[artemart]

  If the tubes are NOS, they will almost certainly test within 10% of each other, especially if they were made around the same time. I wouldn't worry about it in the slightest. Matched pairs are pretty overrated. I have never seen someone say "I put in a set of x tubes, and couldn't stand them. They obviously weren't matched." I've put in tubes, same manufacturer, but different construction, and thought they sounded great. It's all in the eye (ear) of the beholder, but especially for same tube, never used, you don't need to worry about it being tested or not. If you were to test your tubes, they would test as matched. And what is matched anyways. If a seller has a pair within 2%, they'll tell you that only tubes within 2% are truly matched. I've seen 2% listed as "super matched," I've seen 5% said to be the gold standard for matched, and 10% as well. And again, to date, I've never seen someone say they could tell the difference.

 
Thank you for this helpful information, this means that I can buy a single 6F8G tube to get a set of 6F8G tubes.
 
I was given a set but due to USPS poor handling of the package one of the tubes broke (picture below).
 

 

[reeltime]

 
I've just been listening to a Mullard GZ34 metal base over the weekend that has a lot more than 48+ hours on them.
I agree with your muddy statement.
 
I was gonna keep quiet as it will upset some members but I have to say the Mullard GZ34 is very highly over rated. What. Where is the treble?

Just my opinion but the Brimar 5Z4GY is better.
 
I'm getting things together for a Rectifier shootout. As it stands now here is my favorites that I have listened to (first to last).
TAK274B, Brimar 5Z4GY, Mullard GZ32, Mullard GZ30, Fivre 5R4, Mullard GZ34.

 
I love the metal base GZ-34.  My favorite rectifier in the WA5LE.  I do not own the Tak 274, but I will at some point.
 
I rate as follows:  
1) Mullard GZ34 (Metal Base) 
2) EML 5U4G Mesh
3) UE 596
4) Mullard GZ34 (Black Base)
5) Mullard GZ32
6) CV378
7) Sofia Electric 274B 
 
I will note: These are all excellent tubes.  I see no fault in choosing any one of these over the other.
 
I still want to audition the WE 422 and 274, too.

 

[Badas]

That's very interesting. I've purchased some singles for lack of a source of matched pairs for some tubes and it's worked out fine. I don't really understand on a technical level what they're measuring (I've seen posts about it but it didn't commit to my memory), and why the measurements matter.

Basically they are measuring the amount of current flowing through the triodes. Triodes will handle different amounts. So they are getting tubes that are similar or close.

Kinda warning on picking up singles. Especially used. They have to be close. Jack came in the forums a while back and said that the Woo amps have auto bias circuits. However if they differ too much it will effect the quality. He suggested getting them close.

Thank you for this helpful information, this means that I can buy a single 6F8G tube to get a set of 6F8G tubes.

I was given a set but due to USPS poor handling of the package one of the tubes broke (picture below).

Throw that away immediately dude. Nasty stuff in old tubes like Mercury vapour. If I crack a tube its in the bin ASAP.

I love the metal base GZ-34.  My favorite rectifier in the WA5LE.  I do not own the Tak 274, but I will at some point.

I rate as follows:  
1) Mullard GZ34 (Metal Base) 
2) EML 5U4G Mesh
3) UE 596
4) Mullard GZ34 (Black Base)
5) Mullard GZ32
6) CV378
7) Sofia Electric 274B 

I will note: These are all excellent tubes.  I see no fault in choosing any one of these over the other.

I still want to audition the WE 422 and 274, too.

It's now coming to light that the Mullard GZ34 metal base is a waste of space in the WA22. I was talking to 3083joe who said it was not good either.

 

[jhljhl]

Basically they are measuring the amount of current flowing through the triodes. Triodes will handle different amounts. So they are getting tubes that are similar or close.

Kinda warning on picking up singles. Especially used. They have to be close. Jack came in the forums a while back and said that the Woo amps have auto bias circuits. However if they differ too much it will effect the quality. He suggested getting them close.
Throw that away immediately dude. Nasty stuff in old tubes like Mercury vapour. If I crack a tube its in the bin ASAP.
It's now coming to light that the Mullard GZ34 metal base is a waste of space in the WA22. I was talking to 3083joe who said it was not good either.

 
I liked the metal gz34 too with the wa22. I thought it was a good compliment - there is what feels like a little drop in power iirc but the wa22 lacks the dynamic power of the wa5le even through balanced xlr. I'm beginning to see what other people respond to as "dull" sounding but what I think is a holographic midrange. Go figure YMMV. But I definitely consider it in my 5 top rectifiers in the wa5le/wa22.
 
Overall I liked the wa22 it has a laid back wide sound stage with rich midrange but is somewhat flat and hallow as there is not enough depth and punch. Still it sounds really nice for classical and jazz. The we274 will give you more separation helping out the depth issue you have x,y but not enough z of the x,y,z axis.
 
The WA5 takes the WA22 and adds depth and power and richer midrange (maybe even too much? but I generally prefer a richer romantic sound even at sacrifice of detail as I listen primarily to classical and choral). The we 274 adds separation and imaging and is my preferred rectifier in the wa5le/wa22 but haven't tried the tak. My preference is WE274 >> WE422 > Metal gz34 = Cossar GZ37 > GEC U52

 

[leftside]

Try and get matched tubes in the WA22 - especially with the 6F8G.

 

[phase0]

Basically they are measuring the amount of current flowing through the triodes. Triodes will handle different amounts. So they are getting tubes that are similar or close.

Kinda warning on picking up singles. Especially used. They have to be close. Jack came in the forums a while back and said that the Woo amps have auto bias circuits. However if they differ too much it will effect the quality. He suggested getting them close.
 

 
Yea obviously I would get tested matched pairs whenever possible. Given the choice that's the only way I would go.
 
I couldn't find a matched pair of the TSRP 6F8G so I shopped some singles and eventually made a pair. There was a pair on eBay a week ago but I missed it because of some acct linking requirement I failed to meet. They went for just over $200. Desperate people and desperate times y'know Willing to risk the singles and so far I think it's working for me. If anyone has a pair of TSRP 6F8G or 6C8G they want to sell me I'd be interested, but so far haven't been able to hook that up.

 

[Porteroso]

 

  If the tubes are NOS, they will almost certainly test within 10% of each other, especially if they were made around the same time. I wouldn't worry about it in the slightest. Matched pairs are pretty overrated. I have never seen someone say "I put in a set of x tubes, and couldn't stand them. They obviously weren't matched." I've put in tubes, same manufacturer, but different construction, and thought they sounded great. It's all in the eye (ear) of the beholder, but especially for same tube, never used, you don't need to worry about it being tested or not. If you were to test your tubes, they would test as matched. And what is matched anyways. If a seller has a pair within 2%, they'll tell you that only tubes within 2% are truly matched. I've seen 2% listed as "super matched," I've seen 5% said to be the gold standard for matched, and 10% as well. And again, to date, I've never seen someone say they could tell the difference.

 
Thank you for this helpful information, this means that I can buy a single 6F8G tube to get a set of 6F8G tubes.
 
I was given a set but due to USPS poor handling of the package one of the tubes broke (picture below).
 

Yeah, that sucks. Just to be clear, from what I've seen, if you're using tubes of identical construction, with similar usages, they will sound fine. I don't think anyone recommends using a new tube with an almost dead tube, for example. And let's be real, I bet a lot of sellers will list a tube as NOS as long as it tests very strong or above. The tube might have 1000 hours on it, but if it tests well, they'll just stick the NOS label on it and try to charge more.
 
But yes, I had maybe 100 hours on a set of TS 6F8G, and broke one of them. I'm in the hunt for a replacement, and while it won't be as closely matched, I really doubt that it will make any difference in the sound. I hope you find a replacement too.

 

[thecrow]

In terms of improvement, would the order be DAC > headphones > tubes?  (keeping the amp the one constant)

+1

(edit) Recently upgraded DAC and it is like having a new system just like @Badas.

In terms of improvement, would the order be DAC > headphones > tubes?  (keeping the amp the one constant)

Controversial but probably.

DAC is often the last to upgraded tho. Often overlooked. I was guilty of that.

DAC improved my whole system. SS amp, Tube amp and massively on speakers.

+1

(edit) Recently upgraded DAC and it is like having a new system just like @Badas.

I too recently upgraded my dac. A major upgrade in $.

It definitely shouldn't be overlooked.

I had an arcam irdac which suited my Burson soloist very very well. Synergy was a major factor here. I did a bit of mixing and matching with this gear with similarly priced gear and there was no need to break these apart.

I don't think think there would have been a big change between the irdac (about $600) and other dacs under $1000. Just slight differences and matching.

It was like there was different level of dacs broken into defined price jumps. Eg dacs around $400/500 then around $1000 then up from there.

But when investing in upgrading an amp then I believe one should also considering upgrading the dac with it or keep a dac upgrade in mind.

Nothing wrong with just upgrading the amp and later coming back to upgrade the dac. It's probably more economical than partly upgrading both and then later partly upgrading them again.

Currently I have a dac (Metrum hex) that I feel is my end gear dac and the wa2 which will be upgraded if I ever can afford the upgrade to a more premium amp (and relevant tubes if I go that way).

I prefer having a more premium dac than amp. The dac gets all the detail and nature of the sound (for my natural sound) to my amp and then the amp AND headphones take care of the colour, richness, emphasis and all that stuff.

In a nutshell don't overlook the dac. It's just as important, for me, if not a little bit more than the amp.

Enough rambling..........

 

[abvolt]

I would absolutely agree the right dac makes a very big difference in sq..

 

[ymc226]

I too recently upgraded my dac. A major upgrade in $.

It definitely shouldn't be overlooked.

I had an arcam irdac which suited my Burson soloist very very well. Synergy was a major factor here. I did a bit of mixing and matching with this gear with similarly priced gear and there was no need to break these apart.

I don't think think there would have been a big change between the irdac (about $600) and other dacs under $1000. Just slight differences and matching.

It was like there was different level of dacs broken into defined price jumps. Eg dacs around $400/500 then around $1000 then up from there.

But when investing in upgrading an amp then I believe one should also considering upgrading the dac with it or keep a dac upgrade in mind.

Nothing wrong with just upgrading the amp and later coming back to upgrade the dac. It's probably more economical than partly upgrading both and then later partly upgrading them again.

Currently I have a dac (Metrum hex) that I feel is my end gear dac and the wa2 which will be upgraded if I ever can afford the upgrade to a more premium amp (and relevant tubes if I go that way).

I prefer having a more premium dac than amp. The dac gets all the detail and nature of the sound (for my natural sound) to my amp and then the amp AND headphones take care of the colour, richness, emphasis and all that stuff.

In a nutshell don't overlook the dac. It's just as important, for me, if not a little bit more than the amp.

Enough rambling..........

 
 

  I would absolutely agree the right dac makes a very big difference in sq..

On that thought, I'm thinking of upgrading my DAC for the WA5-LE.  After reading on this forum, there seems to be a consensus that the Schiit Yiggy is very good.  Does anyone with a Woo amp or even more specifically with a WA5/LE have experience on the Yiggy combination?  

 

[ymc226]

Just paid for adapters from Woo Audio:  6F8G to 6SN7 tube adapter
 
Will this adapter also work for the 6C8G tube?

 

[ken6217]

  Just paid for adapters from Woo Audio:  6F8G to 6SN7 tube adapter
 
Will this adapter also work for the 6C8G tube?

Yes

 

[artemart]

Throw that away immediately dude. Nasty stuff in old tubes like Mercury vapour. If I crack a tube its in the bin ASAP.

 
I have moved the tube into a box in the garage and I will figure out this weekend a safe way to dispose this tube.
 
I also did a expectation on the broken tube and it looks like the glass have broke inside of the tube and there are no cracks in outer shell. (Picture below that shows where inside the tube have broke)
 

 

[Badas]

   
I have moved the tube into a box in the garage and I will figure out this weekend a safe way to dispose this tube.
 
I also did a expectation on the broken tube and it looks like the glass have broke inside of the tube and there are no cracks in outer shell. (Picture below that shows where inside the tube have broke)
 

That can happen as part of manufacturing. I have a few like that and it doesn't effect the tubes performance.
 
Did the pictured tube get any type of shock? Like it was dropped? If not then it should be fine.

 

[jhljhl]

   
 

On that thought, I'm thinking of upgrading my DAC for the WA5-LE.  After reading on this forum, there seems to be a consensus that the Schiit Yiggy is very good.  Does anyone with a Woo amp or even more specifically with a WA5/LE have experience on the Yiggy combination?  

 
I'm interested in this combination as well. But the vega, exogal, ayre 9b-dsd are all excellent dacs with the wa5le v1 upgraded parts and more resolving I thought than the hugo chord (but chord was nice too). If you feel the wa5le is too warm the vega is a little more airy sounding dac.  If you have a stereo and 2 headamps it isn't easy to hook them all up together to one dac but wish I could keep both dacs. The yggy has 2 pair of single ended outs though which is good.