[chinsettawong]

I have tried rubbing the graphite on the film before. It’s OK. But after a while the resistivity gets much higher and eventually fails. I think the graphite loses its adhesion after some vibrations of the diaphragms. Try using the car detailing product containing graphene. It’s very easy to coat on the diaphragms and it adheres to the diaphragms very well.

 

[Lovediy]

I have tried rubbing the graphite on the film before. It’s OK. But after a while the resistivity gets much higher and eventually fails. I think the graphite loses its adhesion after some vibrations of the diaphragms. Try using the car detailing product containing graphene. It’s very easy to coat on the diaphragms and it adheres to the diaphragms very well.

I see you mentioned spray coating graphene. However, what I am wondering is how to achieve uniformity in dosage and uniformity in coverage?

 

[chinsettawong]

It’s best that you read through the thread. You’ll learn a lot. Anyway, I normally spray the coating on a piece of lint free cloth and simply wipe on the diaphragm. I wipe it a few times to make sure that I get an even coating everywhere . After it’s dry I gently buff the surface to get an even transparency of the whole surface.

 

[maxip0o]

Howdy y'all! I'm Max, and I am new to the world of audio. Started watching Crinacle on YouTube and it was downhill from there. Anyways, I somehow found my way here and like most was inspired to try my luck as well. I made a pair of HD600 knockoffs (with borrowed parts, seen below). In essence they are FR4 .5mm PCB spacers and 2mm stators. Active diaphragm area of 90x66mm with 3um Mylar. Air gap of .5mm. Stators have both 2mm and 1mm holes drilled, ended up using and engraver to isolate only the inner perforated area to increase sensitivity as they ended up very quiet originally. I was a little greedy trying to maximize the diaphragm area and suffered immensely gluing the Mylar to the spacers as they are only 5mm wide... area for wires to fit into were also overlooked... but ill say this was a successful "functioning" prototype.

Regretting lack of space

used a piece of scrap wood to compress the driver and hold the awesome earpads from Brainwavz. They just have a slight interference fit and due to woodgrain stay together quite nicely. And yes those are cardboard spacers you see in there. Messed up on the depth the compression ring. That's what CAD(cardboard aided design) is for right? Its all on the user side of the dust screen so all should be well, and temporary.

I used a Stax L500 cord as I didn't feel savvy enough to fabricate my own.

I saw someone here using and embroidery ring for a Mylar tensioner and gave that a shot. If interested in this method, avoid the temptation to cheap out on the rings. I could only just keep the wrinkles out by slowly and gently pulling the excess material on the outside of the ring. Any attempt at stretching would result in the excess material on the outside to tear then I would loose all tension in the ring. I will be looking into other methods. Glue used was UHU POR.

I attempted to make some crumpled dust screen but they ended up sounding like plastic bags crinkling in my ear as I did not tension them enough. Further experimentation required. For the coating material, I used Staticide 2003:https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004TMTNBC?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1. I cannot speak for longevity as they have only been together for 3 days as of this post but I will update- **UPDATE** Staticide did not work out. Ended up using Graphene based auto detail spray. Huge improvement!

Now onto how they sound. As I have only the HD600's to compare to. I can confidently say these are my new favorite. They still need a lot work (and their own headband) to be considered complete but I'm absolutely blown away by the clarity, sound stage, and bass these things throw out. Even at higher Db, I can barely make out any distortion. Consider me hooked! I can see why people get spend-y with this driver type. But as a budget prohibited person, the DIY scene is my jam. This was a very enjoyable project and I am grateful to everyone here who went through much trial and error and sharing their results to better the community. I would love to be part of that as well, so I will try to chime in as much as I can. Cheers! - Max

 

[Lovediy]

Howdy y'all! I'm Max, and I am new to the world of audio. Started watching Crinacle on YouTube and it was downhill from there. Anyways, I somehow found my way here and like most was inspired to try my luck as well. I made a pair of HD600 knockoffs (with borrowed parts, seen below). In essence they are FR4 .5mm PCB spacers and 2mm stators. Active diaphragm area of 90x66mm with 3um Mylar. Air gap of .5mm. Stators have both 2mm and 1mm holes drilled, ended up using and engraver to isolate only the inner perforated area to increase sensitivity as they ended up very quiet originally. I was a little greedy trying to maximize the diaphragm area and suffered immensely gluing the Mylar to the spacers as they are only 5mm wide... area for wires to fit into were also overlooked... but ill say this was a successful "functioning" prototype.

Regretting lack of space

used a piece of scrap wood to compress the driver and hold the awesome earpads from Brainwavz. They just have a slight interference fit and due to woodgrain stay together quite nicely. And yes those are cardboard spacers you see in there. Messed up on the depth the compression ring. That's what CAD(cardboard aided design) is for right? Its all on the user side of the dust screen so all should be well, and temporary.

I used a Stax L500 cord as I didn't feel savvy enough to fabricate my own.

I saw someone here using and embroidery ring for a Mylar tensioner and gave that a shot. If interested in this method, avoid the temptation to cheap out on the rings. I could only just keep the wrinkles out by slowly and gently pulling the excess material on the outside of the ring. Any attempt at stretching would result in the excess material on the outside to tear then I would loose all tension in the ring. I will be looking into other methods. Glue used was UHU POR.

I attempted to make some crumpled dust screen but they ended up sounding like plastic bags crinkling in my ear as I did not tension them enough. Further experimentation required. For the coating material, I used Staticide 2003:https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004TMTNBC?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1. I cannot speak for longevity as they have only been together for 3 days as of this post but I will update.

Now onto how they sound. As I have only the HD600's to compare to. I can confidently say these are my new favorite. They still need a lot work (and their own headband) to be considered complete but I'm absolutely blown away by the clarity, sound stage, and bass these things throw out. Even at higher Db, I can barely make out any distortion. Consider me hooked! I can see why people get spend-y with this driver type. But as a budget prohibited person, the DIY scene is my jam. This was a very enjoyable project and I am grateful to everyone here who went through much trial and error and sharing their results to better the community. I would love to be part of that as well, so I will try to chime in as much as I can. Cheers! - Max

I'm wondering what amplifier you use to connect to the headphones? and why don't you use a mesh with small mesh to prevent dust instead of using crumpled film?

 

[maxip0o]

Ah sorry if I didn't mention it. I'm using a Topping EHA5 amp. It was 400 usd and had decent reviews. As for the dust screen I ended up scrapping the crumpled film and used a tensioned mylar spacer, same as what I used for the diaphragm. I hadn't thought to use mesh.

 

[maxip0o]

I will definitely look into it as I plan to do all sorts of experimentation. Only prohibiting factor I have here in Oregon is humidity so I might have some noise if i dont seal up the driver tightly.

 

[anto22]

great job,super...

 

[chinsettawong]

Howdy y'all! I'm Max, and I am new to the world of audio. Started watching Crinacle on YouTube and it was downhill from there. Anyways, I somehow found my way here and like most was inspired to try my luck as well. I made a pair of HD600 knockoffs (with borrowed parts, seen below). In essence they are FR4 .5mm PCB spacers and 2mm stators. Active diaphragm area of 90x66mm with 3um Mylar. Air gap of .5mm. Stators have both 2mm and 1mm holes drilled, ended up using and engraver to isolate only the inner perforated area to increase sensitivity as they ended up very quiet originally. I was a little greedy trying to maximize the diaphragm area and suffered immensely gluing the Mylar to the spacers as they are only 5mm wide... area for wires to fit into were also overlooked... but ill say this was a successful "functioning" prototype.

Regretting lack of space

used a piece of scrap wood to compress the driver and hold the awesome earpads from Brainwavz. They just have a slight interference fit and due to woodgrain stay together quite nicely. And yes those are cardboard spacers you see in there. Messed up on the depth the compression ring. That's what CAD(cardboard aided design) is for right? Its all on the user side of the dust screen so all should be well, and temporary.

I used a Stax L500 cord as I didn't feel savvy enough to fabricate my own.

I saw someone here using and embroidery ring for a Mylar tensioner and gave that a shot. If interested in this method, avoid the temptation to cheap out on the rings. I could only just keep the wrinkles out by slowly and gently pulling the excess material on the outside of the ring. Any attempt at stretching would result in the excess material on the outside to tear then I would loose all tension in the ring. I will be looking into other methods. Glue used was UHU POR.

I attempted to make some crumpled dust screen but they ended up sounding like plastic bags crinkling in my ear as I did not tension them enough. Further experimentation required. For the coating material, I used Staticide 2003:https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004TMTNBC?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1. I cannot speak for longevity as they have only been together for 3 days as of this post but I will update.

Now onto how they sound. As I have only the HD600's to compare to. I can confidently say these are my new favorite. They still need a lot work (and their own headband) to be considered complete but I'm absolutely blown away by the clarity, sound stage, and bass these things throw out. Even at higher Db, I can barely make out any distortion. Consider me hooked! I can see why people get spend-y with this driver type. But as a budget prohibited person, the DIY scene is my jam. This was a very enjoyable project and I am grateful to everyone here who went through much trial and error and sharing their results to better the community. I would love to be part of that as well, so I will try to chime in as much as I can. Cheers! - Max

Your headphones look really nice! Please share with us more when there is any progress.

I want to mention something about the dust covers. It's fine that you have a dust cover that is as tight on the surface as the diaphragm if you only put it on only one side of the driver. Putting tight surface dust covers on both sides and your driver will not have enough air inside to move when you play a song which has a lot of bass. You'll end up with less bass.

 

[maxip0o]

Thank you very much for the compliment! I just now removed the outward facing dust covers and gave it another try. With that my volume issue is solved! I had thought the humidity here would cause issues, but sitting at 80% there is no problems. I ordered some mesh screen after Lovediy suggested it and will be giving that a go. Trying out the inner tube method for stretching Mylar on a separate set of diaphragms. working out much better than my last attempt.

 

[lkos98]

Howdy y'all! I'm Max, and I am new to the world of audio. Started watching Crinacle on YouTube and it was downhill from there. Anyways, I somehow found my way here and like most was inspired to try my luck as well. I made a pair of HD600 knockoffs (with borrowed parts, seen below). In essence they are FR4 .5mm PCB spacers and 2mm stators. Active diaphragm area of 90x66mm with 3um Mylar. Air gap of .5mm. Stators have both 2mm and 1mm holes drilled, ended up using and engraver to isolate only the inner perforated area to increase sensitivity as they ended up very quiet originally. I was a little greedy trying to maximize the diaphragm area and suffered immensely gluing the Mylar to the spacers as they are only 5mm wide... area for wires to fit into were also overlooked... but ill say this was a successful "functioning" prototype.

Regretting lack of space

used a piece of scrap wood to compress the driver and hold the awesome earpads from Brainwavz. They just have a slight interference fit and due to woodgrain stay together quite nicely. And yes those are cardboard spacers you see in there. Messed up on the depth the compression ring. That's what CAD(cardboard aided design) is for right? Its all on the user side of the dust screen so all should be well, and temporary.

I used a Stax L500 cord as I didn't feel savvy enough to fabricate my own.

I saw someone here using and embroidery ring for a Mylar tensioner and gave that a shot. If interested in this method, avoid the temptation to cheap out on the rings. I could only just keep the wrinkles out by slowly and gently pulling the excess material on the outside of the ring. Any attempt at stretching would result in the excess material on the outside to tear then I would loose all tension in the ring. I will be looking into other methods. Glue used was UHU POR.

I attempted to make some crumpled dust screen but they ended up sounding like plastic bags crinkling in my ear as I did not tension them enough. Further experimentation required. For the coating material, I used Staticide 2003:https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004TMTNBC?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1. I cannot speak for longevity as they have only been together for 3 days as of this post but I will update.

Now onto how they sound. As I have only the HD600's to compare to. I can confidently say these are my new favorite. They still need a lot work (and their own headband) to be considered complete but I'm absolutely blown away by the clarity, sound stage, and bass these things throw out. Even at higher Db, I can barely make out any distortion. Consider me hooked! I can see why people get spend-y with this driver type. But as a budget prohibited person, the DIY scene is my jam. This was a very enjoyable project and I am grateful to everyone here who went through much trial and error and sharing their results to better the community. I would love to be part of that as well, so I will try to chime in as much as I can. Cheers! - Max

Nice. I like how you did the perforation with big and small holes, good idea.
As for the embroiling ring, I have made such a ring DIY, but I have 2 inner rings on top of each other. The mylar is covering the top one and is fixed between lower inner/outer rings. Once it's fixed I can move the upper inner ring up with screws that go through the lower inner ring and in such way I can adjust the tension. Fairly said it doesn't work very well, because it's difficult to achieve even stretching on the whole surface. I think inner bicycle tube is better, but couldn't find small enough.

 

[maxip0o]

Nice. I like how you did the perforation with big and small holes, good idea.
As for the embroiling ring, I have made such a ring DIY, but I have 2 inner rings on top of each other. The mylar is covering the top one and is fixed between lower inner/outer rings. Once it's fixed I can move the upper inner ring up with screws that go through the lower inner ring and in such way I can adjust the tension. Fairly said it doesn't work very well, because it's difficult to achieve even stretching on the whole surface. I think inner bicycle tube is better, but couldn't find small enough.

Thanks, I was attempting to see if the different sized holes effected transparency. Well... I have no measuring equipment so, still unknown. For the inner tube, I found a ride on lawn mower tube worked really well. It was only $4 USD as well. The rubber is thicker and it didn't really seem to need any frame. I taped from one side to the other as the tape didn't stick to the rubber well even after some de-greasing to get the rubber release agent off. Twisted the tape to allow for easier inflation. example below:

 

[maxip0o]

Another quick update. Instead of chemically etching the excess copper off of the PCB, I Used an engraving V bit and ran a pass around the perforated area of the stator and made a small trace to reduce the conductive area and keep the desired thickness. Example below still required some trimming.

 

[chinsettawong]

Thanks, I was attempting to see if the different sized holes effected transparency. Well... I have no measuring equipment so, still unknown. For the inner tube, I found a ride on lawn mower tube worked really well. It was only $4 USD as well. The rubber is thicker and it didn't really seem to need any frame. I taped from one side to the other as the tape didn't stick to the rubber well even after some de-greasing to get the rubber release agent off. Twisted the tape to allow for easier inflation. example below:

That should work! Thanks for sharing.

 

[lkos98]

Another quick update. Instead of chemically etching the excess copper off of the PCB, I Used an engraving V bit and ran a pass around the perforated area of the stator and made a small trace to reduce the conductive area and keep the desired thickness. Example below still required some trimming.

V-bit is ok for small track to track clearances and since we are dealing with high voltages, it's better to use >1mm flat milling bit, so you can have 0.05 - 0.08 mm deep groove (just to remove the copper) at least 1mm wide. With V-bit you have to go very deep and it may compromise the strength of the FR4. I use 1.2 - 1.4mm flat bit and depth of about 0.08mm. Of course you can do few passes with V-bit, but it's time consuming and wearing the bit.