[krude]

In regards to "nasties" only solid state and a much older Audio Note that i was probably too young to appreciate. Almost all of my solid state amps up to £3k have had switching noise. The Topping Preamp i had was so noisy on switching it blew my Susvaras .. TWICE. For just changing the XLR mode to RCA mode. Unreal hey? Yet true.

My Audio Note is noisy a bit in comparison, but it more than makes up for it with how it sounds HA300MK2 sounds great as well ... more conventional, but with zero noise and awesome quality of life

 

[krude]

I'm asked from time to time about EML XLS ... so I rolled to it recently.

Using stock rectifiers, quad of KenRad 7193 and EML XLS 300B.

EML have more treble than Western Electrics for example, sound more reference, but have strong and tight (tighter than WE and as strong) bass.

Its a very good, very solid sound. Great detail, speed, dynamics, tightness. All of it sounding natural with relatively sharp imaging and knock out low end.

 

[trollbearpig]

In regards to using Deyans adapter, the 'G' grid wire is attached to the terminal which is always closest to the center of the tube yes?

 

[bigjako]

I am liking your comment because the blue / red grid / plate thing is stumping me at the moment... following the comments and pics for sure! Here's how Deyan described it to me:

"Blue is for the control grid, red is for the plate. In the case of 6S8S the tube should line up so that the wires don't cross each other. The wires are longer to accommodate crossing as there are other tubes with the caps reversed. Best solution is to look inside the tube and see where each cap is connected, you only need to locate the plate and the grid will become obvious."

I've also run into an issue where my adapters, if I were to jam them in, would knock into the WE 300B tubes, so I think I have to get specific adapters for the HA-300B now.

 

[jonchard]

I am liking your comment because the blue / red grid / plate thing is stumping me at the moment... following the comments and pics for sure! Here's how Deyan described it to me:

"Blue is for the control grid, red is for the plate. In the case of 6S8S the tube should line up so that the wires don't cross each other. The wires are longer to accommodate crossing as there are other tubes with the caps reversed. Best solution is to look inside the tube and see where each cap is connected, you only need to locate the plate and the grid will become obvious."

I've also run into an issue where my adapters, if I were to jam them in, would knock into the WE 300B tubes, so I think I have to get specific adapters for the HA-300B now.

The G is Grid, Grid is centre most pin. Plate is the outer. I miswired again for the second time a few days back .. it simply doesnt work and caused me no issues short term.

 

[Wes S]

It never ceases to amaze me, how much a rectifier roll changes the sound. I rolled out my full quad of Sicte 22DE4's and rolled in a quad of Japanese Grey/Copper Plate 22DE4's and the sound went from thick and full, to airy and open.

Got to love being able to come at the sound from 3 different angles with driver, power, and rectifier.

 

[Wes S]

I am liking your comment because the blue / red grid / plate thing is stumping me at the moment... following the comments and pics for sure! Here's how Deyan described it to me:

"Blue is for the control grid, red is for the plate. In the case of 6S8S the tube should line up so that the wires don't cross each other. The wires are longer to accommodate crossing as there are other tubes with the caps reversed. Best solution is to look inside the tube and see where each cap is connected, you only need to locate the plate and the grid will become obvious."

I've also run into an issue where my adapters, if I were to jam them in, would knock into the WE 300B tubes, so I think I have to get specific adapters for the HA-300B now.

The adapters (ebay Mrs. X and @Deyan) I use rotate, so they can fit next to the 300B's.

 

[Deyan]

I am liking your comment because the blue / red grid / plate thing is stumping me at the moment... following the comments and pics for sure! Here's how Deyan described it to me:

"Blue is for the control grid, red is for the plate. In the case of 6S8S the tube should line up so that the wires don't cross each other. The wires are longer to accommodate crossing as there are other tubes with the caps reversed. Best solution is to look inside the tube and see where each cap is connected, you only need to locate the plate and the grid will become obvious."

I've also run into an issue where my adapters, if I were to jam them in, would knock into the WE 300B tubes, so I think I have to get specific adapters for the HA-300B now.

Your adapters can rotate as well.

 

[bigjako]

Thanks both of you, I had no idea the adapters could rotate. My mind is blown and my wallet thanks you!

 

[Deyan]

Thanks both of you, I had no idea the adapters could rotate. My mind is blown and my wallet thanks you!

Happy to be of service.

 

[Wes S]

After finally rolling through all my driver and rectifier combos now with the WE300B, I have found the one for me.

Power - WE300B
Driver - GEC VR135 Welded Plates
Rectifier - Japanese Grey/Copper Plate 22DE4

Truly a magical experience.

 

[trollbearpig]

So I plugged in the mullard whites and deyans adapter and within an hour this happened. The volume knob I noticed was very easy to turn and lost the normal clicky sensation and it just pulled right out. Wtfudge happened, afraid to turn my amp back on. This is what I get for trusting tubes on ebay and doing science experiments with my amp D:

 

[jamato8]

So I plugged in the mullard whites and deyans adapter and within an hour this happened. The volume knob I noticed was very easy to turn and lost the normal clicky sensation and it just pulled right out. Wtfudge happened, afraid to turn my amp back on. This is what I get for trusting tubes on ebay and doing science experiments with my amp D:

The set screw loosened up. No big deal. Just set the volume control where it should be and tighten up the set screw.

 

[trollbearpig]

Okay, thank god, panicking over here D": I thought the inside fried or something. How do I know where the volume knob was and what is the 'set' screw? Can I just turn the volume rod all the way to the left and insert it again at the 0 position, or as close as I can approximate it I guess

 

[jamato8]

Okay, thank god, panicking over here D": I thought the inside fried or something. How do I know where the volume knob was and what is the 'set' screw? Can I just turn the volume rod all the way to the left and insert it again at the 0 position, or as close as I can approximate it I guess

Just turn the volume control to the left, then set the knob on it where it should be and tighten the set screw. It is very easy. A tube isn't going to do something to a volume control and what you have there is just a mechanical connection and nothing more. Simple fix.