube using batteries.
 
I hope it is B rather than A. Maybe here I should elaborate more on the 1J24B - at least present a concise summary of what these little tubes are.
The tubes of the 1Jxxy family employ a rod construction for the various grids instead of helical wirewound grids we find in conventional tubes. The reason being that they used a then "new" technology to control the current from cathode to anode - electrostatic lensing. This means that we have two rods paced equidistantly from the passing electron beam from cathode to anode. When negative voltage is applied they form an electrostatic lens which supresses(squashes?) the electron beam, reducing its density and thus a smaller amount of current passes through(at least that's how I understand it). The process is similar in nature to the vertical/horizontal deflection in CRT's. The advantage is, that there is virtually no partition noise and the small physical overall diameter since the rods are placed very close together. Here are the electrical characteristics for the 1J24B in particular:
 
Nominal electrical characteristics
 
Directly heated cathode.
Filament Voltage(Vf): 1.2 V
Filament Current(If): 13 ±2 mA
Anode Voltage(Va): 60 V
Anode Current(Ia): 0.95 ±0.45 mA
Screen Grid voltage(Vg2): 45 V
Suppressor Grid Current(Ig3): <= 0.1 mA
Transconductance(gm): 0.9 ±0.3 mA / V
Transconductance with Vf = 0.95V: >=0.48 mA / V
 
At first glance we can see, that it has a very energy efficient cathode and IMO are very suitable for battery operation.
A more detailed article regarding the history, construction and operation of these tubes can be found here: http://www.radios-tv.co.uk/?q=node/83
 
If you are interested what I did on the amp schematic:
1. the tube is connected as a triode.
2. I experimented by adding a CCS using two depletion mode MOSFET's(LND150) in a cascode configuration, adjusted at 0.5mA.
3. The tube is with a fixed bias using a small signal diode with forward voltage around 580mV, considering there's a constant current of 0.5mA flowing through it.
 
The rest is the same as the SOHA schematic. These are just some ideas. I haven't tested the circuit in the real world, yet.
 
I hope that there will be at least one reply now. I didn't want to start a new topic, since my questions/ideas are more or less related to what has been discussed so far.
 
Sep 7, 2012 at 10:53 AM Post #25 of 29
You should have started a new thread instead of resurrect a thread that has been dead for 5 years with a title that does not indicate anything close to what you are looking for in terms of opinion/feedback.

Suggest you open a new thread, appropriately titled and place your last two posts into it.
 
Sep 7, 2012 at 3:39 PM Post #26 of 29
Well, I decided not to, based on my experiences in other forums, where there was a strict policy to keep relevant information condensed in threads, whose content coincides to a great percentage with it. Here in particular have been discussed:
 
  1. switching power supplies
  2. dc-dc step up converters(boost converters) and low-dropout regulators
  3. usb power / charging
  4. portable/battery operated headphone amplifiers
 
That's why I decided to adress my questions regarding a power supply that
 
  1. uses dc-dc step up converters and LDO regulators
  2. is designed to be powered from a Li-Ion cell pack (battery)
  3. incorporates usb charging
  4. is destined for a portable modified SOHA headphone amplifier
 
here. I am sorry if I have broken some rules of "posting etiquette" on this site, by asking relevant questions. If it is OK with the Mods I will start a new thread, where I will post the same information and questions regarding the PS(they can clean up this "dead" thread of my posts afterwards). If there is no interest - just delete all my posts along with my account. I would be clearly in the wrong place here!
 
Sep 7, 2012 at 6:52 PM Post #27 of 29
You could try this:- http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/isolated-dc-dc-converters/6727486/
 
5V in +/-9V out, 56mA. 1W. Most of the noise out is high frequency. If you don't require to drive phones with a high current requirement, it's tailor-made for your application. Probably happiest with a minimum load of 5mA.
 
There are lots of these monolithic converters available, it's just a question of finding one that suits your application and somewhere to source it locally (or somebody who'll ship it at reasonable cost).
 
Just look through the list here if you don't like this one - http://uk.rs-online.com/web/c/?sra=oss&searchTerm=monolithic+dc-dc+converter&x=0&y=0
 
w
 
Sorry, just realised this is a resurrected thread...
 
Sep 8, 2012 at 12:21 AM Post #28 of 29
Well, I decided not to, based on my experiences in other forums, where there was a strict policy to keep relevant information condensed in threads, whose content coincides to a great percentage with it. Here in particular have been discussed:

  • switching power supplies
  • dc-dc step up converters(boost converters) and low-dropout regulators
  • usb power / charging
  • portable/battery operated headphone amplifiers

That's why I decided to adress my questions regarding a power supply that

  • uses dc-dc step up converters and LDO regulators
  • is designed to be powered from a Li-Ion cell pack (battery)
  • incorporates usb charging
  • is destined for a portable modified SOHA headphone amplifier

here. I am sorry if I have broken some rules of "posting etiquette" on this site, by asking relevant questions. If it is OK with the Mods I will start a new thread, where I will post the same information and questions regarding the PS(they can clean up this "dead" thread of my posts afterwards). If there is no interest - just delete all my posts along with my account. I would be clearly in the wrong place here!


Dude, lighten up already. No one is giving you grief. I am trying to help you get the feedback you seek.

Go ahead and open another thread. You do not need any permission. The goal here is to open up the discussion to the widest audience possible. A fresh thread, specifically titled helps that goal.
 
Sep 9, 2012 at 2:57 AM Post #29 of 29
Quote:
Quote:

Thanks every1 for the help, apparently bad/complicated idea.


not a bad idea at all,a good thread.

Complicated ? Can be if you are trying to get beyong just powering the device from the buss to creating something that sounds as good as a non USB-buss powered amp.

You can get there by using a "slow" op-amp with a DC-DC converter but that converter needs to be good at audio frequencies,needs proper decoupling plus would be best served by having a shunt reg following it or you can use one of the new single supply low power op-amps,easily sounding as good as a better chip done with an improper power source,or if all you need is current drive for low impedance cans one of the drivers that operate down in the low voltage region.

comes down to what you need to drive and then you look at what voltages you have available.If a single +5VDC meant for driving voltage hungry headphones you are limiting yourself if you try to split it into two voltages unless you increase the voltage so it is better to go with a singe polarity op-amp or the DC converter.You may get volume but no way you get any headroom for peaks so you kill the dynamics or you use the "trick" of Fake Dynamics which is an improperly filtered DC-DC converter tossing artifacts into the sound that when the amp runs out out headroom sounds like upper octave detail hence the appearance the music is "exciting" so considered dynamic.

Quote:

i mean, headroom bitheads are USB powered amps AND dacs


DACs are another audio device that respond well to "feeding" but being already low voltage devices having their own internal single polarity CMOS Op-amp stages I sometimes wonder if it wouldn't just be better to tap the signal at the DAC output itself and couple it directly to the output jacks through a DC blocking cap and call it a day rather than screw around adding ANOTHER op-amp (op-amp to op-amp) unless you need the current drive and then why not shoot right to a low power buffer ? If you need more voltage then yes,you are stuck with it but if not then just another useless addition mucking things up.

I have zero clue what Headroom uses or how they go about it but would be very surprised if the buss powered portables sounded as good as the battery operated versions.

if there are other ways to get from A-to-B I don't think I know them and would be REAL intersted in someone explaining the "this is how you do it rick" part
wink.gif



Quote:

Otherwise, the schematic from the hpdac is online so you can copy the dc-dc converter from there. PCB layout is important to keeping it stable, however.


anything that operates in the Mhz range (digital,DC Converters,High Speed Analog) is a pain in the ass because you are no longer dealing with audio frequencies but RF so to get up to speed better reading material would be antenna theory and radio theory not audio primers and definately NOT the manufacturer data sheets which are mostly meant to tell a manufacturer using the parts how to best save a buck rather than how best to do it......


agree with most said here, except the driving headphones direct from dac... dacs will not cope well with this at all, even the voltage out dacs usually come with reasonably high output impedance and need some sort of output resistance to buffer them from parasitic capacitance, inductance etc of the headphone cable and transducers. they are also pretty badly current limited and voltage limited.
 
the biggest barrier here driving the amp from USB is the ground connection to the computer that comes with it. sure filtering and regulating the power will help, but unless you somehow isolate the ground you'll still have some issues. some computers are worse than others here and EMI is a bit of a buzzword at the moment, leveraged by manufacturers because its not always well understood by the consumer. it possibly evokes more fear than reasonable, given proper design and testing techniques, but its definitely a factor if you are driving your analogue stages directly from it as well.
 

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