Home-Made IEMs
May 7, 2024 at 6:25 AM Post #15,993 of 16,066
Hi guys , i just got some sonion 2389d . I think it should be wired like that right?
:)
In this config, if the black squares are caps, the top driver is connected with a 2nd order crossover (12dB/oct), this might not be the most optimal unless the goal is to boost only the highest frequencies in a narrow range
 
May 7, 2024 at 11:05 AM Post #15,995 of 16,066
In this config, if the black squares are caps, the top driver is connected with a 2nd order crossover (12dB/oct), this might not be the most optimal unless the goal is to boost only the highest frequencies in a narrow range
I’ve changed it. I just ran negative terminals separately with cap . Middle stays the same.
Also, i do feel i need lil more mid frequencys, Since i run 2389d with sonion 38 . well, lets see .:)
 
May 8, 2024 at 8:21 AM Post #15,997 of 16,066
I’ve changed it. I just ran negative terminals separately with cap . Middle stays the same.
Also, i do feel i need lil more mid frequencys, Since i run 2389d with sonion 38 . well, lets see .:)
Lose the center tap - connect normally - this will give you more mids as your crossover will move an octave down. 2389 is already very low impedance, in parallel dual that impedance is halved further with center tap that impedance is halved once again, you are looking at 2.5 ohms at 500Hz if my quick math is correct.
 
May 8, 2024 at 1:24 PM Post #15,998 of 16,066
Lose the center tap - connect normally - this will give you more mids as your crossover will move an octave down. 2389 is already very low impedance, in parallel dual that impedance is halved further with center tap that impedance is halved once again, you are looking at 2.5 ohms at 500Hz if my quick math is correct.
Do you think I should wire them separately?
Also,should I always run caps with positive? Because on the graph 📈 I don’t see difference.

I was planning to run first 2389 with 22 uf cap and second with 2.2 or 1 uf.
I spent sometime on how to wire the 2389 , because I don’t want over heat the drivers :) like i always do , I’ve wasted some many drivers like that .
 
May 8, 2024 at 1:44 PM Post #15,999 of 16,066
Do you think I should wire them separately?
Also,should I always run caps with positive? Because on the graph 📈 I don’t see difference.

I was planning to run first 2389 with 22 uf cap and second with 2.2 or 1 uf.
I spent sometime on how to wire the 2389 , because I don’t want over heat the drivers :) like i always do , I’ve wasted some many drivers like that .
Ive used 4.7uf or 10uf to one driver and 0.47 or 0.82 to the other. I also use like 5-10 ohms in series before the caps to even out the signal.
 
May 9, 2024 at 6:26 AM Post #16,000 of 16,066
Do you think I should wire them separately?
Also,should I always run caps with positive? Because on the graph 📈 I don’t see difference.

I was planning to run first 2389 with 22 uf cap and second with 2.2 or 1 uf.
I spent sometime on how to wire the 2389 , because I don’t want over heat the drivers :) like i always do , I’ve wasted some many drivers like that .
You need to do some calculations to understand where you are first, otherwise you are going in blind.
22uF 2389 (single, no center cap) gives you cut off fr at 830Hz with center tap that becomes roughly 1.6kHz ( in reality probably closer to 1kHz as the impedance rises and is not linear)
2.2uF 2389 (single, no center cap) would give you a cut off 4.2kHz and 1uF would be 6kHz cut off, half coil would move those higher (again not by straight factor of 2 due to non-linear impedance)
So if you have 38d1xj which doesn't really go above 400Hz you don't have enough frequency between 1.6kHz and 400Hz (2 octaves) which causes problems with midrange, wiring normally without center tap will improve the midrange situation a bit, but you probably need to go for 40uF cap to move the crossover to about 580Hz.

If you have a problem with overheating when soldering - 1. use heat-sink - clamps or vice 2. solder permanent wires to the drivers and simply switch components at the end of those wires, you don't have to redo the whole wiring when you are only changing capacitors.
 
May 9, 2024 at 1:41 PM Post #16,001 of 16,066
You need to do some calculations to understand where you are first, otherwise you are going in blind.
22uF 2389 (single, no center cap) gives you cut off fr at 830Hz with center tap that becomes roughly 1.6kHz ( in reality probably closer to 1kHz as the impedance rises and is not linear)
2.2uF 2389 (single, no center cap) would give you a cut off 4.2kHz and 1uF would be 6kHz cut off, half coil would move those higher (again not by straight factor of 2 due to non-linear impedance)
So if you have 38d1xj which doesn't really go above 400Hz you don't have enough frequency between 1.6kHz and 400Hz (2 octaves) which causes problems with midrange, wiring normally without center tap will improve the midrange situation a bit, but you probably need to go for 40uF cap to move the crossover to about 580Hz.

If you have a problem with overheating when soldering - 1. use heat-sink - clamps or vice 2. solder permanent wires to the drivers and simply switch components at the end of those wires, you don't have to redo the whole wiring when you are only changing capacitors.
Thanks man! Im really bad with math, sometimes when im confused, i just trust my ears .
What if i wire one 2389 center tap, and other one normally, since ill get mids from one of 2389 ?


Also , is it really matter if i put yellow damp close to driver or far from the driver(sonion 38) ?

Thanks you guys for tips .
 
May 9, 2024 at 1:51 PM Post #16,002 of 16,066
Thanks man! Im really bad with math, sometimes when im confused, i just trust my ears .
What if i wire one 2389 center tap, and other one normally, since ill get mids from one of 2389 ?


Also , is it really matter if i put yellow damp close to driver or far from the driver(sonion 38) ?

Thanks you guys for tips .
I use tube diameter as my damper on a 38 w/ ferro fluid.
 
May 10, 2024 at 7:16 AM Post #16,004 of 16,066
Thanks man! Im really bad with math, sometimes when im confused, i just trust my ears .
What if i wire one 2389 center tap, and other one normally, since ill get mids from one of 2389 ?


Also , is it really matter if i put yellow damp close to driver or far from the driver(sonion 38) ?

Thanks you guys for tips .
Lol, you think I'm doing any math haha, use online calculators, you just have to know impedance plot of the driver, which you could technically measure yourself.
What if i wire one 2389 center tap, and other one normally, since ill get mids from one of 2389 ?
Yeah of course you can do that, just again be mindful of the crossover frequency - in that configuration 6-8kHz could be a sweet-spot
Also , is it really matter if i put yellow damp close to driver or far from the driver(sonion 38) ?
what is the exact model of the driver you are using? 38AM007 or 38d1xj, there's considerable difference in response between standard version and version with Acupass
 
May 10, 2024 at 8:33 AM Post #16,005 of 16,066
When you're trying to crossover drivers, do you have to take into account the driver's own impedance? Does every driver have to have similar impedances for them to work well together? When calculating for R for high/low pass filters, what else should be taken into account besides the resistor to be added, if the resistor is necessary after all.
Low-pass-filter-diagram.png
High-pass-filter-diagram2.png
 

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