[mandrake50]

If you can or know someone who can check the electrolytic caps , especially in the power supply section. I have had amps that have done the same thing and found this is a good place to start. Recapping it shouldn't be too difficult... Though I admit that I haven't looked at mine with this in mind.

 

[Madman242]

Hi,

Unfortunately I think that my Gustard H10 is slowly dying,

For the past few weeks I have been hearing pop and crackling sounds while listening to music / or even if the amp is just on and not getting any signal.

I switched dacs and rca cables and confirmed it's still happening. When I connected my LCD X's to my av receiver / my phone it didn't occur (thank god it's not my headphones).

I had it for around 3 years but I expected more from it.

Does anyone know if there is any way to fix this?

I would appreciate some good alternatives for the H10 to use with the LCD , and possibly the abyss / focal utopia / lcd 4 in the future - I might upgrade in a year and I would like to have a versatile amp.

A couple others in this thread have reported a similar problem. If I recall, in each case it was just a matter of replacing a transistor or two.

 

[mandrake50]

checking out pervious posts is always a very good idea. No question. If I was in digging around in there I would be tempted to upgrade the electrolytics anyway...

 

[Feilong4]

Not sure if anyone is interested but I'm selling my unit. I have the listing here: https://www.head-fi.org/threads/gustard-h10-amp.913846/

 

[69VanNuys]

You would go from your computer's USB output into the U12, then from U12 you can go optical or digital coax into your DAC (The ifi nano iDSD?) and then into your H10 amp. However, if you like the ifi stuff you could look at the iPurifier if you feel like you are having trouble between your computer and your iDSD. If you are in fact using the iDSD then the purifier or Schiit Wyrd would be your only choice since you only have USB input on your DAC anyways. You want, possibly, a USB purifier and not a USB to SPDIF converter.

You may also want to try different USB ports on your computer if you have more than one, they are not all equal, and you may want to try a different USB cable as you may have a termination defect causing noise or problems of some sort.

Are you sure jitter or USB noise is the problem you are experiencing?

Interesting advice to solve for the noise natra084 is having. I have been looking for a thread talking about line noise because I have similar noise in my set up (Directstream DAC output via RCA to Dragon Inspire Tube amp to Focal Clea via 4-pin xlr). With no music playing, I hear constant noise in the headphones unless the gain on the tube amp is all the way down. If I remove the RCA cable from the input on the tube amp, the noise goes away. Any thoughts Greggo or others? Thanks, D

 

[Jimmyblues1959]

Hi,

I have the Gustard H10 on daily for about 6 hours and it does not seem to get very hot at all...

Compared to other Class A amplifiers, it actually runs quite cool.

Hope this helps!

--Jeff

Recently purchased an H10 with stock opamps and it runs cool. I was concerned about some other H10 owners
describing how hot their H10s ran. And some with Burson upgraded opamps that were burning up. It would
appear that some of the upgraded opamps were the problem, and that the stock opamps run fine.

The H10 really does sound quite good.

 

[Jimmyblues1959]

I brought my Gustard X10/DAC X12 stack to the San Francisco HeadFi meet last Saturday. Though looking rather outclassed among the summit-fi gear, the combination driving HE-500 cans drew complimentary reviews from those that tried it. I have the full Burson V5 upgrade in my X10, and at the end of the show DecentLevi put it up against a few other amps for side-by-side comparisons. He thought the X10 sounded better than the Cavalli Liquid Carbon that was there (he mentioned it was a discontinued version, though), but that it was edged out by his 6-tube configured Feliks Elise, which he felt was more revealing of detail.

I bought a Gustard H10 recently and really like it. Have been reading through the H10 thread and saw a post with a
photo of an H10 with a Supreme Sound logo on the faceplate. Was this a special order H10? Or an aftermarket
modification?

 

[Jimmyblues1959]

Hi,

I have the Gustard H10 on daily for about 6 hours and it does not seem to get very hot at all...

Compared to other Class A amplifiers, it actually runs quite cool.

Hope this helps!

--Jeff

Same here. My H10 runs cool. In think it's the aftermarket op amps that force the H10 to run hot.

 

[DBX1]

Hello all. I just acquired a Gustard H10 Headphone Amp. It sounds fantastic. To get the most out of it - I purchased the Burson V6 Classic Opamps. When the V6 Opamps are in place, I get no sound output. The LEDs light up. However, when I turn up the volume from the Gustard, the LEDs dim. This does not happen when the stock opamps in place. When I place the stock OpAmps back in place, no problems with getting sound.

All DIP switches are set down - or in the "off" position".

Any ideas anyone ?

Thanks.

 

[Jimmyblues1959]

Hello all. I just acquired a Gustard H10 Headphone Amp. It sounds fantastic. To get the most out of it - I purchased the Burson V6 Classic Opamps. When the V6 Opamps are in place, I get no sound output. The LEDs light up. However, when I turn up the volume from the Gustard, the LEDs dim. This does not happen when the stock opamps in place. When I place the stock OpAmps back in place, no problems with getting sound.

All DIP switches are set down - or in the "off" position".

Any ideas anyone ?

Thanks.

Just my opinion, but it seems like there have been several H10 owners who have had problems with certain Burson aftermarket opamps. Are you sure that these opamps are installed correctly? I have heard of people installing them backwards.

I know that the V5 opamps were actually running so hot that they were burning up in the H10. Burson offered other opamps
to replace the V5 including the V5i and V6. Not sure if they remedied the problem with the V5. I have a stock H10 and am
very pleased with its performance. It also runs very cool. Hope this has been of some help and best of luck!

 

[DBX1]

Yes, I've been careful not to install the op-amps backwards. But it just does not want to output anything with the Bursons installed. I also read about people having issues with the V5 opamps.

Maybe I will just have to return the Burson OpAmps for a refund. Yeah, the H10 does sound great !!!

 

[DBX1]

Is there any chance that anyone is using heatsinks on the transistors ? I heard those can get hot too.

 

[hpamdr]

Yes, I've been careful not to install the op-amps backwards. But it just does not want to output anything with the Bursons installed. I also read about people having issues with the V5 opamps.

Maybe I will just have to return the Burson OpAmps for a refund. Yeah, the H10 does sound great !!!

I've installed V5 opamps and even if it worked for 2 months one day v5 burned and damaged the pcb... I was never able to repair the amp !

 

[Remusz911]

I join the club today.

Google Album

It has 4 Burson V5i opas, bought it used from Denmark, for 1900 DKR.

The sound is very good, with the HD800S, the bass became tighter and punchier, the soundstage has expanded a bit, and details have improved a bit.

The DAC is Grace Design SDAC from Drop.

 

[Jimmyblues1959]

I join the club today.

Google Album

It has 4 Burson V5i opas, bought it used from Denmark, for 1900 DKR.

The sound is very good, with the HD800S, the bass became tighter and punchier, the soundstage has expanded a bit, and details have improved a bit.

The DAC is Grace Design SDAC from Drop.

Congratulations! The H10 puts out plenty of current and voltage to easily drive the HD800S. It should be an excellent pairing.
Just make sure that the op amps don't overheat. Best of luck