I'm 99% sure it's Eindhoven. These codes were sometimes reused as time passed.
You can see an early 60s snapshot of the codes at:
Notice the empty spot where the factory code 5 likely was earlier.
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I'm 99% sure it's Eindhoven. These codes were sometimes reused as time passed.
You can see an early 60s snapshot of the codes at:
Notice the empty spot where the factory code 5 likely was earlier.
ymc226
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Listening to my new WA5-LE with new tubes. The left channel just went dead and all tubes still seem to have light. Do I just start replacing tube sets to see if it is the driver, power or rectifier?
Driver = Woo supplied 6SN7 in Westinghouse box
Power = new EML 300B XLS
Rectifier = new Brimar Z4GY
Also, how long after I turn off amplifier before I can pull tubes and retest?
Driver = Woo supplied 6SN7 in Westinghouse box
Power = new EML 300B XLS
Rectifier = new Brimar Z4GY
Also, how long after I turn off amplifier before I can pull tubes and retest?
Congrats on your new WA5-LE! Welcome to the club!
With one channel going bad like that I would first start with cable connections to your source. If you are plugged into a computer I would reboot and un-plug and replug the USB/Coax/Optical connection. Then work your way forward to the connections on your WA5 and then go to the tubes. I always unplug my components from the AC outlet (Not the computer) before I do any troubleshooting. I also like to let my tubes cool down so I don't burn myself. Just my 2 cents.
ru4music
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Yes, I noticed that earlier, and saw other data for the Factory Code "5" to be "Toshiba Japan" which didn't seem right to me for that early of year. It seems to me that Phillips tooling didn't start there until at least the 60's. That is one reason I thought I might be dealing with a different variation of the tube code and went down the "+" Factory Code route. Thanks!
Badas
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I just got my first tube amplifier a week ago and I have a question about my used rectifier tubes.
I am not sure if they where there from the start, but my Brimar 5z4GY rectifier tubes has white dots on top of the heating element and I wanted to make sure that it is normal or the both tubes need to be replaced? (Picture attached below)
^
What he said. Mine has gone chrome on top and tinted dark inside. I've done about 600 hours. Sounds better than ever.
Do you have a headphone out on your DAC? Or some place you can check before you get to the amp? One night I was getting something weird with the amp and I didn't realize that I had accidentally bumped a function button on my DAC (after swapping out a set of tubes I just got). For new tubes I would be surprised if they failed, so far my experience has been new tubes are good. The problems for me have all been from the drivers and especially some of the used tubes I tried to buy had major problems.
Someone else recommended getting some vinyl gloves to handle the tubes. You'll get some increase grip and help avoid getting finger oils on the glass. My metric is how quickly the tubes cool off to where I can handle it. I'll typically give it at least 2 min to cool off. I'm running new Brimar Z4GY (and with a little silver spot there too which is normal), And EML 300B (not XLS).
ymc226
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Quote:
I checked all the connections and my DAC is out of the way so no way I even touched it. I replaced the driver tubes with another pair and everything worked. After a few hours, I went back and put back the Woo supplied tubes, problem reappeared and replaced with another pair with everything back to normal. Will email Woo tomorrow to see if they can help. Only 7 hours on their supplied drivers.
I checked all the connections and my DAC is out of the way so no way I even touched it. I replaced the driver tubes with another pair and everything worked. After a few hours, I went back and put back the Woo supplied tubes, problem reappeared and replaced with another pair with everything back to normal. Will email Woo tomorrow to see if they can help. Only 7 hours on their supplied drivers.
Glad you figured it out. If you only have 7 hrs on them then I think Woo should replace. That said you're probably better off looking for better driver tubes and not buying the 6SN7s from Woo. You may be able to find the upgraded RCA 6SN7 GT for much cheaper (like $30 instead of $330). Right now I'd say I prefer the cheap RCA 6C8G to the nicer 6SN7s that I've heard.
Good deal. I have to second phase0's recommendation get different drivers. You will be much happier with the sound.
Badas
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I agree with that statement. The worst 6F type I heard was the Sylvania 6F8G and that was better than the best 6SN7 type I heard.
I've also got a RCA 6F8G with the same plates as the 6SN7 type and it sounds way ahead.
TSRP 6SN7 is suppose to be superb but goes for a fortune ($600-$800 a set). I use the TSRP 6C8G and it is suppose to have the same sound for a fraction of the price for a 6SN7 type.
ymc226
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Thanks all,
I have only 1 extra pair of drivers, these being RCA 6SN7's that I bought matched from George Lens when I got my EML power and rectifier tubes. I read or quickly glanced over all the posts #2000 to present on this thread.
As my amp is a WA5-LE, I understand that the 6C8Gs and 6F8Gs (except NU) are the ones to go for. Also C3Gs more recently got good reviews but they are metal shrouded so that is a minus in terms of looks but have great clarity from several posts. All this means that I have a message into Woo for 6C8G/6F8G to 6SN7 and C3G to 6SN7 adapters.
I've in the US and since I'm new to tubes, am more willing to pay a premium for tubes that have been tested with some back up in terms of guarantee rather than taking my chances on Ebay. I've bought from Brent Jesse and am thinking of using Andy at Vintage Tube services. Any other dealer that people trust with a good selection of tubes?
I have only 1 extra pair of drivers, these being RCA 6SN7's that I bought matched from George Lens when I got my EML power and rectifier tubes. I read or quickly glanced over all the posts #2000 to present on this thread.
As my amp is a WA5-LE, I understand that the 6C8Gs and 6F8Gs (except NU) are the ones to go for. Also C3Gs more recently got good reviews but they are metal shrouded so that is a minus in terms of looks but have great clarity from several posts. All this means that I have a message into Woo for 6C8G/6F8G to 6SN7 and C3G to 6SN7 adapters.
I've in the US and since I'm new to tubes, am more willing to pay a premium for tubes that have been tested with some back up in terms of guarantee rather than taking my chances on Ebay. I've bought from Brent Jesse and am thinking of using Andy at Vintage Tube services. Any other dealer that people trust with a good selection of tubes?
Porteroso
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For what it's worth, I've never gotten screwed on a tube deal on ebay. Most tube sellers have sold many, many tubes on ebay, and are much cheaper than other places. It is a little bit of a hassle, but I doubt it actually takes any more time than contacting someone and asking about their stock.
leftside
Headphoneus Supremus
Perhaps a couple of you guys have been very unlucky with 6SN7's and lucky with 6C8G's/6F8G's or I've been lucky with 6SN7's and unlucky with 6C8G's/6F8G's? I'll have to try a few more, but the 6C8G's and 6F8G's I've tried have been the worst driver tubes I've tried in my amp. Noisy, humming and sensitive (microphonic).
Where is everyone getting their 6C8G and 6F8G adapters from? Ebay? Is there a supplier in the USA that offers the adapters?
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