How-to ATH-AD900x Detachable Cable Mod (ATH-ADXXXx) (and what NOT to do)
Oct 7, 2017 at 11:28 PM Post #16 of 48
The socket would be too large, unless you find one with a diameter of 8mm (which would be surprising) which is the max width for a socket to be installed. So as an other comment pointed it out, you can always do a "piggy-tail" mod to use the headphones with a mini-xlr.
 
Oct 8, 2017 at 12:55 AM Post #17 of 48
The socket would be too large, unless you find one with a diameter of 8mm (which would be surprising) which is the max width for a socket to be installed. So as an other comment pointed it out, you can always do a "piggy-tail" mod to use the headphones with a mini-xlr.

Are you talking about the existing hole? I was thinking it would not fit. But, If I made the hole larger would be too large inside the cup?
 
Oct 8, 2017 at 8:04 AM Post #18 of 48
Are you talking about the existing hole? I was thinking it would not fit. But, If I made the hole larger would be too large inside the cup?
No about the max width you can create, because anything larger would go through the entire width of the plastic ring.
 
May 3, 2018 at 10:52 AM Post #19 of 48
Thank you for your instructions!

I did the mod yesterday and have some problems now which I can't really associate with anything.

After the mod I made some Stereotests with the following findings:

- Sound on Central -> Sound on Central
- Sound on Left -> Sound same as for Central
- Sound on Right -> Lower Volume sound but just on the right

Can maybe someone pinpoint my problem?
 
May 3, 2018 at 10:26 PM Post #20 of 48
I like doing these how-to when I mod something like an headphone, so here's another one!

Advice: If you plan to do this mod, read completely this guide in order to don't make the same mistakes as me. Doing a detachable cable mod an ATH-ADXXXx revealed to be more complicate than the usual detachable cable mod as you will see below.

Disclaimer: I'm not reponsible for any damage done to your unit. Do it at your own risk.


The audio jack I chose:

IMPORTANT POINTS TO NOTE:
- Wire the wires in the right way




On the audio jack: Gold: L+ Short silver: R+ Long silver: LR-

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

1. Remove the pad on the left side and remove the 4 screws


2. Remove the cup and the grill (and take notes on the way you remove the grill, because when you will be reassembling it will be usefull)


3. Remove the 3 screws holding in place the silver cover (and maybe clean a little bit the mess in your phones :wink: ) At the end the cover will be hold by clips. Just push them and the cover will come out.



4. Remove the rubber thingy of the cup. Don't force too much, just pull it to the side, wiggle and it will come out. (Also, you can already cut the cable by the outside, I didn't because I didn't know the wiring inside so I keep it in order to figure out the L+ and R+ if it was necessary. It reveals to be totally stupid afterward as with simple logic I've could have figure out the wiring without problem)


5. Cut the wire if you've not done it already. (And you will discover why this cable is so stiff. Look at all this sheat for these 3 small wires inside!)



6. Test fit you're audio jack. Here you can see there is a little gap in the first picture between the plastic and the audio jack. You need to push the audio jack and hold it in place during you screw it in order to hold it in place. Also, when you will test fit with the driver plate, you will discover it doesn't fit. You will have to lime the driver plate where there is this round shape so it's all the way across this section of the plate. Take your time with the filing, you don't want to do any cosmetic damages outside the filing area if possible.





7. Now here is where I began a serie of mistakes. So be aware of what I did. At first I wanted to keep the original wires, but removing this huge sheat was difficult. My wire stripper didn't even cut it for the job (lame word joke), so I open the sheat with an exacto and damage the wires at the same time unfortunately, making them shorter in usable length.



8. I solder it. Test the audio out (always do that to be sure it works). Then when I test fit, the red cable reveal to be really on the short side (I resolder it many times also). At the end I had to use other wires. You will see later.





9. Also I hot glue the audio jack, thing I do usually to give more rigidity to the audio jack to be extra sure it doesn't move. DON'T DO THAT. Later you will find out that it get it in the way when you reassemble everything. (and I did it in two different ways)



10. When you will test fit, you will discover that the silver cover doesn't fit. You will need to fill to opening where was passing the previous cable. I ended up having a bigger hole than depicted on the second picture (in order to be able to reclose the cans with the wires and the audio jack)




11. I discovered that I needed to change the wire as the original ones were too short. Because when you reassemble the cans, you need to reinstall the silver cover first, but then let the driver plate hang out outside, install the grill (as depicted in the fourth picture), and then close the driver plate. This requires that you have some length of cable in order to hang out the driver plate outside. It's why that at step #2 of this guide, you need to carefully look at how you disassemble it in order to be able to reassemble it. In these pictures I used first the same purple cable as use for my two DIY cables, but first I cut them at 5cm of length, too long, and they were too stiff for this use case so I was not able to reclose the cans. At the end, I salvage the wires inside the AKG K553 cable which were small and flexible enough and it cut them at a length of 4cm this time in order to be able to reclose the cans. (but I didn't take any pictures of that unfortunately)(also the solder job for these last wires were way better done than depicted in the pictures here)





12. Finally, not without some hassles when reclosing, you will be able to reclose the cans and screw down the 4 screws. And voila your ATH-AD900x without this stiff cable. ^^




Is that a regular 3.5 mm RCA?
I find them unreliable .
I have seen mini gold coax screw-ons that is where I am headed.
Well I use kimber TC4 too so I need rugged
 
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Jun 3, 2018 at 10:18 AM Post #21 of 48
Thank you for your instructions!

I did the mod yesterday and have some problems now which I can't really associate with anything.

After the mod I made some Stereotests with the following findings:

- Sound on Central -> Sound on Central
- Sound on Left -> Sound same as for Central
- Sound on Right -> Lower Volume sound but just on the right

Can maybe someone pinpoint my problem?
I had a similar issue when i did this mod to my HD500X. It was caused by the left and right channels being wired up backwards, but it can also be caused if there is a bridge of solder between the wires or if the wires are touching. Hope this helps.
 
Jul 16, 2018 at 11:15 PM Post #22 of 48
thank you for the guide! i just finished the mod with the ad900x. it actually took me a few times to get the soldering done right and then dealing with the coated wires i extracted from the the original cable. it was a nightmare! especially when i tried inserting the connector into the chrome plastic cover, the cables would touch and ruined the balance between the drivers. anyways, i removed the soldered cables, cut a piece of some broken earbuds cable i had and used that wire from there...i ended up routing the cables around the chrome cover (broke a side of the chrome cover) and reinserting the connector into the chrome plastic cover was a lot more easier.
it wasn't that much of a hassle beside learning to solder properly as i never soldered before. i also ended up shorting the length of the original cable and installing a 3.5mm male to the end i shorten. even though, the cable is still unmanageable, its straight garbage. i really wish audio technica comes up with revision of this headphones with a detachable cable, regular headband and perhaps smaller earcups. all i gotta say is thank you for the guide, and screw you audio technica for the cable, other than that the headphones are great.

IMG_2764.JPG IMG_2765.JPG IMG_2767.JPG IMG_2768.JPG
 
Sep 23, 2018 at 1:43 PM Post #23 of 48
The miniature phone plug is just about the worst connector in use today. It's bad enough that there's one on your headphones. I mitigate that with a solid-metal 1/8" to 1/4" adapter.

But to put yet another miniature phone plug on the phones as a detachable connector? Bollocks!
 
Sep 26, 2018 at 3:56 AM Post #24 of 48
The miniature phone plug is just about the worst connector in use today. It's bad enough that there's one on your headphones. I mitigate that with a solid-metal 1/8" to 1/4" adapter.

But to put yet another miniature phone plug on the phones as a detachable connector? Bollocks!
What would you suggest then? i'm thinking a 1/4" piggy tail method mod would be the best thing, considering the small amount of space to work with.

EDIT: i do agree with you that the 1/8" connector is crap, especially given the fact the jacks used for this mod and a cable have failed on me multiple times...
 
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Jan 1, 2020 at 3:53 PM Post #28 of 48
Thanks for this how-to. About 3 months ago My dog ran out of my computer room while tangled up in my headphone wire, causing it to pull my DAC off of my computer desk and bending the 3.5mm male audio jack. Since then I only had audio out of one channel even after bending it back.

Last night my girlfriend and I had a nice quiet NYE modding my AD900X's. This was her first electronics project and now she is like "what can wee solder next"? haha.
Anyway, I now have full use of my favorite gaming headphones thanks to this great post.

Cheers!
Kenflow

LMHD6bJ

0Gq330x
 
Jul 28, 2020 at 12:55 PM Post #29 of 48
Hi all,
I know I'm digging up an old thread here, but wondering what would be the best connector/cable combination for this mod? I'm doing this with some ATH-AD500X due to the weird curly/excessively long cable. Anything that doesn't hold shape/lays flat would be nice but I really don't know of any cables to go with. Is the MULTICOMP MJ-074N the best connector at this point or has something better come along?
Just trying to tap into some old knowledge and experience here. :)
Also relevant to mention they have not improved the cable situation at all for those considering these headphones in the future.

Thanks in advance.
 
Jul 29, 2020 at 10:44 PM Post #30 of 48
Hi,
For the connector, I would maybe recommend an insulated 3.5mm jack connector like this one or this one. I've seen them lately and they might be better for the job than a run of the mill jack connector, but they might be harder to come by. To be tested.

However, an issue I've encountered with the mod was lateral forces which breaks the connector as jacks are longs and when the headphone is worn, they can be disturbed which exert pressure inside the connectors.

An idea that I got by watching this video (timestamp), because of the way he holds the drivers in the video, is to stick the connector in the silver piece so the drivers, silver piece and connector acts as a single piece. That way it might be easier that way to reassemble the headphones. And the connector will be recessed, which will limit to the use of an audio cable with a narrow jack, but might right reduce the stress on the connector that way. Would need to be tested.

Personally, because of the issue of lateral torque, I reverted back to a fix cable at some point. But lately I converted back my ATH-AD900x to detachable cable with MMCX as a way to go around the lateral torque issue (and because I wanted a cable for each driver for no reason). Here's the few pictures, not helpful I've taken of the operation.



IMG_20200723_131219.jpgIMG_20200723_131536.jpgIMG_20200723_131601.jpgIMG_20200723_133138.jpgIMG_20200724_130859.jpg
 
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