[macm75]

Think there is point to adding extra holes on the base of box for ventilation? You can see the existing holes on the base. For the top, I simply plan on taking a piece of plexiglass (or acrylic if I can ever find a piece cheap enough) and raising it above the top of box by a 1/4" or so using 4 spacers - lots of ventilation for top.

 

[digger945]

Are you related to Al?
That looks very nice.
Home Depot or Lowes will cut plexy to your size at no charge. The stuff aint cheap at those places but it is (almost) instant gratification. I have used one of those plexy knives from Ace hardware with so-so results. I think I should have scored the stuff some more before trying to break it.

 

[macm75]

Quote:

Originally Posted by digger945 /img/forum/go_quote.gif Are you related to Al?

So I glanced back at Al's amp and see a bit of what you mean. Although he used prettier wood. Actually, thanks for the reference because I also see Al did not drill holes to his base plate.

 

[ktm]

After scrounging local sources, I have soldered in everything I have here.
I just finished ordering all the other parts I need and ordered a Nabu case.
I guess I'll have to drill a lot of holes for airflow. The front will be a tough call
how to finish it out. Wood or metal? I have waited on the jack. At this point
I'm looking at salvaging a 6 pin Stax jack out of my srd-4, and plugging the center
pin. The 40's will become test cans. Time for some hybrid goodness to
join my collection. Maybe in the next month or so the other Stax amps will be
finding a new home.
Thanks again, Al, for hooking me up!

 

[macm75]

Quote:

Originally Posted by ktm /img/forum/go_quote.gif Wood or metal?

Do a search in this thread for Nabu and I believe you will find a recommendation by Al for exotic woods to cover your metal front panel. Wood is always better looking and more interesting than metal if you ask me.

Edit: Found it... http://www.head-fi.org/forums/6292717-post1963.html

 

[pabbi1]

Yeah, how can you beat something like this, or perhaps a better fit, or almost perfect size.

The greatest thing about the Nabu is that the plastic face doubles duty as a perfect drill template for a wood panel. 1/4" is really too thick for pots and such, but, Dremel cures all.

Now I do take offense to the notion that I'd use a domestic wood (other than to prove a point, but I do have some scrap English brown oak left over from my dart board, which would make an awesome case... if only I could conquer some form of corner jointery (dovetail, boxjoint, etc). Damnit, time to take a class.

So, any further listening impressions ya'll? Nick, the suspense is killing me...

Edit: If you can't find the jacks at Allied, Alex (APS) still has some Amphenol jacks, or did at last check.

 

[sergery]

What is the new source you are waiting on Al? The suspense is killing me too... I may just deal direct with Sennheiser in Germany if Customs doesn't turn over the goods soon.

 

[awpagan]

Quote:

Originally Posted by macm75 /img/forum/go_quote.gif It's officially alive!! Alex's amp saves them (although Alex's amp also kept me from completing my Gilmore "All-Triode" amp - should have a comparison soon). .

I now have the transistor version working now,been listening for about a day.
Well done Alex, very sweet sounding amp

Had the Gilmore triode for a while now, it sat in the background for a far while.
Female voices with instruments were fantastic on it but the lows/bass were always fluffy.
I,ve abandoned the Gilmore "All-Triode" amp now

Now to do the tube/Hybrid version.
Also waiting for a pot to run balanced, SE at present.
Stax Lambda low bis version, "very old"

 

[pabbi1]

Quote:

Originally Posted by sergery /img/forum/go_quote.gif What is the new source you are waiting on Al? The suspense is killing me too... I may just deal direct with Sennheiser in Germany if Customs doesn't turn over the goods soon.

Edit: Actually an Ayon CD-1... just didn't need any complications on Agon until the deal was completed. of course, it is not actually completed until it's actually sitting on the new jatoba plexi rack...

 

[macm75]

Quote:

Originally Posted by awpagan /img/forum/go_quote.gif Had the Gilmore triode for a while now, it sat in the background for a far while. Female voices with instruments were fantastic on it but the lows/bass were always fluffy. I,ve abandoned the Gilmore "All-Triode" amp now

This concerns me too - man a lot of time and effort went into it (luckily it was built with virtually all spare parts). In my above post I mentioned it ran for only an hour before I saw a bright flash on my back wall (PS issues). I hate to say it but I heard the same thing. Thought maybe it was the PS or the vitamin Q caps but it sounds like, based on your confirmation, maybe not.
I was on the beta 1 team and dropped out due to the All-Triode build. I had a lot of PS issues with it, lost confidence, and joined the beta 2 team. Looks like I made a good decision.

 

[FrankCooter]

Quote:

Originally Posted by pabbi1 /img/forum/go_quote.gif .. if only I could conquer some form of corner jointery (dovetail, boxjoint, etc). .

Try a spline miter. Use 1/8" ply for the splines. Cut the pieces a little larger than necessary. Make the angle on your saw a little more than 45 degees so the outside of the joints close up. Do small adjustment cuts if necessary. Use a canvas band clamp for assembly. Clean, attractive, easy, and plenty strong enough for an application like this. Al, I love your enthusiasm, but as an ex cabinet maker, I can't help but cringe a bit when I see ragged holes or raw screw heads in the middle of a piece of beautiful imported hardwood.

 

[pabbi1]

Quote:

Originally Posted by FrankCooter /img/forum/go_quote.gif Try a spline miter. Use 1/8" ply for the splines. Cut the pieces a little larger than necessary. Make the angle on your saw a little more than 45 degees so the outside of the joints close up. Do small adjustment cuts if necessary. Use a canvas band clamp for assembly. Clean, attractive, easy, and plenty strong enough for an application like this. Al, I love your enthusiasm, but as an ex cabinet maker, I can't help but cringe a bit when I see ragged holes or raw screw heads in the middle of a piece of beautiful imported hardwood.

Yeah, that bugs me too, but it was necessary due to the design goal... I need a removeable front plate. And agree, I need some schooling...

I thought about doing the 45 degree and biscuit thing, but there is just magic with dovetails and box joints. And, my FIL/BIL are both cabinet makers, doing far more than cringing about my "mixed media".

You do bring up an excellent point - this amp needs a real case design...

 

[BoilermakerFan]

Quote:

Originally Posted by pabbi1 /img/forum/go_quote.gif Yeah, that bugs me too, but it was necessary due to the design goal... I need a removeable front plate. And agree, I need some schooling... I thought about doing the 45 degree and biscuit thing, but there is just magic with dovetails and box joints. And, my FIL/BIL are both cabinet makers, doing far more than cringing about my "mixed media". You do bring up an excellent point - this amp needs a real case design...

Drill the plugs from the front panel material just a little past each end, then use a T-Nut. The plug will match the wood about as good as it gets. Then you can screw on the faceplate from inside the amp. Brass inserts work too, but you have t o use thicker wood then.

The other option is to use a complementary colored wood and make it a design feature, but I like to do square plugs for that look so it doesn't look like a cheap ass dowel rod plug. Custom cut tear drop plugs look cool too. Lots of options for plugs over T-nuts. Just use sharp chisels and X-Acto blades.

 

[M3NTAL]

What kind of bias voltage are you guys using for the Stax SR-007 and Koss 950?

 

[ericj]

Quote:

Originally Posted by M3NTAL /img/forum/go_quote.gif What kind of bias voltage are you guys using for the Stax SR-007 and Koss 950?

No SR-007 here but Stax pro bias is 580v and Koss 950 bias is 600v - this isn't that big of a difference. Just set it to 580v.